Help Focus Ireland/GB Trip

Whistle
1

Some time ago I mentioned a “dream” family trip to Ireland and England this coming summer. Now that my daughter has gained college acceptance we are beginning to actually focus on this - perhaps our last trip together for some time (will we see her again, before marriage and all that :slight_smile: ). Unfortuneately due to a number of factors, our allotted time has dwindled from a month to two weeks or at most 17 or so days. We’re thinking of sometime in August, probably beginning to mid month (leaving end of month open for possible college orientation/prep). Is this a good time for travel to Ireland generally? My wife and I honeymooned for 3 weeks in England and Scotland in 1983, but would also like to take our daughter there. This will be our first trip to Ireland (we’re not Irish and have no contacts there). We are not organized tour people. I’ve seen some tours advertised and they seem to have us travel one day per place in a real superficial way. At the same time though, we need to make the most of our time. Possibly set up camp at a couple of lodges in choice locations to set out on day trips from. We all love history, art, cultural attractions and remains, esp. my daughter. Some Dublin, but more villages in beautiful country with ruins and artifacts aplenty, and a bit of music and pub fare for me. We’re the sort who like to walk about all day absorbing local everything, but then return to nice digs - private bathroom, dinner, spirits… Some questions.

  • Best discounted airfares don’t seem to go into effect until about 60 days prior to flight, but is it better logistically to fly from JFK to London or start in Dublin, for example? Reverse for return trip.

  • Do we drive ourselves (as we did in England and Scotland) or are there better ways to get around? ARe there particular areas that just should not be missed on this trip, and what part of the country are they in?

  • Someone (Ty?) had suggested Temple House, which looks lovely on the site; it is in County Sligo, a bit northwest? Is that a good base camp for a few days and should we perhaps pick one other base camp to set out from?

I’m not looking for you guys to be travel agents, just for some tips from your experience that may help focus me a bit more. I’ve wanted to see Ireland for some time, but it does seem a bit daunting. I think Peter had suggested seeing a couple of choice spots for several days each and then returning at later dates to see the rest. I also have to figure out how to show my daughter some “highlights” in England. I guess I’m thinking some sort of compromise between the tour fiasco (“see 8 cities in 6 days”) and just not seeing enough culturally by sitting in one country village for 8 days.

Thanks for any guidance or even a suggestion as to a reputable travel agent and whether that’s a better idea to help with a complicated trip?

Regards,

Philo

2

Phil, that was me, all right, and I can’t recommend the place highly enough! HUGE amount to do/see/hear in the Sligo area! If you want to try a southern locale, www.glenlohane.com is hosted by Desmond who knows every sightseeing stop worth visiting within a days drive of the place (Kanturk, Co. Cork).

I’m sure you’re going to have a great time, wherever you stay. If you locate something really spectacular north of Sligo, please let me know. We’re thinking of going to Donegal soon.

3

It kind of depends on your budget, health. and vigor. I’ll offer up some possibilities - for what it’s worth.

You do NOT require a car in Dublin. The city is easy to navigate via walking or public transportation or taxi. Cars are really expensive, gas is really expensive, parking in Dublin is really expensive, and it is hard to find convenient parking in Dublin. So, you might ‘post up’ somewhere in Dublin - central or near central - and be very happy.

To get to Cork, Galway, or Waterford, you might consider talking a train - great way to relax and look out. No driving pressures.

From Cork, Galway, or Waterford ‘day tripping’, you will need a car. Ring of Kerry is great for sights and shopping - Kenmare is a fabulous base; Dingle for Gaeltacht and music and shopping; Galway City has music every night somewhere, great shopping, walking around, people watching and nice base for day trip to Aran Islands (overnight) or Connemara.

There are booking services online for almost every type of accomodation and they do a good job of explaining their location. Bord Failte has great books for planning purposes - and listings for B&Bs including prices, etc. Worth getting since, with planning, you could stay a castle or castle ruins, for instance, for the same money as the one a few hundred yards away.

B&Bs hate booking 3 travelers in two rooms. They charge by the head and a ‘single’ denies them their full price.

4

Thank you guys so much - already I’m getting focused (and excited).

Philo

5

If you happen to make it up to Belfast give me a shout Phil and I’ll show you the “sights”.

6

Hi Phil you might try the North West of England which is rich in sessions especially in Manchester and Sheffield and easy to get to from Ireland.
It also has wonderful scenery, historic sites and a good public transport system to get you about.

http://www.visitenglandsnorthwest.com/

John S

7

Willie - Thanks once again for that kind offer. I’ve just ordered a million (ok, several, my family goofs on me incessantly for being such a planner)books and maps and will let you know whether we’ll be anywhere in the area; would love to meet you.

John - Thanks; I think we missed that area last time around. As I recall, we spent two days in London, then took the M5 out through Yorkshire (The Race Horse Hotel), went to the highest hill town in England, where we stayed in an inn over a bar and had a rousing evening with the bar owners and some rowdy coal miners I believe, then off to Bamburaugh on the coast, and into Scotland - Edinburgh bacame my favorite city - Inverness as a base and up into the highlands where we had a bit of adventure actually. Marvelous trip. We did the Lake District in one day which was a mistake - I could have hiked that raea for a week.

Philo

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Second what Tygress said–Temple House wonderful in every way (with the most fabulous breakfast ever). We honeymooned there–stayed a bit under a week at TH, and it was a great base for exploration. Lots to do and see in Co. Sligo and environs. Make sure to spend some time in Co. Donegal, too.
We then spent a few more days in Galway (with a day trip into Co. Clare), which was great fun, although there were many more tourists than in the Norhwest (which had very few). (This was in August, high season.)

9

Here’s a suggestion, not for places to go, but for a free tool that can help you organize all these tips and others you may come across online:

http://www.backpackit.com/

From this site you can set up a “backpack” to store all the info you have on your trip, including web links etc., and you can access it from any computer (at an internet cafe, for example) while you’re on the road.

I’ve used Backpack to help me plan and organize a few trips so far and it’s a very useful tool – especially if you’re traveling with someone who doesn’t live with you, as you can give them access to the site and they can post info there too. I’m using it right now to organize a family reunion and a trip to the Grand Canyon later this year; I even used it to store links to online reviews and reminders when I was in the process of shopping for a car recently. It’s a nice tool, and there’s no spyware or confidentiality issues; the people who run it are cool.

10

Phil;

If you’re looking at about 8 days in Ireland then I’d say try to base yourself in one area (West or South-west, or North-west). The reason for this is that travelling short distances in the more remote parts of Ireland takes a long time regardless of the mode of transport. From what you say, I think that what you are looking for can be found mostly in the West or South-west, or North-west. Although Dublin is great for music, food, pubs, culture and history, you have to consider that it’s a full day’s drive (4hrs) from the West, so unless you want to spend 2 of your 8 days in the car, you may be better off flying into Shannon (it’s possible to do this direct from the US btw) or to Cork, Kerry or Knock.

If for example, you flew into Cork you could do a night there (The Corner House on Coburg St for music) or in Kinsale, a night in Clonakilty (try for Tuesday – DeBarra’s or Thursday – Shanleys for music), nice scenic drive around West Cork for a day, Leap-Skibereen-Bantry-Glengarrif-Beara peninsula and stay in a B&B along the way or make your way into Kenmare for the night. A trip around the Ring of Kerry (again scenic) or a hike around Killarney lakes (avoid staying in Killarney tho’ ), Maker your way down to Dingle for a ‘rest’ for a couple or three nights (plenty of music – e.g. An Droichead, good food, great scenery – esp the Slea Head drive/cycle, a boat trip to Great Blasket – ferry down near Krugers pub, hiking and history (Gallerus, beehive huts etc)). If you’ve time and feel like it, take the ferry from Tarbert to Killimer and do a trip to Clare (Miltown Malbay, Doolin, The Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, and maybe stay in Ennis) before heading back to Cork (maybe via the rock of Cashel).

You could get similar advice/itinerary for the West (Clare, Galway, Mayo) or the North-West (Mayo Sligo Donegal) from people on this board once you decide where you want to visit.

B&B’s are the way to go for private bathrooms etc. although they’re not that much cheaper than hotels. The Tourist Information Offices (Bord Failte) are the first port of call in any town for good info on day trips, historical sights, accommodation and cultural events. They’re generally very good and helpful. I used my own local one on several occasions.

Flights from London Heathrow to Cork/Shannon/Kerry/Knock with Aer Lingus and Aer Arran and possibly British Midlands (all on the web) or from London Stansted with Ryan Air.

Any more specific advice just ask.

Best of luck with the planning.

Ciaran

11

Wow - thanks Ciaran. I’ll try to process all that helpful info. It’s funny, but I didn’t make the connection right off - I’ve been looking at Temple House as a potential base in Sligo without realizing that my favorite tune of the moment is actually The Templehouse Jig. I’m a little slow on the uptake, so when I say process…

Best,

Philo

12

Phil;

I’m afraid that the North-west is not my strong point but for what it’s worth: Knock airport is your most local international but you can’t fly there from Heathrow, just Luton, Stansted or Gatwick (http://www.knockairport.com/).

If you’re planning your trip for August you will be just a bit late for Scoil Acla on Achill Island and the Ballyshannon festival both around the end of July. You should check out session times/days at Shoot the Crows (AKA ‘Shoots’) in Sligo if you’re in town for a night. Check out the Dervish website to see if they’re doing any gigs.

Westport (Matt Molloys for music) isn’t too far a drive from Ballymote and if you do go down that far I’d recommend a trip down to the village of Leenaun in Connemara which is a beautiful drive. A hike up one of the many mountains in the area is a great way to view the scenery around Killary Harbour if you’re feeling fit. Also Aasleagh Falls near Leenane is worth stopping off at (this area might ring a few bells if you’ve seen the film ‘The Field’).

It’s a bit of a long slow drive up north to Gweedore in Donegal but it’s beautiful scenery also and worth the trip. Do a search on the web to see if there are any music events in the area at that time. The famine museum in Strokestown Park (County Roscommon) might be another good daytrip from Ballymore for some historical info.

It’s a great part of the country up around there. Sligo is known as Yeats Country for it’s association with the poet WB Yeats so there are probably lots of cultural events in the vicinity if you do a search. Try http://www.yeats-sligo.com/ as well.

The All-Ireland Fleadh Cheoil is in Letterkenny, County Donegal 25 to 27 August 2006 if you’re still around at that point. As festivals go it’s a bit on the big (and sometimes wild) side but might be worth checking out if you are struggling to find music. www.comhaltas.com/fleadh/eireann.htm


Best;

Ciaran

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Ciaran - We’re beginning to put some shape to this and have cut out the England portion - this will be 14 to 17 days in just Ireland, flying in from JFK, NYC. Music will be incidental, as this is mostly a graduation present for my daughter, and the music is not as important to my wife and daughter (although appreciated) as it is to me. My daughter asked “what is there to do?” She has already stated and written to me that she wants 1- castles; 2 - visit monasteries and see illuminated manuscripts and authors’ houses; 3 - cultural stuff like learning to speak Gaelic and local arts and crafts; oh, and “none of that sharing bathroom stuff.” We’d really like to spend a few days in Dublin as well. I’m really glad we cut out the England part of this; trying to get a handle on planning all that was starting to get me a bit edgy - seems like more fun now.

Phil

14

Just like my own family - yet to see the light :laughing:

OK, firstly good move on the decision to restrict yourselves to one country, you’ll save yourselves the stress of trying to fit too much in. JFK direct to Dublin is your flight sorted out. No need to bother with a London leg.

For Dublin, there’s plenty to do - again Bord Failte will give you plenty of ideas for historical and literary walking tours, Irish classes, etc. The Guinness Hops Store is a popular tour and it’s up beside Christchurch and St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Christchurch hosts a good Dublin history exhibition called Dublinia (http://www.dublinia.ie/). Jury’s inn (http://www.jurys-dublin-hotels.com/jurysinn_christchurch) across the road has fairly reasonably priced accommodation for the City centre.

Down at the other end of Dame Street is Trinity College which holds the Book of Kells - Ireland’s most viewed tourist attraction - amongst other old texts. Grafton street is good for a meander and some shopping. Nearby Temple Bar has plenty of live trad music at night and good restaurants. Check out Claddagh Records on cecilia St if you need to update your trad CD Collection.

Use Dublin as a base for visiting Glendalough monastry in Wicklow (also some nice walks) and Newgrange in Meath (the visitors centre is great -http://www.knowth.com/newgrange.htm). After that, my advice is to head West and refer to my previous mails. Galway is a good city for music (for you - esp Tigh Neachtain on Shop St.) and good shopping and strolling for the family.

Bunratty Folk Park near Shannon is good for a bit of history and covers local arts and crafts if you get down that far when using Sligo as your base (http://www.shannonheritage.com/Folk_Park.htm). You can’t really go wrong in the West coast of Ireland in August. Use the good people of Bord Failte to help you tailor your activities as you go along.

Beat of Luck.

Ciaran

15

I went to Ireland this past fall to run in the Dublin Marathon followed by a week of traveling. Based on my experience the best way to get about is to rent a car. I think someone suggested that it is a good idea to pick an area to serve as a base - and indeed that is one way to approach it. I however found it quite enjoyable to have somewhat of an unplanned trip. We chose to travel to the northern coast, we would drive and take in the sights, eat lunches at small places along the way, pick a B&B in the evening and settle in with dinner and few pints,… I guess it is all in how you want to approach it. If you think you are going to see everything - you won’t. Perhaps pick out some of the things that you feel you must see or do, try to arrange them together geographically, then just set out to try to do most of it. But most of all, relax and enjoy. Take in some music, take in some pints, and enjoy what is a most beautiful country. I can’t wait to go back.

PS If I had to list a “must see” - it would be the Giant’s Causway. Spectacular!