This was a wonderful trip and I thought I’d share some experiences/pointers for any planning a trip there for the first time. I started planning this way in advance and arranged everything before we left (actually in March for July departure). This is probably a good idea if you’re traveling during high season (July - August) as we did. The high season pros are better chance for good weather (we had great weather throughout the 17 days), everything is open and in full bloom and it stays light until about 10 pm; the only con is the crowds (which with the help of some nice innkeepers can be circumvented fairly well).
We landed and stayed in Dublin for 3 nights, picked up our car the last day, and drove as follows: Thomastown, Kilkenny 2 nights, Kinsale 2 nights, Kenmare 3 nights, Dingle 2 nights, Ennis 2 nights, Collooney, Sligo 1 night, Connemara 2 nights, flew back out of Shannon. We tried to mix up the accomodations and sampled B&B, Hidden Ireland and hotels. The B&B and Hidden Ireland I booked myself and Aer Lingus Vacations booked the hotels. Aer Lingus rightly advised to stay away from Galway because of the races and all and our experience traveling even through the area at one point bore this out in a big way. Save Galway for the fall. We found that the best value and finest way to stay were Hidden Ireland places; the B&B was also great. One of the hotels was super as it retained the charm of a B&B and the amenities of a hotel; the other two were ok and one was in a gorgeous landscape in Connemara, but these resort type hotels tend to be impersonal and I’d suggest avoiding them unless traveling with little ones. I would advise direct reconfirmations with all accomodations and car rental a week before leaving and calling ahead stop by stop when you’re there.
Airline - Aer Lingus - flights and crews were fine; the plane over was old and had no seat back TVs and tacky food; the plane back had TVs with good movies and decent food. Seats closer to the front of economy are more comfortable and we had these on the way back.
Car - Aer Lingus booked us with Dan Dooley and they were perfect. Nice efficient service at Dublin City Centre pick up and drop off at Shannon; good Ford Focus automatic, trouble free, unlimited mileage. There is a sort of AA Ireland on line on which you can plot routes and print out the routes. These were tremendously helpful and mostly accurate and well thought out.
Phones - We purchased 2 Mobal global phones that have permanent cards for use in 160 countries; they were about $100 each and come with chargers, adaptors, and billing is only for calls made, no monthly service charge. It’s about $1.50/min international and $1.25/min in country. They were perfect throughout Ireland and retained a charge much better than our usual LG phones.
Currency - This was more complicated than I’d expected, but we finally got Citibank to send some Euros to our branch for pickup and just deduct from checking. Remember that the advertised exchange rate is a wholesale bank rate and you will get a rate about .7 higher retail.
Guidebooks - We used Rick Steves and the Irish Tourist Board books. Steves is really good but misses some stuff which the Tourist Board picks up. He omitted one of our favorite sites (Jerpoint Abbey).
Climate/Clothing - We arrived in a “heat wave” - with temps in the mid 80s - no a/c and no screens in the windows which have to be left open - not a real big deal especially in light of the heat wave (100) we missed in NYC, where power was out for ten days in Astoria during 90-100 temps. Bring some rain gear, layerables, good walking/hiking (light) shoes, and coordinate oufits to avoid carrying too much. Camera is a necessity - don’t leave home without it.
THE TRIP - DUBLIN - Stayed at the fantastic Number 31 (Hidden Ireland) - a gorgeous hideaway in the city with great accomodations, breakfasts and warm helpful people. The best way to start a first trip to Ireland. We used the Hop on Hop Off City tour buses and walked to get around. Recommended - Trinity College tour with Book of Kells, Historical Walking Tour, Kilmainham Jaol, Dublin Writers Museum, Number 29 Restored Georgian Home, Guiness Warehouse (lovely lunch). Our host mapped out a scenic route to our next stop including PowersCourt Gardens and the monastic village of Glendalough, including a mountain road route to our next stop. PowersCourt Gardens are a must see; Glendalough was too crowded to appreciate. We then had our first adventure. Half way through the Wicklow Gap mountain road, we were stopped by a blazing forest fire and the ranger woefully noted that it was the only quick route - we added on about 3 hours and arrived sour pussed at our next destination.
THOMASTOWN, KILKENNY - Stayed at Ballyduff House. We were on the river and grumbling about the need to keep lights off when upon arising the next morning were transported into a fantasy world by the herds of cows under our window and the appearance of Breda, our host. She has a transforming spirit. We saw JerPointe Abbey which I thought was incredible - the degree and detail of the carvings is awesome; Steves book omits this - don’t make the same mistake. Kilkenny is a nice city where we visited the castle and cathedral, climbed the tower, and had some good pub grub. Either the friendly guests are the politest people in the world or they really appreciated my playing.
KINSALE - Perhaps our favorite town. Stayed at the Old Bank House Hotel in the largest room (the only one for the three of us) the Postmasters Suite - big well appointed comfy accomodations, wonderful cooked to order breakfast again, and managers that proactively anticipated every need and question - a delightful place. The historic walking tour (Don O’Herlihy) and Charles Fort are highly recommended. Nice shops and good grub at Jim Edwards and music at the Spaniards (pub).
KENMARE - Another Hidden Ireland, Sallyport House was truly amazing. Memorable perfect breakfasts overlooking the hills and the birds feeding just outside the window, with Irish trad playing softly in the background. Helen, our understated hostess, mapped out every day’s travels including how to perfectly avoid the buses while doing the Ring of Kerry, the Beara Peninsula (underated and just as breathtaking as the Ring), Muckross House, including a lovely and worthwhile jaunty tour. At one juncture, while my daughter and I were out of the car speaking with a group of people along the road, a cow came running, yes running down the road pulled up along side my wife’s car window and let out with a tremendous moo. Also a couple of “fancy” real good restaurants, LimeTree and Packies. I also found a music shop and bought a Susato, yep that’s right - a lovely sounding Bflat with a white plastic fipple in a black body - liked it better than the Chieftains and others there.
DINGLE - Stayed at the Dingle Skellig Resort Hotel, nice place friendly but not recommended -there are tons of children (we love em, but ours are grown) and many nice recommended B&Bs to stay at here. A mob scene, but beautiful. Nice pub grub and music everywhere here. A nice music shop wherein I played a duet with an accordianist. Tried out several whistles, including Chieftain, Overton. The owner sold us tickets to a concert in the Church and it was wonderful. Jerry O’Bierne, Tommy O’Sullivan, Rosie and Trevor Shipley, et al. Trevor was playing an Abell blackwood.
ENNIS - A note - when going from Dingle to Ennis be sure to use the Tarbert car ferry - it cuts 100 miles off the trip (going the long way up to Limerick). We stayed at the Old Ground Hotel and used Ennis as our base for touring the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren. The hotel was fine and we ate both nights in the Poets Corner pub which was terrific. We also ran into a friend and former colleague we hadn’t seen in 15 years - he was at the pub with his son and that was a delightful reunion. There is a music shop in town off O’Connell Street that has whistles including Chieftain, overton, MK, etc. You can skip the historical tour here. The Cliffs were spectacular as was the burren touring. My daughter and I ventured off trail to an unadvertised cairn that was somehow special and eerie. Ailwee Cave was also fun.
COLLOONEY, SLIGO - We stayed at Markree Castle for a night just because we felt like it. It was grand fun. The area was stunning, the castle was well a castle. The room was huge and everything squeaked. Dinner and breakfast were surprisingly good. We were surrounded by horses and cows and the sounds of clay pigeon shooting. Endless acres to walk.
RENVYLE POINT, CONEMARRA - Last stop stayed at the Renvyle House - another resort hotel. THis was in a beautiful area on the ocean replete with cows and dogs especially one hotel dog that seemed to greet us and walk with us everywhere. A beautiful setting, good food, but again the resorts can be avoided. Every area of Ireland is different and this area had its own unique breathtaking beauty. We drove to Roundstop to visit a bodhran making shop that also had many whistles that were very overpriced and not made available for playing at all. Perhaps one of the most imposing sites was the KyleMore House and Gardens and Abbey. Take heed the best was the photo op view - there is no need to spend 29 euro for a family to see the inside of the house which is mostly roped off and habituated by nuns with collection boxes (it is now a very upscale school for the rich).
Despite our joking "what is the difference between a ruin and a rubble? 10 Euro, the costs and the crowds, a magnificent vacation and experience. I did all the driving and after a day of driving up on curbs did remarkably well. I much prefer the “terrible” mountain and scenic roads to the cramped city driving (anywhere). Gas seemed to go a long way and was readily available. People generally went out of their way for us and seemed to like Americans. Compare my one road rage experience in Ireland to what generally happens here. We got momentarily lost in Sligo and an irate driver behind me honked and pulled up alongside; both windows flew open - it ended with him going out of his way to lead us to the right road (a shortcut actually) and waving us on with a fond farewell. Replay that scene here and see where it leads.
Finally, remember that people in Ireland pay no attention to road numbers, they will direct you in the direction of towns, which works out quite well.
Hope this will be helpful to someone as all of you have been to me.
Regards,
Philo
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