I have an incoming Rudall & Rose, no. 5035, with a patent head joint. The barrel has a crack and I believe the patent head joint is also probably cracked, so I am wondering if this is a difficult time consuming repair for a flute maker, and if any one on this forum has had a patent head crack repaired, how much did it cost roughly? I realise the cost can vary depending on if the mechanism has also been damaged.
Certainly not in your area, but Jon C. in California has opened up a few, and he has some detail of a repair on his Facebook page (Jon Cornia) in a Photo album entitled “Rudall Patent Head Restoration”. He could possibly give you an estimate for what the work might cost you.
And of course, there’s an X-ray here:
http://worldtrad.org/FluteXRay3_Patent_Head_Enlarged.jpg
Kevin Krell
Jemtheflute has posted on this extensively in the past. The old search button will find it for you.
So it does. I didn’t recall if that had been on Facebook or here on C&F.
https://forums.chiffandfipple.com/t/two-rudall-patent-head-repair-questions/78724/1
Also discussed some on https://forums.chiffandfipple.com/t/rudall-rose-flute-info-needed/71738/1
in which Jon C. estimated cost of approx. $400 to repair a particular flute with PH. That was in 2010.
Edited to add reference to Terry McGee’s innards pages
http://mcgee-flutes.com/patent.html
including the R&R Patent spec
http://mcgee-flutes.com/RR_Patent_Head.htm
Aye, thanks for the info, I see now the subject has been touched upon. Seen Terry’s article. There’s a small chance are no cracks in the actual head joint, just the barrel. The auction house’s (Gorringes, Lewes, East Suffolk) condition report said no cracks around the “mouth piece area” which could mean just the embouchure or the head joint. This wasn’t a musical instrument auction, and they probably didn’t properly understand what to depict. There were no photos of the embouchure, and time was of the essence, as I saw the flute amongst other Victorian items shortly before the auction took place last Wednesday. The flute will be shipped to Saville Row, London and photographed.
Short answer - Chris Wilkes. Our esteemed mod benhall1 can vouch - a certain boxwood PH which needed significant surgery! All detailed in that old thread… 
Re: the Shoreys’ example and contrary to their description/assessment, IMO & FWIW, the crack in the barrel is potentially a worse headache than that in the head (the reverse of the situation on a normal head/barrel) because of the way the wood is mounted onto the metal tubes - once you disassemble the mechanism, the removal of the wood from the head part to mend it isn’t too bad. I would not personally like to tackle one. Chris has done quite a few.
Looks like the “Two Rudall patent head repair questions” thread http://forums.chiffandfipple.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=84621&start=0 tells all there is know. Thanks Jem, Jon, and Terry. Together with Jem’s brilliant, detailed breakdown of his own patent head repair, complete with photos I feel inspired enough to have a go myself if necessary. I used to be a car mechanic back in the day, and still work on my own car and motorbike, so it doesn’t seem too daunting if one proceeds carefully. Wonder if anyone has ever made a brand new replica patent head, prehaps isn’t any demand?
Lots of little steel screws, that are likely rusted… Lots of fun to repair! I replaced the screws with stainless ones, but I think Wilkes turns his won screws.. I have found the barrel pretty straight forward to repair, I grind off the flared end in the socket, press out the liner, bore out and re-glue, then I replace the socket with new cocus.
Good luck!
“Lots of little steel screws, that are likely rusted… Lots of fun to repair! I replaced the screws with stainless ones, but I think Wilkes turns his won screws.. I have found the barrel pretty straight forward to repair, I grind off the flared end in the socket, press out the liner, bore out and re-glue, then I replace the socket with new cocus.
Good luck!” Jon C.
Just got word from my daughter in London. Just a crack in the back of the head joint and barrel. The embouchure and front of the head joint is sound, so maybe no air loss there and no immediate need of repair. She hasn’t tested the Patent head adjuster as we don’t know which way it’s supposed to turn, and don’t want to force anything. The slots in the two screw heads in the adjuster cap look untouched, which could mean that the head hasn’t been messed about with
I think clockwise closes the slide, if I remember correctly. As you probably know, they usually get damaged from someone twisting the head and barrel… She could just try turning the crown a little and see if it moves… That is a good indication, that it hasn’t been messed with if the screws look untouched, no other way in…
“I think clockwise closes the slide, if I remember correctly. As you probably know, they usually get damaged from someone twisting the head and barrel… She could just try turning the crown a little and see if it moves… That is a good indication, that it hasn’t been messed with if the screws look untouched, no other way in…” Jon C.
Thanks for the information Jon. The flute’s packed away again now, in it’s parcel, at the tailor’s workshop which has an even temperature, and security cameras 24/7 as they have many high-faluting clients who turn up with their minders. She’ll bring the flute to Sweden at the end of this month.
Yup, looking at the cap end, anti-clockwise opens the slide, clockwise closes it. If the slide mechanism hasn’t been moved for a long time, it could be pretty seized up! When it arrives, hold the barrel firmly and operate the crown in the correct direction… if it won’t shift and gentle warming doesn’t free it, apply some penetrating oil both at the barrel/head line and within the head - pour a little in through the embouchure, then roll the head around so it flows to get into the embouchure window in the inner tube and also run it up-tube to lubricate the stopper. Of course, if that is necessary, you’ll then have to disassemble and clean and re-grease.
Even if they don’t leak, if the cracks are or become open at all, you’ll ultimately want to get them mended. If they’re just hairline, not at all open, I’d suggest pro tem supportive thread whipping - not cosmetically wonderful, but a non-damaging safety precaution while rehydrating/playing in.
“Yup, looking at the cap end, anti-clockwise opens the slide, clockwise closes it. If the slide mechanism hasn’t been moved for a long time, it could be pretty seized up! When it arrives, hold the barrel firmly and operate the crown in the correct direction… if it won’t shift and gentle warming doesn’t free it, apply some penetrating oil both at the barrel/head line and within the head - pour a little in through the embouchure, then roll the head around so it flows to get into the embouchure window in the inner tube and also run it up-tube to lubricate the stopper. Of course, if that is necessary, you’ll then have to disassemble and clean and re-grease.
Even if they don’t leak, if the cracks are or become open at all, you’ll ultimately want to get them mended. If they’re just hairline, not at all open, I’d suggest pro tem supportive thread whipping - not cosmetically wonderful, but a non-damaging safety precaution while rehydrating/playing in.” Jem
Great stuff, thanks Jem. I’ll proceed carefully with the utmost caution. If it feels out of my league then I’ll contact Chris and see if or when he has the time and inclination to have a go at the cracks.
Got the flute on Friday. The patent head functions smoothly just as it should, no problems there so far. Five of the keys are missing their purse pads and one small key is missing it’s “return” spring, so I’ll just make new pads and fix the missing spring, or enhance with a rubber band. The crack on the back of the head joint doesn’t leak, but the crack in the barrel does as it goes through the socket area. I’ve started to hydrate the flute’s body parts in it’s box, and the head joint is in a container with a piece of damp sponge. The barrel crack has now closed up. Otherwise the flute is in excellent cosmetic condition, no broken blocks or repairs no nicks, chips, or scratches. The bore looks fine undamaged. The finger holes are crisp and unworn. I don’t think this flute has been played for some years. Probably just slept in it’s box after the first owner stopped playing or died, maybe? Prehaps the flute needed new pads, but whoever owned it lost interest and never got around to it, who knows?
I wonder who purchased these Rudalls back in the day besides professional musicians. I gather flute played was a trend during the 1800’s, and many amatuer musicians amongst the middle classes and gentry took up the flute for a time.
Damn, we’re a helpful bunch!
This morning tried the rehydrated Rudall patent head joint on an Olwell Pratten keyless body and it fitted fine. No air leakages, and the flute played fine with A=440 with the head joint pulled out about 13 mm. Took it to it’s first Irish session today at the Degeberga folk meet. Shall now order clarinet pads and pad cement to get the body of the Rudall body in playing mode. Seems quicker and easier than trying to make leather purse pads, and I don’t think it’s possible to buy them?
No, you can’t buy purse pads/elastic plugs. The clarinet pads do fine, but to get optimum fit and action you may need to open their backs and trim the card or half the thickness of the felt if your flute has the shallower style keys.
Yes, there is a learning curve to making purse pads… The only time they might really be needed, if you have concave pad seats, otherwise, do what Jem says…