Lark in the Morning Irish flute! ;>

I know, this issue has been broached before.

In fact, I read all the previous discussions before I went on a jaunt down to SF.

I played everything LITM had, from their $225 ‘cocuswood’ flute through several Casey Burns ‘ergonomic’ flutes (I didn’t like the tiny holes one bit, though I’m certain the flute would grow on me).

The cork on the Lark in the Morning flute was adjusted right up against the tail-end of the embouchure hole, and consequently the upper octave was very sharp. But the intonation of both octaves was reasonable. The flute spake well, though it didn’t have a lot of volume. The bore is rough and looks like it needs a good hone. Some of the finger holes have little chips here and there.

After adjusting the cork, the flute is roughly on-pitch anywhere within its two octaves.

The overall flute is a little bit sharp with the tuning slide all the way closed, but about a half inch out, the flute is in tune.

The tone is good, though it’s a little reedy and slightly dry; I suspect the wood isn’t the best conditioned.

There’s not ‘quite’ as much break as I’d like.

But you know what? For $225, it’s not a bad flute. It’s certainly no $650 flute from a respectable manufacturer, but I’d choose it over a composite, for the price.

It even came with a hard case.

Needless to say I bought the thing. I plan on giving the bore a bit of a gentle hone, and tweaking other minor things.. But while I’d not show my face in public with the flute just based on its reputation, it’s not a bad flute for playing at home. Heck, if I can tweak it to where it plays to my exact specifications, maybe I WILL play it in public.

So, all that said, and for $225-- Why do you guys hate this flute so much? Sure, it’s not high quality. Sure, it’s probably made in a pakistani sweatshop by someone who doesn’t even know what music is, but all I care about, in this case, is what I get for what I pay. (Isn’t that the proper American mentality?) ((On a side note, I’d far rather pay more cash for quality, but I didn’t even want to spend anything at all just yet!)) From the comments on here, I was expecting something that sounded like a cheap bamboo flute. How could I help but be pleasantly surprised enough to buy it? ;>

Thanks a lot, you lot made me spend money that I didn’t mean to spend! ;>

-Kysh

Actually, I revisited my LITM a while back and decided it was a blast for bombing around on (especially with its racy-looking royal-blue electrical tape on the barrel). Like you, I retuned mine and it isn’t bad at all; in fact, I’ll take it over the polymer one any day. My only advice is to watch the playing-in & overall seasoning of the thing – keep it well-humidified. I didn’t, and then the rings fell off, and hence the royal blue electrical tape. Also, (cover your eyes, Glauber) I found teflon tape to not only be helpful, but VITAL on this flute’s joints.

And you’re right, it came with a heckuva case!

Enjoy!

I do have to say I owe that flute some real gratitude – it basically got to be the guinea pig for a whole lot of (unintentional) abuse!

Day 4 of ownership.

Still satisfied. Bore needs to be oiled very badly. Once I do a bit of basic smoothing, I will.

Still think it’s a good flute. Can’t wait to get home and play it.

Cathy- As for the tennons, I actually used (hockey) stick wax. There was zero wax on the
threads when I bought the thing, but now it’s much easier to seat the joints, and it seals just fine.

I haven’t yet figured out how to remove the end cap, so I’m holding off on final adjustments to
the headjoint cork.

Thanks for the support. :> I just hope I don’t regret the purchase-- But I think the flute would
need to explode for that to occur.

-Kysh

I think most the criticism is for the flutes not being consistent enough to mail order and know what you’ll get. If you have the chance to try a few, and pick one that works best for you, then why not?
I played some really nice flutes by Ralph Sweet that the price was great, had I to buy one, I’d go to a place where they carry a few rather then mail order it, I think the same goes for Lark.
I wish we could do it with Olwell’s, Noy, McGee, Hammy, Wilkes…

You can Eilam, you just have to fly to where they live :laughing:

Loren

I asked about this flute(I think.Or something like it.) a while back,and was strongly discouraged.Now you’ve made me want it again.I like tweaking and tinkering,and it sounds like this would be a good flute to do that to.
Sigh.

I’m sorry seis – the good news is, they’re still around, and they’re still $225 :slight_smile:

But I think eilam’s got a point – if you can play one first that might be good, as actual playability may vary.

But there is one other thing I can say from my experience: if you said in your post you were looking for a beginner’s flute, people might have downed it a bit there … in fact, I found mine so totally frustrating (esp. after being a flute major in college!) I promptly turned around and spent $1300 I didn’t have on an Ormiston just so I could try to figure this stupid wooden flute thing out (that was a good investment in the end, though).

So now, two flutes later, I can safely say my $200 Lark flute has cost me about $3500 (not counting credit card finance charges!) – i.e., the $3500 I spent just so I could get the $200 one to sound OK.

Weird logic, I know – I’m an eejit! But my mail-order baby definitely wasn’t a rewarding experience to play right out of the box. It’s much more fun now, though – but shoot! For the time & money I ended up throwing at this, I could have an Olwell by now!

Ah, well, it’s all part of the journey…

Anyhoo, good luck – and if you’re really after trying one, when you’ve got a few bucks, why not? I assume you can return it if it doesn’t suit?

(Or if you’d really like, I could let you have a crack at my “Black Beast” :wink:)

cat.

P.S. Kysh – I’ll check tonight, but I think my tuning cap just pries off, cork and all, in one piece.

On mine, there’s a long screw fixed in the base of the crown. The crown is grooved and lapped with the same yellow/orange cotton (or was til I replaced it with dental floss). The cork itself is fitted with a tapped insert (and is also lapped). Thus, turning the crown causes the cork to move backwards and forwards inside the headjoint.

I made the mistake of twisting the crown off mine, little realising that in doing so I’d completely unscrewed the cork and left it in place…had to poke it out with a dowel. Anyway, the crown/cork assembly should just pull off of the headjoint… my advice would be to mark its position with a dowel first though.

hope this helps.