Boxwood Chanter, FAQ's, and pictures.

I am very curious as to the questions that most boxwood chanter owners get about care and such. I love the tone and look of thses chanters. I’d love to see pictures of your chanters, and also if I could get how easy it is to reed your chanters that’d be great. If you post, could you say what key you have, maker, reed style (bridle style), and any other thing of interest.



Sean

Hi sjcavy

I have 2 boxwood chanters (both in B) by Charles Roberts and Allan Ginsberg. Here they are (in amongst the flat herd :laughing: )

The one with the wooden top is the Roberts chanter. They get no care whatsoever :blush: just thrown in the bag/case and left there until I take the notion to play them.

Both chanters have standard reed types - copper bridles.

As to reeding them, for me that is easy - I get Jim Daily or Kenny McNicholl to do it for me.

David

My first boxw. chanter was made by Mickey Dunne…great one..Cillian O’briain design.Sold it back to Ireland when got my boxw.fullset with boxchanter ready by Bill Haneman.
well a bit small curving with pipes there and there, but its timbers nature.Just cosmetic thing doesn’ effect the sound etc.Dunne chanter stayed straigth as ruler, Haneman one slightly bend…Maybe the hardweather conditions here in Finland causes this.
These both were originally ligth colour , but I put traditional acid treatment to get it more brownish colourtone.
Set is waxed after colouring and stayed nice after it, mean that surface stand quite nice handling..fingermarks etc..
Using original reed for 3years now…

Maybe it’s the the nice full sound with “edge” …(If remember rigth,P.Keenan,McSherry,T.Duichin plays with boxchanters too)

Dunne chanter

Haneman set

Hi Mikko!

Tut tut, is that plumber’s tape I see on the tenor slide? :frowning: … soft cotton or linen thread will work better in the long run, and require fewer changes with the seasons. Once you’ve put the plumber’s tape on, you’re stuck with adding more until you strip everything off. It’s probably safe for the regulator tenons but still not what I would recommend.

I agree that the acid staining is the way to go, I always acid stain boxwood instruments now. Your set is one of the only sets I made in boxwood without acid staining. You did a great job and got a good result with the aftermarket acid staining, especially considering how difficult it is to do this after an instrument has been finished - your jewelers skills came in handy. Didn’t you gold plate the regulator keys too?

I wouldn’t recommend most folks doing this at home… :wink:

Bill

Yeeeeee, boxwood :slight_smile:

I wanted boxwood chanter, since I love the look of dark stained boxwood, brass and white mounts, but my maker advised me to go with ebony becouse of richness and harmonics. I agree now with him for his chanter. So IMHO, I think it all depends from design of chanter and which wood supports better the “virtues” of that particular type.
The plumber’s tape is truly adding and puting down circle, so mybe is the best to go back to thread.
It looks to me that keys on Mikko’s BillH set are laquered and not gold plated. I can be wrong. Best, AA :slight_smile:

Use plumber tape becouse have no other thread at the moment…usually use cotton/hemp or nylon based thread with slides

Well, all parts are goldplated and laqured with hard 2 composite stuff exept chanters keys ( at time when pic was taken..few years ago)

Now i have put abit darkgold/brownish goldplating with reg keys…colour looks better now :smiley:




This one has been waiting for my son to take up the pipes. It has been idly sitting around the house for sixteen years or so. It’s not going to happen.

I never had it reeded.

It has gone bananas too since the last time I looked at it.

Who made it? Any chance of repairing the banana effect?

Also, thanks guys for posting. I am really intrigued by boxwood chanters, and this thread is fascinating. Pipemakers, if you have anything of interest to post please do so!

Mods. if anything on here is against rules and regs please notify my. I’m trying to keep this thread legit.