hi-
im fairly new to the chiff and fipple forum but i’ve decided to join after being a part of TheSession.org for a few years. recently i’ve decided to switch from whistle to flute. i was wondering, which type of flute is better fr a beginner, a rudall or a pratten. i looked at the post on the difference between the two but it didn’t have any inf on which is better equip for new players.
cheers
rob
As a beginner, I think I can truthfully say that the distinction between Rudall and Pratten will make very little difference, if any. At this stage, you will be more concerned trying to get a sound (any sound!) from the thing.
I started on a Casey Burns folk flute, which is still to me one of the best value places to start, plus it feels and looks good. There are several other (relatively) inexpensive alternatives.
Hi irish69 - welcome to the board! There are lots of people in the know here (I’m not one of them!), so ask lots of questions.
The first thing that popped into my mind after reading your question was, “I wonder what size fingers he/she has?” That might make a bit of difference. I have long skinny things and find the Rudall flutes a bit (though not a lot) easier to play. It depends on the maker too, so my advise would be to go to a festival or local music store and play as many different types as you can. It will help a lot on the long run. If you’re in a place where neither is available, get 'hold of “Doc”, who is a regular on this board (http://irishflutestore.com/). He is a great guy, with a great shop, and might be able to help you out.
Best wishes!
ISU Trout Bum
Fun question. Lots of stuff to consider and rant about 
One of the biggest aha! things I’ve read here is that Pratten flutes get a bad rap for needing more air because something about the bore or whatever makes them very forgiving, so you can still produce a decent tone with a more relaxed embouchure. But that same relaxed embouchure can start a bad habit of floppy embouchure, then using more air flip the octave or increase volume, and then your tone goes to cr&p. I think Chas pointed this out and it echoes my experience playing Pratten style flutes. When I play a Pratten style flute now (I now play a Rudall style), I certainly don’t notice any difference in terms of air requirement, presumably because I’ve learned to focus my chops.
The low D on a Rudall style flute can be a bit tricky to sound consistently when learning.
I’ve known some flute players who don’t like the less than perfect intonation of simple system flutes; if you are this sort of musician 
then you might find the intonation of a true Rudall copy a bit distracting (flat low D, flat b, sharp cnat), but most contemporary Rudalls are closer to “in tune”. (But if you are a true blue whistleplayer you shouldn’t mind folk intonation).
Both types of flutes have their issues for a learner; I don’t think it matters as much as as ergonomics and embouchure cut, and both of these vary with makers, not so much the Rudall vs. Pratten thing.
Best, Mike
thanks for the replies guys
“I wonder what size fingers he/she has?” That might make a bit of difference.
unfortunatley i have kinda short stubby fingers
“I wonder what size fingers he/she has?” That might make a bit of difference.
i’ve been playing a classical flute that i borrowed from someone so hopefully my embrochure isnt too bad
I think in the beginning that getting a good fit for hole spacing and size is very important, but most important to me is to avoid wasting money on some of the garbage flutes that are hawked to beginners. Some of the flutes out there are so poor that even an expert can’t make music with them. There are many fine makers who offer good quality entry-level flutes. They can help you get a good fit. And there are often excellent deals in the used market around here once you determine the size you need. A beginner needs all the help he can find, and a good flute is the first step.
Go for a C&B in delrin http://www.irishflutestore.com/newsite/products.php?c1=55&c2=65
I started the change from whistle to flute 6 months ago (not that I am much good on whistle). I also have short stubby fingers and when choosing a first flute being able to make the reach and be comfortable was my main concern. If you think it may be an issue for you these discussions may be of help:
http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=52634
http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=54468
Can’t offer any advice as I am a beginner and have only played one flute - but I am very happy with my small-handed Casey Burns Folk Flute, for now…
There is a small-hand FF for sale here: http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?t=56193
I think that just about any inexpensive, well-made flute is a good starting point.
I used to worry about hand size, too - I have (for a man) fairly small hands, and started out with a standard Burns FF with no problems. But I have no problems with my other flute, a Jon C. medium-holed R & R model, either. Or, for that matter, with Pratten-type flutes I’ve had a chance to try.
I - personally - love the R & R sound (and the easy second octave) a lot, but I also love the FF’s resonance and response in the low range. Both good, both easy to play, but different.
Really, though, I don’t need two flutes. It’s just that I love them both and don’t HAVE to give one up. But I’m far from being limited by either one. I’ve been playing flute for a couple of years now and I’m still very much a beginner.
If cash is tight, you might want to consider a Tipple (though, since they are cylindrical flutes with a longer reach, you’ll probably want the ergo layout rather than in-line holes). Otherwise, you would probably be happy with any of the decent maker’s conical flutes.
And until you’ve built your skill level up the differences between various styles of flute are more theoretical than real. A skilled player, on any halfway decent flute, will sound far better than a beginner on the best flute in the world. For that matter, a skilled player with a strong personal style will sound recognizably the same even if they switch flutes.
I recently tried out Judy’s CB folk and really liked it. It was the old two piece mopane model. I have small hands and the fingerspacing was really easy. Tone production was pretty easy but I did have some bad embrochure days. The new 3 piece folk flute lookes like a sweet instrument and I think Casey has out done himself on this new design. It would definatly be lighter than a Copely delrin.
I have tried the Copely all wood and I would have to say it is a little more difficult but still an excellent flute. The fingerspacing and hole size are larger than the folk flute, especially the R2 hole is large and R3 is a bit of a stretch. It would be easier to play for a small hander if the holes were offset a little. Also, the Copely takes a little more air to fill than the folk flute but you would only notice it if you were playing them side by side.
Off couse a person’s embrochure devolopes as they progress and flutes become easier to blow as you are able to focus your airstream smaller. If you had a teacher the Copely would be somthing you could grow into a little where as the folk flute is made more for the beginner but could easily be enjoyed by the intermediate.
Hope this helps!
Nate
I would urge getting the best possible flute from a reputable maker: Seeing Doc at Irishflutestore.com is a great first step. He usually has a wide spectrum of stock to choose from at multiple price levels.
A solid flute to start with is a must to help you get the best possible sound and to help you trade up, once you know a little mroe about flutes and what you really want.
I have owned and played prattens and rudalls: I don’t find much difference in the mechanics of sound production (though I’ve played flute for over 30 years), but a lot of difference in tone.
I personally would advise someone with limited experience to start with a Rudall. I found the spacing to be much easier (I’m selling my Hamilton for that reason), especially when playing for longer periods of time. I also find Rudalls to have a sweeter sound and more focused tone. That’s not a knock on the Pratten; I like their sound too, but I found it to be an edgier sound with good cut and lot’s of depth, emphasizing the lower partials, where the Rudall emphasized the higher partials and overtones.
As a sticky says on this forum: Keep away from the eBay $150 jobs, on any irish flute with any Pakistan reference.
They have excellent use as jack handles.
Anthony
Not sure where you’re based but if you’re in the UK or Europe I would strongly recommend a Fred Rose; I’m a total beginner but I find my Rose flute very easy to blow and very forgiving and he has an excellent reputation; plus no import duties if you’re on this side of the pond.
I’m a beginning flute player and am looking at getting a better instrument than the Tony Dixon one-piece I bought a couple of weeks ago.
I found this site and was wondering if anyone has played any of his instruments:
They certainly look lovely and he does them in acetyl as well.