Sorry if this has been covered; I did a search but couldn’t find what I was looking for…
It seems on this or the e-mail list that there was a 3M adhesive mentioned for sealing seams. Could someone post the product number? Anything better?
I have been using ‘Plumbers Goop’ but have found that in areas where the workmanship of my stitched reinforcement was inadequate, the Plumber’s Goop let go.
Thanks!
Karl
Karl,
Do you suppose a regular leather glue might work? I’ve seen it in the local leather stores around town and if I recall it said it would bond vinyl as well as leather…though I don’t know how strong it ends up being.
Are you bonding bellows? a bag? what sort of flexing or holding power are you looking for?
Brian~
Had not tried leather adhesive.
I suppose the first quality I look for is an air-tight seal. Second quality is strength. This question is primarily for bags where the force exerted on a pressurized bag has a ‘peeling’ nature to it. Plumber’s Goop is adequately strong in pure tension, but not so good when you peel it. As a result, stitching (or riveting) is manadatory.
The ideal adhesive would be strong, air tight and plyable.
Thanks!
Karl
Are you attempting to glue an airtight bag without any stitching or riveting at the seam? I’ve only plaed three like that (that I can recall) and all three had problems with coming unglued at the seams (to coin a phrase! 
) .
I’d just suggest checking around with some of the local leather and upholstry shops to see what they’d suggest. There may simply be no way to guarentee a good seal that won’t peel or split without some other added mechanical means of fastening the halves together.
Brian~
I have had very good success with the 3-M weather strip adhesive
David Daye recommends 3M FAST 5200 in red-and-white tubes
Try this site; it’s helped me in the past:
This is one of David Daye’s seam adhesive tests from his website:
http://www.daye1.com/
Thanks, I think the FAST 5200 was what I was trying to find…
Does anyone know where to get this (i.e., a marine supply store)?
Brian - my intent is to still mechanically bind the seam, but knowing it can withstand pressure and have longevity helps me be confident that the bag will not fail after a couple years.
–kb
I have found this stuff in auto parts stores.
Also be aware - this is really stinky stuff. Bond it in a well vented area.
Obviously that’s nto the same adhesive used on the Daye bags I’ve played as each had some pretty advanced seam separation. They all still played fairly well, though I wouldn’t ever put a 60# sandbag on it. Not quite sure what he’s trying to proove with that stunt anyway…
I’d imagine any decent type of adhesive used in vinyl/leather furniture construction or leatherwork would be a good candidate for what you need. Let us know how it comes on for you.
Some solvent based adhesives actually weaken vinyl. Always test scrap material for suitability before trying on your intended project.
Right Tony, which is why I suggested checking with a furniture maker beforehand - if there stuff is falling apart cause they used the wrong type of glue, I doubt very much they’d remain in business long. Check with some of the established places near you. Phone calls are free. (well…local ones anyway!)
The 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200 (Red label) is the way to go. 
It comes in a small tube (3 oz.) and caulk gun size.
I’ve had some problems with the small tubes with clumps and it being so dried out I couldn’t penetrate the seal. 
According to 3M’s customer service phone line, there is an expiration date on the tubes. If so, it is in code because I couldn’t decipher it.
David makes them up in batches and so uses the caulk tube size, but instructions say to use it all, once it’s opened. It is way more than needed for one or two bags though the ease of use may make up for the cost. I get it at my local boating supply store, but it’s also available on the web.
Here is one site: http://www.starmarinedepot.com/3M+Marine+Adhesive+Fast+Cure+Sealant+5200+10oz.html
Daye prefers marine grade vinyl and not the stuff you can buy at the local fabric store although so far I have only used the fabric store vinyl. On directions from David Daye I used three beads of sealant. This is how he told me to do it:
Glue on the fabric side. After cutting the pattern, fold it and weigh it down overnight so the seam is creased, then unfold it and glue. On the side near you put 2 beads of sealant, one about 3/8" inside the outer edge, the other about 3/4" to 7/8" inside. On the opposite side which will be folded towards you to close the seal, run the 3rd bead 1/2" in from the edge so that when it’s folded back together, that 3rd bead will land in between the two. Clamp between plywood boards with a couple 60 pound sand bags overnight.
The first three I made were a mess due to the sealant being clumpy and hard to squeeze out of the tube. So even though the large tube cost more it was worth the it due to ease of application. My first bags all eventually sprang leaks because I didn’t get a good wide seal, but not the one done using the above technique.
I have written before how much I prefer the vinyl as it takes much less pressure from an arthritic bag shoulder! 
Good luck!
Rick
David had a really bad bout of seam separation (ouch!) a couple years ago. That was before the 5200, after that he went in search of the most super-industrial-strength seam glue he could find. 5200 seems to be it. (the ‘plain’ 5200 works, according to him, but the FAST is nearly as good and doesn’t take forever and ever to dry).
I had a couple of the early ones fail (student practice sets) but this new adhesive looks like it will last WAAY longer than the vinyl itself.