Interesting stuff. Pat O. did say once to put a tiny bit of cork grease right on the endgrain of the tenon if I was going to play a long time. (this on blackwood though not boxwood.)
Is there an echo in here? 
Didja get my email, dude? I never know which address is the correct one…
Loren
Well, I did hear back from Peter and he suggested that I could always send it back to him and he would take care of any problems. He also suggested that a good clarinet repair person would be able to help as this is apparently an occasional problem with that instrument. In leu of both of these he said I could take a little off the cork with 200 grit paper or the fine side of an emory board; but to be sure that there is no wood on wood rubbing going on (“look for shiney spots”). He didn’t mention anything about whether the bore of this instrument is sealed or not. It looks to me (and I’m a very experienced woodworker) that it probably is. I’m certain that the outside is sealed and reasonably sure the bore is as well. In my furnature making experience sealing only one side of a piece of wood is asking for trouble.
So, my assessment of the situation is this: I’m quite sure there is no wood on wood rubbing, the tenon is not out of round, and the cork is clean and without residue build-up. I’ve got lots of 220 grit paper.
I cut a small strip of 220 a little smaller than the width of the cork and took off a bit of cork till the flute slid together perfectly (I greased it up each time I tried it). I gave the flute a rest for a few days to make sure I didn’t take too much off and make it loose when it was in its non-plump mode. Next step is to oil and give it a good workout and see if things tighten up too much again …then tweek with the 220 if necessary.
Loren, I think the point you made before about NOT oiling the heck out of boxwood makes sense. My inclination is to keep to my usual oiling schedule of every couple of weeks or so.
Clark
PS: As we have starting talking about the cork grease issue again I have a question. I have some cork grease that I got in London some years ago that I LOVE. It is redish and quite soft and slippery. It does not dry out as like other brands I have tried. It seems in fact to never get completely dry and cake up or solidify. It came in a small square plastic container. Now the problem is this …I decanted this into the grease pot which is part of one of my flute cases. So I don’t know the brand anymore and I’m running low! Does this ring a bell with anyone?
Just wanted to add, this for blackwood again though - after cleaning off my tenon inside and out, the fit is really really tight (the hj won’t fit more than 1/4" without cork grease).
I think this might be from over-humidifying, and will remove the humidifier for a bit. Surprisingly the dial only reads 65% which I thought was right, but that has likely come down from a higher humidity.
Being from a sailing and horsey family, I’m just a waterproofing kind of gal – so I generally smear a very, very wee bit of cork grease or swipe the dreaded wax block over tenon ends before playing, too …
And, when oiling the flute, I was also told not to forget the ends of the tenons AND the insides of the socket sleeves (aka those ridges where the flute gets thicker) – so I make sure to smear a bit of oil around there when oiling, too.
I also pay extra attention to the edges of the blowhole, as well as open toneholes, FWIW – I don’t know about you, but I get moisture from those, too during a long session or gig.
My pinkie with a bit of oil on it works fine as an applicator.
My general rule is: if, after playing a while, I notice a surface is damp, then that means it needs a little waterproofing – i.e., it should be oiled at least occasionally.
(except the slide, of course – if that’s damp I’ve got a whole 'nother issue!)