This morning I noticed that the O-ring seal on my Burke D had become dislodged. I was having trouble persuading it to go back into place, and then it broke.
Any of you Burke fans know what to do? Can I find a replacement easily and fit it? Where does it go, and just how do you get the damned thing in there? I’d prefer not to go through Mike, who seems very busy just now.
I always suspected that this O-ring idea might cause trouble down the road. In fact, amusingly, I think the dislodging must have happened when I showed the whistle to John Sindt at East Durham. Out of curiosity he immediately pulled the head joint apart, which I think you’re not supposed to do. I rarely play the whistle, so I only noticed the problem today.
Don’t hesitate to send it in for repairs. I sent my WBB to Mike because the little metal piece inside the tube came out. The whole process took less than 2 weeks and he wouldn’t accept anything for the repair and the whistle was all shined up.
You can get o-rings at any hardware store. You need to buy one that is smaller than the size of the tube but big enough that it can be stretch to go on the tube (this will give it a tight fit). Then use some silicon or other lube to make it easier to put the head over the tube.
On 2001-08-17 10:31, jmssmh wrote:
You need to buy one that is smaller than the size of the tube but big enough that it can be stretch to go on the tube (this will give it a tight fit). Then use some silicon or other lube to make it easier to put the head over the tube.
Thanks Joe. I take it you are saying to put the ring on the bottom (narrowest) section of the head joint and then slide it into the barrel with the ring in place, am I right?
I was trying to get it to sit against the flange inside the barrel and then insert the head joint. On reflection this seems pretty dumb. A bit like putting a condom… well, never mind. I guess I’m mechanically challenged.
Stephen, Your are correct in that you must first install the o-ring into the recess that is made for it and then gently install the tube into the o-ring. I recently instpected one of Mike’s c whistles and this is how it was done. As to where to get the o-ring I think it is best to have Mike send you one for it is very important to have the size exact.
Judging by the O-rings on the Burkes I have (Low D AL PRO and Brass C) I’d agree with Constance - You’re going to have to find a way to press the O-ring into it’s “Seat”, the groove in the headjoint that holds it in place. Only then will you be able to place the body tube into the headjoint.
Better order the part from Mike and ask him how to install it so you don’t damage the new O-ring.
BTW Steve, I’ve pulled both my “O-Ringed” Burkes apart on several occasions with no problems. If the O-ring is seated properly it shouldn’t pop out, seems you just got unlucky. Either that or John sabatoged your Burke in an effort to get you to order some Sindts
Loren
[ This Message was edited by: Loren on 2001-08-17 11:48 ]
Rubber O-rings come in standard SAE or metric sizes. Metric is standard in most of the world except the USA (for some silly reason). If it were me, I’d just e-mail Mike and ask what size he used and then pick up a few replacements at a hardware or plumbing supply store. Like condoms, be careful with your selection of lubricant as some will attack the rubber and turn it into a gooey mess Silicone is usually safe for rubber. Maybe ask Mike for his recommendation.
My O-ring displaces fairly easily, and replaces just as easily. I would NOT recommend sending the whistle back! That is a MINIMUM of 5 days whistleless, for something that can be dealt with very easily. O-rings are cheap cheap cheap and easy to get at a hardware store, bring the broken one, or Michael may be able to tell you in email what size to look for, or wait 3 days and I’ll take my oring in and figure out what size it is for you!.
Inside the bore of the main shaft is a little recessed groove. Use your narrowest finger to shift the ring so it sits in the groove all the way around. A dab of silicone or vaseline smeared on the ring lets the headpiece shift without displacing the oring.
The o-ring came out of my Burke once, but it was undamaged. I e-mailed Mike and he told me to use a pencil to push the o-ring back down the tube until it fit into its groove. The groove is hard to see, but just trust that it’s there. The o-ring will pop in when it gets there.
Later I met Mike in St. Louis and asked him what size o-rings he used (for a wide bore D). He told me but, darn it, I forgot before I could get to a hardware store. I think they are designated by a number – no. 13 or no. 15 – something like that. If anyone finds out the size, please post it. I would like to pick up a few to keep as spares.
Interesting. . .the oring isn’t rubber, it’s some plasticky thing. And if I’m not mistaken, the paper that came with my whistle stated specifically that Vaseline was appropriate for the slide betwixt head and body. I usually use cork grease, but Vaseline is so much cheaper! If anyone has any input on this, I’d appreciate.
Does anyone have that little piece of paper handy? It also mentioned cleaning with a small amount of brass cleaner. I really like my whistle shiny, so I use Brasso on it before session, about twice a week. My husband thinks I’m going to get Brasso toxicity.
In regard to wearing out the composite whistle, would cork grease/vaseline/silicone have made it last longer?
\
…And I go on, pursuing through the hours,
Another tiger, the one not found in verse.
Jorge Luis Borges
[ This Message was edited by: tyghress on 2001-08-17 13:32 ]
If the O-ring is synthetic, you’re probably safe. I know for certain that if it’s natural rubber, Valeline will eat away at it in no time… (Which is why you use KY jelly instead of Valeline when using a condom… tmi? I think so…)
O-rings may be made from synthetic compounds or natural rubber. My dad was a plumber and taught me that the synthetic ones were not as good as the natural rubber unless the O-ring was going to be exposed to any kind of oil or oil-based product. Natural rubber is much more pliable and elastic than synthetics (especially at extreme temperatures) but doesn’t hold up well when exposed to non-polar solvents (like paint thinner) or oil-based products. Thus, as Dr “Ruth” Gigglesheimer pointed out, vaseline should not be used with natural rubber. Often when fitting O-rings a bit of water is all you really need for lubrication; if the O-ring doesn’t fit when lubricated with water its probably the wrong size Pure Silcone grease and KY Jelly are safe with natural rubber. O-rings purchased at automotive stores are likely made from synthetics because of possible exposure (in use) to gasoline, oil, and other petroleum-based fluids. Many bought at plumbing supply stores will be natural rubber.
A small roll of plumbers teflon tape should be an essential in every fipplers survival kit and will more than make do until the o-ring is replaced.Hope this helps. Mike:)
Thanks for all the helpful info. I now know more about O-rings than I ever wanted! I left Mike a voicemail message, pending his answer in a month or two it’s Teflon tape and browsing in the hardware store. I still think it’s maybe not a good design idea. Wouldn’t waxed thread do the job as well and be a lot easier to replace?
In defense of the O-ring design, I think those whistle that use o-rings(Silkstones, Burkes and Susatos) have the best seal compare to any other two part whistles.
Silicone is usually safe for rubber. Maybe ask Mike for his recommendation.
Pure Silcone grease and KY Jelly are safe with natural rubber. O-rings purchased at automotive stores are likely made from synthetics because of possible exposure (in use) to gasoline, oil, and other petroleum-based fluids. Many bought at plumbing supply stores will be natural rubber.