Maybe it’s me or I just haven’t tried hard enough, but I just can’t seem to master it.
Tried pipers grip but still struggle. Try a different maker or just keep at it?
Anyone else had the same problem?
Hi,
Don’t know if you’ve tried other whistles, or if this is your first?
I play baroque traverso - smaller holes, lighter touch, angle sideways playing - and I really struggle with the Susato low D whistle.
It seems like it doesn’t matter which ones I try. The fifth hole down always makes me impossible for me to cover. Unless I really force a pressure seal using the middle joint, I can’t seal it. I think my hands just can’t do it.
Have you tried a medium bore one? You might have better success than I have.
Hi,
Maybe its your reach, According to some tutorials, Pipers grip is a 3-2-1 on your fingers.
Your finger is divided into 3 and the first pad where you use with regular tin whistle on D is the 1 and the 3rd part is the one nearest to the knuckle.
Assuming the D low whistle the
3 of your index finger is placed on the F# hole
2 of your tallest finger is placed on the E hole
1 of your ring finger is placed on the D hole
Instead of having your hands perpendicular to the whistle it should be angled to achieve a 3-2-1 position
Also the hands should be flat not arched. But there are cases that the index and tall finger are arched and the ring finger is on flat.
I tried the grip to my Susato A, but I always end up with a 3-2-2 no matter how arched and angled my position is.
My hands can reach the ring finger hole but it has a little strain on it. Try putting an O ring on the whistle where it serves as a border for your fingers so your fingers can have a cue that this is the place where you must place it.
Also Susato has a Key-retrofit for that. You can have them repair your whistle at extra $20 for a key.
Hi,
This is a video of a guy using the Piper’s grip of Susato Low D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nca0OT5e6yI
Hope this helps ![]()
Dulcimer Bill,
First off: is it mountain or hammered dulcimer ?
Second, I’d like to say that, out of about a dozen different low-D’s I’ve played, Susato was one of the more challenging. There was one particular hole (#5 = E, I think) that I had trouble closing reliably. Everyone’s hands are different. In general, I like Susato whistles and own several.
One thing I’ve found that helps on some low whistles is using the pinkie-finger on my right hand to close the bottom hole. The reason this may help is it allows/requires a re-arrangement or re-alignment of your right hand relative to the tube.
And finally, a few questions:
-
Is this your first whistle ?
-
How long have you been playing whistles ?
welcome to the C&F Board !
trill
Thanks Angel and Trill.
Will try 3-2-1.
I’ve been playing tinwhistle about ten years. First low whistle. Kind of frustrating as I consider myself a descent whistle player. Thought about trying another low whistle, but cost is a lot different between the two. I do have a Michael Burke and thought about one of his low d’s.
I play a mountain dulcimer with a group here in Louisville and have been since 2006.
Would love to find a whistle teacher, but haven’t been able to connect with one.
Thanks all.
Dulcimer Bill, welcome to C&F.
I would enthusiastically suggest that you keep at it with the Susato and using the EZ grip (the grip formerly know as Piper’s). The EZ grip is just about the only way many hands can deal with a Susato low D. It takes time to come to grips with a low d whistle especially if you have to use a new grip. But in the end it will be well worth the effort and time that you put into it.
There is nothing wrong with the Susato design. It sounds pretty good, it is well tuned, exhibits a nice fit and finish, etc. I’ve owned the Kildare low D and played it as my main low D for several years. Folks do however, comment on a few things about that whistle.
It is a fairly free blowing whistle. It can take a lot of air. That may or may not present a hurdle to playing the whistle.
The beak is enormous compared to many other low D whistles but that rarely prohibits playing the whistle. It’s a comfort and aesthetic thing.
The BH2 hole is gigantic. Fiat 500’s frequently go missing into that hole (messes with the tuning when they do too). So it is really hard to cover. That does get in the way of playing the whistle for many people.
So are any of those issues getting in your way? Or is it something else? If those are the issues, they can be dealt with, each in their own ways.
Air usage can be moderated a bit by creative use of your lips as an embouchure.
The beak can be turned down a bit, but actually it is meant to just rest on the lower lip anyway, and nothing more.
The BH2 hole does not need to be that large. The immensity of the BH2 hole can be reduced with bee’s wax but you have to care for the tuning.
If the EZ grip is the issue, just keep at it. It will come in time. Some folks transition to the new grip quickly and others may take months or years to become comfortable with it. It is a “time in the saddle” thing. Relax when you practice. Remember, there is a reason it is called “playing”.
Yes, other whistles are an option. You mentioned Mike Burke. I play three of Mike Burke’s low D’s. They are quite nice. They do use a bit of air but not quite as much as the Susato. The beak is very comfortable. The holes are large enough but Mike makes an EZ model that is a little better for small hands. The BH2 hole on either the Burke Pro or EZ models will not swallow small cars. Mike also designed the whistle so that the bottom hole can be rotated which greatly helps with finger spacing and stretch whether you use the EZ grip or not. It’s a very good whistle.
Tony Dixon’s polymer low D whistles are also pretty nice as a first low D - offering comfortable hole sizing and spacing, reasonable air requirements and a comfortable mouthpiece. Dixon also makes a whistle head for his 3 piece delrin flute body. That flute using the whistle head as a low D has the smallest holes and closest finger spacing of all the low D’s I’ve played. It’s a bit quieter than many other low D whistles but if that’s what you need to get started it is an option you could explore.
Hope that helps.
Feadoggie
DB,
I had similar issues until just recently I acquired a Reyburn low D with the 3rd and 6th holes offset. I now can play with the finger tips, no need for the “pipers” grip at all.
Really worth looking into.
JD
Jadphoto, It’s good to hear that the Reyburn worked for you. And Dulcimer Bill has not specifically said what his problem is, merely that he is frustrated with the Susato..
Let me mention that even with offset holes, a low D is still “one size fits all”. In other words, what works for one does not necessarily work for everyone else. The ability to rotate holes makes a whistle adaptable for more hands than any fixed hole position arrangement would. Just my experience as a whistle maker and player.
Feadoggie
Sounded like he was/is having issues (struggling) with the pipers grip. Maybe I read too much into his original post.
But I agree, I would never buy an expensive, or even moderately expensive, whistle without trying it first. Especially a low D.
JD
Thanks jadphoto
Yes, I am having trouble with the pipers grip. But I also had problems with a regular whistle untill I bought a Clark Sweetone, and it was like everything kind of came together. You know, a Eureka moment!
You are absolutely right in that I don’t want to spend a small fortune on a low d and not be happy. But if I found one It wouldn’t bother me to spend several hundred dollars if it worked for me.
I’m still putting the time and effort in to my susato.
Another problem is that I may have over stretched my self on other instruments. I play in a local mountain dulcimer group here in Louisville. I consider my self a pretty good mountain dulcimer player. Also play tinwhistle and harmonica with the group as backup. Also started mandolin lessons. Recently joined another dulcimer group in Indiana and pay with them.
Whew luckily I recently retired.
I would love to add the sound of a low whistle to our groups.
You guys have given me the extra oomph to keep at it. I’m still hoping for that “eureka” whistle. Still thinking about a Burke as I have one of his regular whistles and love it. Not sure about trying a whistle and shipping it back to someone. Anyone ever done that?
Sure! There’s no harm in that. Just make sure that the maker (or seller) has a return policy before you buy it.
Burke has a 30 day return policy. You can read about it on the “Terms and Conditions” page of his website.
The Susato low D can be a real handful as a first low whistle.
Feadoggie
Thanks feadoggie. I did go to Mikes site and read where he has a thirty day return policy.
DB,
I bought my Reyburn from Doc at the Irish Flute store and he has a return/trial policy. My Reyburn was used but I think he has a Sweet Onyx low D in stock. The Onyx also offers an offset hole option and many have said it plays easily without resorting to the pipers grip. Whistle and Drum is another store that allows you to try out an instrument.
Good luck on the quest. If you can master a dulcimer anything with only 6 holes has got to be a cinch. I played in a group (The Moody Druids) and our harper doubled on dulcimer, it is such a cool instrument.
JD
Hi all
I would concur with the posts here and would not buy a Low D without trying first. I have 4 low D’s, 2 Dixon’s a DX003 and the new TB03D, Susato Kildare and Kerry Songbird. Of the 4 the easiest to play is the old Dixon DX003 (no longer made, is on the quiet side and takes quite an amount of air). The TB03D take less air is conciderably louder and the finger spacing takes some time getting use to. We have heard about the Susato. The Kerry (also no longer made) has the biggest BH2 hole of any whistle I have tried (could loose a Range Rover in it). But the holes are well finished and easy to manage, Takes quite a lot of air (more than the Susato) but the tuning is good once warmed up, has good volume and tone.
There is good advice on the forum and on the C&F main website about the Piper’s/Super EZ grip.
As a side note all whistles apart form the Kerry have been modified to take less air (more back pressure) and to bring them in tune in the lower and upper octaves.
Best of luck with your endeavours.
Hi guys, you’re thoughts on a Chieftan V3?
yikes! the c word!
Okay, I’ll bite. What’s awful about “the c word”?
Uh Oh!
The dreaded C word.
Just asking… bogman?
bogman, if you have something to say, say it!
I put a post on here for help. I found a Chieftan V3 for sale close by and I wanted some advise.
“Yikes the c word” doesnt’t help me much.
Everyone else, thanks so far for you’re input.