Advice for 1st time Irish pilgrimmage?

Whistle
1

I’m thinking of going to Ireland for the 1st time this summer to see the country, and hopefully, hear and play some music. I read some of the threads about going to Ireland on the board, and they make me want to go even more. I’ve been all over Europe, but never to the U.K. or Ireland. I’d be travelling with my wife and two little kids, ages 9 and 2 1/2. Time would be limited to 1 or 2 weeks, so I can’t go wandering all over the country; I’d prefer to stay in one city the whole time. What cities in Ireland would you recommend as having a good traditional music scene and also enough diversions to keep the wife and kids occupied? Also, does anyone know of any workshops taking place this summer studying Irish music? BTW, I play guitar, mandolin, and whistle. Any general tips on cheap airfare, lodging, etc. would also be appreciated. Irish people are encouraged to respond! Thanks in advance.

[ This Message was edited by: Bartleby on 2002-04-15 14:57 ]

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The only cheap way I’ve found to get from Los Angeles to London is via British Airways or Virgin Atlantic. Here, they are always having price wars and I usually go each spring for about $350 round trip.

Once there I have always stayed in hostels throughout Germany, Luxembourg, France, Scotland, and England. My trip to Ireland a couple of years back was stymied because, apparently, mad cows were running the country and wouldn’t allow tourists in…but the hostels there were the cheapest I’ve found. Try Independent](http://www.hostels-ireland.com/%22%3EIndependent) Holiday Hostels of Ireland for a partial listing.

For transportation you might try Bus](http://www.buseireann.ie/site/home/%22%3EBus) Eireann. By what I’ve found, the trains in Ireland have gotten too expensive for tourist travel…especially for a family.

Good luck!! I certainly envy you!!!

3

As for workshops, first of all, the most well-known, at least, is certainly the Willie Clancy week in Miltown Malbay, Co. Clare. It’s in July, I believe. I’ve never been there myself, but from what I hear it’s great. Of course, there are workshops going on all summer long, all over the country, so you have plenty of options there.

I was in Cork for about a week in late February, and I was amazed at how much music there is in the city. Every night but one I played at a great session, and the one night I didn’t play was because John Carty was giving a free concert in one of the pubs. The city, too, is lots of fun. It’s a great place to walk around in, since it is a city (the second largest in the Republic, in fact), but it’s very small, very compact. I was there looking at UCC, to which I’ve applied. I’m really looking forward to living in Cork should I be accepted.

In any case, best of luck. I’m certain you’ll have a wonderful time in Ireland. Feel free to bug me for more specific information, by the way. I don’t know a huge amount, but I do know quite a bit, and if I can help, I’d be glad to.

4

Bring a Copeland, O’Riordian, or Abell. Go to the best session in town, sit down next to the main fiddle, say “Howdy y’all” and start the Boys of Bluehill before they can respond.

Oh, and good luck! :smiley:

P.S. Be sure to report back here on your success.

5

Hi there !!

1] Don’t go to a city…find a nice town or village in the West. [Clare, Sligo, Donegal are good counties]

2] I’m told Achill Island summer school is good…quieter, less busy.

3] The best sessions at Summer Schools are almost impossible to find out about, let alone attend…often in someone’s kitchen…but the recitals would make up for that…oh and the stout tastes a lot better than it does abroad !!

4] Slip into a really laid back persona to really enjoy the experience

5] HAVE FUN


Boyd.
http://www.strathspeyinmay.com

6

I second the remark about not going to a city, but that’s just my slant on vacations. I’d prefer ambling around the country side meeting people, and from my experiences, city folk the world over tend to be too busy to chat with tourists, and country people are utterly delighted to chat you up, show you the local sites, recommend a side trip, etc. However, we will admit that the music is easier to find where there are more people.

Inexpensive isn’t my normal vacation mode, but I can vouch that meals and such are very reasonably priced, and good, clean, friendly accomodations for very little money are there for the asking.

We bought a handful of books at the local Borders, all of which had TONS of information on food, lodging, things to do and see, and such like that. This is where doing your homework comes in handy. Use a good search engine, plug in IRELAND, TOURISM, and whatever else you want, and follow the nice links. In this manner we found all sorts of interesting hi and by ways to travel. . .

Have fun. . .I’m 32 days from Ireland myself, and rumor has it that I will be cast, if not crutch, free!

7

There was a thread about this on the Mudcat forum shortly before Easter, I haven’t found it yet but if I do I’ll post the URL.

I’m a Dubliner myself, but would agree with a previous contributor’s advice to head out of the city, especially with such small children and a wife, who are presumably also entitled to enjoy at least part of the holiday. Admittedly Cork isn’t really a city, but it’s full of Corkmen, so you wouldn’t want to go there.

For the same crowd-avoidance reasons, steer clear of the big summer schools. I’ve heard good reports of the Achill shool as one where there’s time and space to do some sightseeing and pursue other interests, but getting there by public transport is a complicating factor, I imagine (buses are definitely better than trains for nearly all destinations).

Definitely stay in Bed and Breakfasts rather than hotels, they are much better value, you’re much less likely to be disappointed and you can go for most of the day on breakfast alone - check which ones offer babysitting.

By the way, as inoculation against being disappointed with Ireland generally, I would strongly recommend to anyone contemplating their first visit a book which I’m currently reading: “The truth about the Irish”, by Terry Eagleton (ISBN 1-902602-07-2). It’s a hilarious debunking of lots of myths and a more than slightly sardonic take on the state of modern Ireland, but, as pregnant as any Irish bull, it more than amply validates the myth about our way with words and sense of fun (especially at our own expense).

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I’d personally suggest Galway. There is loads, loads and loads of music, and there is enough stuff in town to keep your kids entertained. I havent heard about any irish music festival there, but there is a great art festival every summer. I suggest not to book but to shop around for B&Bs once you are over there, you will always find a B&B with an empty room, and you will get better prices.

9

I would suggest splitting your time between a city/bigger town, and the smaller town/countryside areas. Someplace like Ennis, which is not as big as Galway, but there’s still plenty to do, puts you within easy driving distance of the Burren, ferries to the Aran Islands, etc. I believe it’s possible to get a bus there from Shannon, and car rental for a few day trips during your stay wouldn’t be as expensive as renting for the entire trip.

10

My information is a bit dated. My wife and I went there on our honeymoon. Next year is our 15th anniversary, so we are considering going back.

We stayed in B&Bs the entire time and loved it. We also (for the first night) stayed at Dromoland (spelling?) Castle not too far north of Limerick.

Driving on left was an interesting experience, but not too difficult (except for going onto the left side of the median when entering a divided highway!). It was nearly impossible to make myself turn onto the wrong side of the road!

We used a B&B guide we bought in the States, then we would drive until early afternoon. Look on the map to see where we might end up by the end of the day, and then start calling around for rooms. We had no trouble getting rooms every night for reasonable rates. The food was fabulous, and almost too much. By the end of our stay, we were seeking out pubs to eat something a little smaller than the meals served at the B&Bs.

You also meet a lot of people that way. We met a lot of people who were vacationing from the continent (mostly Germany).

The Guinness is 1000x better there than here (in the US). Especially at the brewery in Dublin. For any stout drinker, it is the mecca. And after the tour you get to sample some of the nectar of the gods. It was great!

Also, I would recommend the tour at Waterford crystal. It is truely an artform which must be seen to be appreciated.

If we had to do it over again, we would not try to cover so much ground. We went from Limerick, up to Galway, then back down around the ring of Kerry, across to Cork, then to Waterford, up to Dublin and back across to Limerick. All in one week. Hey, we were kids and didn’t know any better!

It was a fantastic time. Watch for the sheep crossing the road.

There was also a lot of hitch hikers. Most people there did not have a car, so we picked up a number of people and gave them lifts. It was a great way to learn more about the local places (especially the best pubs). This was before we had discovered Irish music, so we did not even know what we were missing.

The pace was much slower there (a good thing!). Most people don’t get more than a few miles from home, so meeting someone from half way around the world is a treat for them as well. Be careful not to make too big a thing about it, as that would be rude.

Have fun!

11

I second Ennis. A lot of things there are on the net. We booked our B&B and hired cycles (rented bikes) over the internet.

12

Going in July with Seamus Kennedy. I am so excited. I did the Blarney Stone, Waterford Factory, Ring of Kerry, etc. many many moons ago. This will be totally different from Galway, Connemara, Westport in Co. Mayo, Portrush and the Antrim coast with a promise of a session somewhere every night. :roll:

13

Great to hear the north of Ireland getting a mention too, Grannymouse. It’s well worth crossing “the border” for a different kind of craic and a different kind of music as well. You won’t be disappointed with the Antrim coast, it’s very special.

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Personally I’d steer clear of Tralee, I was really disappointed with it. Killarney is very touristy, but there’s always music on somewhere, and it is lively and set in a beautiful area.

I’m very fond of Galway, and the small centre is very lively with good music, bars & resturants abound.

I’ve never been to Ennis but it’s on my list of places I must go next time I’m over there.

15

It’s somewhat tempting to suggest Lough Derg would be the place if you really intend going on a pilgrimage. Seriously though, if you consider Clare, I think you would be better off finding a place nearer the coast and drive into Ennis for trips and sight seeing rather than actually staying in the place.

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Killarney in summer season is one of the most touristy places I have ever been, with hordes of tourists walking up and down the main street all day. I came away with a less-than-positive impression.

On 2002-04-16 05:58, Peter Laban wrote:
Seriously though, if you consider Clare, I think you would be better off finding a place nearer the coast and drive into Ennis for trips and sight seeing rather than actually staying in the place.

Peter, I am curious why that is. I have been considering Ennis as a potential staying-place for any future trip to Ireland (no concrete plans though). My impression of Ennis from the time I was there, was quite positive. Couldn’t one stay in Ennis and drive to the coast for sight-seeing etc.? If not Ennis, what other places in the area are nice to stay in?

:slight_smile:
Jens

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Jens, the way I see it you are better off staying in the country and going into town for whatever you fancy rather than the other way around. Ennis is nice enough though, most of the time.

18

Thanks everyone for taking time to respond. It’s good to see a good mix of views and opinions.

Roger; thanks for the advice about the book, I don’t think I have any preconceived notions about Ireland or the Irish, so I hope I won’t be disappointed. However,I would like to meet a leprechaun or two!

Seriously, I’m glad someone mentioned the North. In the U.S. media, all we hear about Northern Ireland is about fighting, riots, etc. in Belfast and Derry. So I’d imaginge not too many tourists venture there. Has anyone been to Donegal? I’m a big Altan fan (went to see them a few weeks ago) and I’ve been reading up on Donegal on the 'Net. I read about several folk festivals in Donegal, like the Ballyshannon Folk Festival. Anybody been to this area of Ireland?

[ This Message was edited by: Bartleby on 2002-04-16 10:50 ]

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Donegal has a beautiful rugged coastline and is well worth visiting for many other reasons. Very much fiddle country. Not part of Northern Ireland BTW although it is historically part of Ulster.

http://www.oideas-gael.com/ is primarily an Irish-language school but they offer many other activities.

There’s also a Frankie Kennedy memorial summer school held in Glencolmcille I believe, and others besides I’m sure.

Oops make that winter](http://www.mad4trad.com/news029.htm%22%3Ewinter) school! Perhaps they are trying to cater to Irish nationals rather than foreign visitors!

[ This Message was edited by: StevieJ on 2002-04-16 11:07 ]

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I’ll also second Donegal, and the North as well. I’ve always felt that the North is even more beautiful, the countryside more green and lush, than the rest of the country. And while the news from Belfast is not good these days, I’ve never had any trouble traveling through Tyrone, Derry, etc. (or in Belfast either, come to think of it).

I’ve never been to Antrim, but that’s certainly on my list of places to see. The Green Glens of Antrim are calling to me!