The Serpent's Tale-- a review

Aaaaaaccck! Jessie! I’m not rejecting anything! The tube diameters of my G whistle and G flute are different, but so are the ratios between the distances from fingerholes to center of the “blade” area! Further, riddle me this: I made a copper G flute using 1/2" ID Type L tubing, that is drilled precisely the same as my 5/8" ID glass flute. They play identically! Do you begin to see why I’m confused?

My D whistle is the same (inside) diameter as the D flute, and the difference in wall thickness is negligible.

Good heavens! I’m truly sorry I didn’t immediately say “thanks, Jessie”, but I was struggling with the math, trying to measure stuff on my whistles and flutes, and generally just trying to understand! Please don’t think I’m ungrateful for the help! The calculator is much easier to use than the flute formulas I got elsewhere on the Web, and I am very, very thankful for it, indeed!

Look at it this way - I hear what you say, and understand that you want to help. Only thing is, my measurements don’t 100 percent bear out the information, and I’m trying to comprehend why that might be, not pick a fight with you because the info doesn’t jive!

If you want to drop out, I can’t stop you, but I wish you wouldn’t leave with a bad taste in your mouth on account of my lack of understanding. I learn new stuff every day, and am properly thankful for the opportunity. I am a slow learner in some aspects of this business, and every bit of help I get from everyone, is digested, stored away, and pulled out when needed either for testing, or for real-time use. Your contribution to that store is very, very much appreciated!

Best wishes,
Bill Whedon

Oh man!
looks like it’s time to consult the 8 ball..

Okay Bill, er…

First off, Jessie does know something about flutes, having learned how to make them during a visit with Dave Copley (maker of VERY fine woodenflutes) - search the archives for photos etc. She’s also visited the shops of and talked shop with a number of top makers, including none other than Patrick Olwell. Jessie has in fact made some very nice wooden and bamboo flutes herself. Just an FYI.

Okay, The fact is, there are lots of whistles that have cavities in the fipple plug, and it does affect the tuning…but not in the way you might imagine. And, filling in that cavity doesn’t automatically throw everything out of whack, which along your lines of thinking it would.

There’s really too much here to get into. My advice to you, and I mean this in a helpful way, no sarcasm intended: You should A) Buy more whistles - it’s sounds like you haven’t seen enough different designs yet, and B) Hit the books and bone up on your flute/whistle acoustics - it really does sound like you’re flying blind.

Loren
P.S. Oh yeah, and C) Try not to piss off those who know more than you (not like I follow my own advice on this one but hey…), which of course means getting to know the players around here before taking an argumentative tone with folks who are trying to help…and I ain’t talkin’ bout me.

On 2002-09-19 20:20, Loren wrote:
Okay Bill, er…

First off, Jessie does know something about flutes, having learned how to make them during a visit with Dave Copley (maker of VERY fine woodenflutes) - search the archives for photos etc. She’s also visited the shops of and talked shop with a number of top makers, including none other than Patrick Olwell. Jessie has in fact made some very nice wooden and bamboo flutes herself. Just an FYI.

Excellent information. Actually, I never doubted that Jessie was coming from a position of knowledge.

Okay, The fact is, there are lots of whistles that have cavities in the fipple plug, and it does affect the tuning…but not in the way you might imagine. And, filling in that cavity doesn’t automatically throw everything out of whack, which along your lines of thinking it would.

Actually, Loren, I have no “line of thinking” yet, just some lines of questions. I didn’t think a recess in the fipple would throw things out of whack, but wondered what the effect might be on a couple of factors, i.e. fingerhole placement, and high-octave to low-octave temper. I based my questions about this on the flutes and whistles in my possession. I have two glass Hall flutes, a G and a D, one Boehm system “Cadet” which, I believe, is from Selmer/Bundy, an old grenadilla wood French system flute of indeterminate origin, and an antique wood piccolo that my Mom gave me, also with no maker’s name. In whistles, I have two black Clarkes, a D and a C, about five Clarke Megs in C, a Sweetone, and one plastic-mouthpiece, nickel whistle with the brand name illegible. I also have several that I’ve made, and an old Chinese D. The differences between the positioning of fingerholes to “blade” is, in a word, confusing. I am not, as Jessie seems to have inferred, questioning the absolute placement or diameter of the fingerholes, but the ratio of placement with respect to the “blade” area, which seems to differ a bit from instrument to instrument, and definitely differs in the flutes, from the placement ratios of same in the whistles I own and have made.

There’s really too much here to get into. My advice to you, and I mean this in a helpful way, no sarcasm intended: You should A) Buy more whistles - it’s sounds like you haven’t seen enough different designs yet, and B) Hit the books and bone up on your flute/whistle acoustics - it really does sound like you’re flying blind.

Well, not entirely blind, though I’ll readily admit that I don’t own a bunch of different sorts of whistles. As to hitting the books, well, the reason I’m asking questions here, is that I can’t find the answers to this particular line of questions in any of the books or online guides - just the practical results of the differences I see. I thought someone here might have a ready-to-hand explanation. If not, that’s cool, too, and I’ll just go ahead and experiment. What’s it gonna cost me? .. a few bits of tubing and a few hours, and if I come up with something good, well, it’ll be time and materials well spent. Otherwise, it’ll be a valuable part of my learning process. Positive results, either way!

Loren
P.S. Oh yeah, and C) Try not to piss off those who know more than you (not like I follow my own advice on this one but hey…), which of course means getting to know the players around here before taking an argumentative tone with folks who are trying to help…and I ain’t talkin’ bout me.

I honest-to-gosh didn’t mean to seem argumentative with Jessie. My argument is with myself, and what I was trying, possibly not too well, judging by the reaction, to do, was to see if she had some information that would somehow magically square the differences I have measured, between the flutes and the whistles! From another perspective, of course, she could easily have simply said “I don’t know why you get different answers, go look it up in a physics text”, and not gotten pissed off, especially given that I’m not questioning her expertise. Shoot, I’ve been programming computers for about 30 years, and I will readily admit that there is still a pretty good-sized library of knowledge about that art/craft, that I don’t personally possess, and to which I will send anyone who asks me a question to which I don’t have a ready answer.

Bottom line, what I said to Jessie was not in any way disagreeing with her. All I did was to lay out the facts as I have seen and measured them, and asked for an explanation for the differences. I didn’t expect her to have an answer; I merely hoped she would! Hey, I know it flies in the face of theory, to one extent or another. But now, the differences still exist, I still have no answer, and now Jessie threw up her hands and stomped off, apparently thinking I was picking a fight with her.
(… sigh…)
Bill Whedon

she could easily have simply said “I don’t know why you get different answers, go look it up in a physics text”

But I DO know. It’s because the tubes have different diameters.

Okay, I’m with Jessie at this point: No use trying to help you - You say you want to learn but it seems you only want the answers you want to hear, rather than listening and thinking about what’s being offered…Your cup is already full I’m afraid.

You’re on your own dude.

Loren

(Shaking head) … okay. Neither one of you is going to actually read what I wrote and try to explain what I’m seeing, without taking it as some kind of personal attack. Fine. I can live with that. You are the weakest links. Goodbye, Loren and Jessie, and thank you for playing.

Now, I know that there are some people out there who have actually read the scenario, and might be able to shed some light on the problem I’m having. To sum it up, there seems to be a bit of an anomaly between the calcs for flutes, versus those for whistles. The anomaly is not huge, but it does appear to exist. The easiest way to understand it is to understand that I have a low D flute that’s the same length as my low D whistle, but the finger holes on the flute are closer together - enough so that I can play the flute with the first-joint finger pads, versus the necessity to use “bagpipe” fingerings on the whistle.
The tubes are the same internal diameter.
The wall thicknesses are 0.035 for the whistle, and 0.037 for the flute, measured with a digital micrometer. Somehow, I doubt that 0.002" difference is significant.

Any ideas? Could it have to do with that 7/8" recess on the upwind side of the flute?

Reason I want to know, is simple - the flute seems to be better-tempered between upper and lower octaves. If that recess might have the same effect on the whistle (along with getting the fingerhole positions more playable), then I would like to try building a whistle with a recess in the fipple. I don’t want to waste my time on it if it would have no or negligible effect. Loren tells me there are whistles with recesses already. Do they temper better?

Finally, this - Some folks have beaten up on me for asking technical questions - “taking from the board”, without so much as a thought for my motives. Gang, I am trying to increase my knowledge to help me build better whistles. If I build better whistles, my customers benefit from it. Some of my customers are from this board. So, tell me again - how is what I’m doing here a Bad Thing? The only thing some of you seem willing or able to give is rote, impatience, and criticism. Whom does that help?

So, if there are any whistle or flute makers out there who know the answer to my question, I’d really like to get that information. If not, well, I’ll just go do some empirical testing and see for myself. Just trying to short-circuit if possible (wheel reinvention avoidance).

Thanks, cheers,
Bill Whedon

Were the holes on the whistle different sizes from the holes on the flute?

I have a low D flute that’s the same length as my low D whistle, but the finger holes on the flute are closer together…

The tubes are the same internal diameter.

The wall thicknesses are 0.035 for the whistle, and 0.037 for the flute, measured with a digital micrometer. Somehow, I doubt that 0.002" difference is significant.

Any ideas? Could it have to do with that 7/8" recess on the upwind side of the flute?

As Jessie writes, the size of the finger holes has a big incluence on the pitch of the tones. In general, bigger holes need to be further apart.

You might want to repeat your question on the flute forum, where such notables as Dave Copley sometimes hangs out.

Cheers,
Jens

Bill,is it possible to put some pictures up of the flute and whistle side by side?It might help to clear things up. Peace,Mike

On 2002-09-20 02:10, JessieK wrote:
Were the holes on the whistle different sizes from the holes on the flute?

I’m not in a place right now where I can measure them, but I remember them as being fairly close in size. I will measure and photograph them over the weekend, as I have other photos I need to take, as well, and will post the pictures and info on Sunday night.

OT: You do wonderful jewelry, Jessie! I am most impressed! And you’ve chosen a great place to live, as well. My family lived in Woodstock, just outside of Zena (50 Van De Bogart Rd) from 1978 - 1983. I was a participant in the “Giant Pot Bust in Woodstock”, detailed in the Kingston Daily Freeman. A bunch of us potters got together and built a giant pot in a field, and fired it in situ. Somebody roofed over the flame ports on the kiln, turning it into a Really Big Blowtorch, and the bottom of the pot melted in the kiln, causing it to crack apart. The pieces, some fused into the firebrick of the kiln, were displayed, laid out on the floor of the Woodstock Guild, for quite a while. I’ve sometimes wondered what became of the thing.

Anyhow, thanks for jumping back in. I’ll have more info on Sunday.
Cheers,
Bill Whedon

On 2002-09-20 04:45, mike.r wrote:
Bill,is it possible to put some pictures up of the flute and whistle side by side?It might help to clear things up. Peace,Mike

Hi, Mike. Yep, as I told Jessie, I will post piccies on Sunday night. At 1AM today, I grabbed all the bits and looked them over, and have some theories as a result of same. If the Sunday night confab doesn’t answer all the questions, I’ll first hit the flute forum as suggested by Jens, and if no joy there, will simply build a whistle to try the ideas out. Actually, I’m gettin’ the impression that I shoulda done that in the first place! I think I’ve spent more time on the board with this, than building a model would’ve taken! :slight_smile: Still, I’m notable as a dummy…
Cheers,
Bill Whedon

On 2002-09-20 04:26, Jens_Hoppe wrote:

I have a low D flute that’s the same length as my low D whistle, but the finger holes on the flute are closer together…
(etc.)

As Jessie writes, the size of the finger holes has a big incluence on the pitch of the tones. In general, bigger holes need to be further apart.

You might want to repeat your question on the flute forum, where such notables as Dave Copley sometimes hangs out.

Cheers,
Jens

Hi, Jens! As I told Mike and Jessie, I’ll be posting pictures on Sunday.

One thing about hole size versus spacing - I am measuring the center-to-center distance of the fingerholes. This is different on the flutes from the whistles, which is the real confusion factor for me. I know that enlarging the holes will sharp the tone of them, given that the center stays in the same place. I occasionally have to do that with the odd whistle. Anyhow, the pictures should clear up the mystery somewhat – I hope! :slight_smile:
Cheers,
Bill Whedon

Bill,

I strongly suggest you either pop down to your local library and check out this book or pick it up here

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1884365086/qid=1032529743/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-0708472-8392905?v=glance&s=books

It will explain everything you’ve asked about and also why the placement of fingerholes and size will differ between the same diameter flute (sideblown) and whistle. Just ask someone here who has a Dixon flute with a whistle head and a flute head to measure the distance between the blow hole on the flute and the first finger hole and the fipple window and first finger hole when tuned. The air going into a flute has a different airflowwaveform than a whistle. If the air is moving differently it results in different tones for a given length of pipe.

Other things you will notice (making the life of a whistlemaker interesting) is that the width, length, angle of ramp, undercutting etc. of the fipple window all affect tuning (another reason Mchaffies were doomed.) The size of the fingerholes matter but so does the angle they are cut, thicknes, how smooth they are cut, undercutting, beveling, and shape also have an impact.

Loren has a very good point about the amount of whistles you need to have to experiment with. I’ve been making whistles for sale locally for a number of years (Mack’s the only board member who has one, but Loren should :slight_smile: ) I dissected a dozen or more cheap whistles to get an idea of the variables involved and I mean dissected, cut appart at different angles. Contacted a number of whistle makers over the years (thanks Dale) and read everything I could. If you want to make great whistles you gotta do the hoemwork. You can drill random holes and copy existing whistlesflutes to your hearts content but that will only get you so far.


Saying all this I do have to give you a high five for having the cajones to try to get your whistles out there. I am content with local sales and have no intention of ever trying to make it into a business, I’ve seen to many try and bomb here. Plus the idea that if I did I’d never keep up with demand. Loren’s been waiting 3 years for one (mainly because I keep forgetting) Hang in there, do the legwork and homework and stick to it. Don’t ever consider it a “job” that you have to do but do it out of the love of doing it. It’s a musical instrument you’re making, not a kitchen cabinet.

Sorry to jump in and ramble and I hope I didn’t just confusee things more.

Jessie, it’s good to have you back and it’s a real treat to see you and Loren on the same thread and smiling! Keep it up and don’t run of again, either of you :slight_smile:

Mark V.

MarkV, thanks tons for the reference! I have just gone to Amazon and bought it!

To Jessie, Loren, and everyone else who have been trying to help – Thank you all – I will now await my book’s arrival, read the thing, learn as much as this old head will hold, and return to tell you, it is to be hoped, that I have found the answers I sought, and what they are.

Oh, I also promise no further questions about this particular subject until I’ve done my homework! Ain’t it great??!

And yes, I humbly acknowledge that’s what you have all been telling me all along. And like the eedjit I sometimes (often??) am, I’ve been trying to find the Magic Short-Cut with the usual rate of 0% success…

(sigh… is nothing ever easy a it looks?..)

Cheers! :smiley:
Bill Whedon

Bill - FWIW, if you are using a Hall Crystal flute as a standard, you will notice that the fingerholes are raised slightly from the body. This creates a chimmey at the tonehole, which from what I’ve gathered from this forum and the woodenflutelist, does have an effect on tuning and hole placement. So even if your I.D. is the same, another variable has been introduced.
Digging out some books may help shorten your learning curve, but it sounds like you’ll enjoy experimenting in the shop more! :slight_smile:

P.S. This post is worth exactly what you paid for it! :laughing: Best of luck to you!

On 2002-09-20 10:36, DanD wrote:
Bill - FWIW, if you are using a Hall Crystal flute as a standard, you will notice that the fingerholes are raised slightly from the body. This creates a chimmey at the tonehole, which from what I’ve gathered from this forum and the woodenflutelist, does have an effect on tuning and hole placement. So even if your I.D. is the same, another variable has been introduced.
Digging out some books may help shorten your learning curve, but it sounds like you’ll enjoy experimenting in the shop more! > :slight_smile:

P.S. This post is worth exactly what you paid for it! > :laughing: > Best of luck to you!

Aaaaaaaaccck! That’s it! The Magickal effect that makes the Hall body behave like a thicker piece of material! And I missed it! :frowning: Gods, what a dumbass I am! Since the “thickness” causes the pitch to flatten, you can move the center of the fingerhole up closer to the blowhole!

DanD, thank you more than you know! Now, I’ll read the book to find out the other little nuances and “touches” I can make, to get things just the way they should be!

Cheers, :slight_smile:
Bill Whedon

Damn, I wish I had thought of that!

On 2002-09-20 11:36, JessieK wrote:
Damn, I wish I had thought of that!

… a lesson I’ll bet neither of us will forget for quite some time! :astonished:

Hey, ask your buds at the Guild whether any of 'em remember Laughing Dragon Pottery, down in Tinker Alley! If so, you can rightfully call 'em “old-timer”, courtesy of me! :smiley:

Cheers,
Bill