I will be going to Vannes in Brittany for two weeks starting Mar 7. Nayone have suggestions as to things to do, places to go, or people to see.
I have already contacted Gilles Lehart and am really looking forward to going to some Fest Noz in the Vannes region.
I spent two weeks in the Vannes region last April. Definitely catch the group Follen, they play at festou-noz in that area, and they have an excellent flute player. You’ll find all the festou-noz (the plural of fest-noz) listed in the newspaper Ouest-France, and there are usually posters around the towns.
The festou-noz were the only place I heard music, although I did drop in on a competition of bagadou (big bands of Scottish warpipes, bombardes, and drums) in Pontivy, in central Brittany. My ears still haven’t recovered from that.
Other non-musical things you shouldn’t miss: take the ferry to the Isle aux Moines in the Golfe de Morbihan, it is a gorgeous and enchanting island with a big Celtic cross at one end and a dolmen at the other, and a lovely little chapel with model ships hanging from the ceiling (typical in coastal Brittany where the fishermen go to pray before heading out to sea). Vannes itself is lovely, although it’s very crowded and full of traffic…finding a parking space can take a while. Drive down to the presqu’ile de Rhuys and go to the excellent bakery at St.-Armel, you’ll find the region’s best gochtial (the Vannetais spelling for the traditional brioche-like bread that’s made all over Britanny) and other breads and cakes. Walk along the cliffs at St.-Gilda (also on the presqu’ile de Rhuys). Stop in Sarzeau in the morning for the outdoor market, where you can buy fresh fish and langoustines.
Okay, I’m starting to sound like a tourist magazine. You’ll have a great time. If you can go north to Pont-Aven, that’s also worth a visit…very beautiful old town with canals and bridges, a rich art history (Gaugin and many others painted there), and the most picturesque public toilets I’ve ever seen:
(No, they don’t empty directly into the river, although I’m sure they used to)
Couple more notes: the closest Coop Breizh (record store where you can get traditional Breton CDs) is in Lorient. It’s closed on Mondays, as are many other shops. I can’t think of any other reason to go to Lorient at that time of year…the city didn’t impress me very much.
Pretty much all businesses (except restaurants) shut down every day between noon and 2pm, a very civilized habit that I wish we would adopt in North America, I think everyone would be more relaxed.
[ This Message was edited by: bradhurley on 2003-02-19 09:41 ]
A trip around the bay is a fine idea, but keep your hands in the boat when it goes past the oyster beds. I still carry a good scar from the time I was a small child and was whacked in the head and tossed right across the boat by a collision with an oyster pole. It is my souvenire from the Gulf of Morbihan. We used to spend summers camping at Quiberon and often visited Vannes.
Hello !
There are many festoù-noz in that period, don’t miss the Festival in St Laurent-Sur-Oust the 9th of March. It’s about 30 minutes driving from Vannes.
I will be playing with Jean Charles Guichen (guitar) and David Pasquet (bombard) 2 former members of the legendary breton band Ar Re Yaouank…There will be many bands, the festival starts in the afternoon.
If you want information about breton music and concerts and fest noz in the area of Vannes or everywhere in Brittany, check this website : http://www.tamm-kreiz.com/
Sylvain
See you there, Sylvain!
Nearly missed this one! Good thinking I read the thread… Ouest-France sucks : with their multiple local culture pages, they don’t announce anything but narrowly local (like my Guérande peninsula…).
Pol
Yeah, I shouldn’t have said you can find ALL the festou-noz listed in Ouest-France, although they did manage to list all the ones that were happening near Vannes while I was there. One can also check http://www.fest-noz.net/ but the listings there were even less complete when I checked last year. If you go to one fest-noz there are usually announcements there about other stuff coming up, that’s another good way to find out what’s going on.
Cquick and all, make sure to draw some C&F ooo ooo logo on a white cap in such gatherings!
Hey, is there any fex-noz events that will take place on 15th or 16th of March? I’ll be in Paris on the 14th.
thanks!
For Parisian Festou-Noz check some of the sites and publications suggested above. Also check with Mission Breton and Bagad Keriz which are two active Breton music associations in Paris. My first fest-noz was in Clichy after a concours hosted by Bagad Keriz. I don’t remember the fest-noz group but the music was great and the dancing was endless. Playing in front of the hotel de ville for the mayor the next morning was pretty rough.
Kenavo!
Aaron
[ This Message was edited by: AaronMalcomb on 2003-02-24 11:07 ]