Hi,
I am writing because I have in mind to order an 8-key D flute (not soon, maybe in some months) but nowadays it is not so common among flutemakers. In my case, because of the traditional music I play I will use the C# key a lot.
My idea is a wooden flute and keys in the 19th century style (for aesthetic taste) and to avoid a long waiting list or prices higher than about 3.000-3.500 euros.
The sound of the Steffen Gabriel flutes seemed very good in the videos (particularly the wide bore model), but I haven’t found many references from players about what these flutes are like. Any comments on this? Any other recommendations: Geert Lejeune, …?
Cheers,
Andrés
Hi Andrés,
take a look to DoneDeal, Brass and wind in Ireland.
There is a Rudall & Rose from 1827 .Think about this. I myself have a Rudall,Carte from about 1880, has been in DoneDeal too, 7 years ago : best flute ever. Occasionally there are refurbished old flutes , even here in the forum. Look for Jem Hammond ( unfortunately it’s Brexit UK now ) or H. Hammilton aka Cornelius Ward,that’s Ireland. They do great jobs on old flutes.
The odie- flutes can be top, and you avoid a long waiting time. And new 8-keyers are pretty expensive.
Steffen Gabriel is top too. I own a keyless : its a copy of my Rudall, Carte, I think: heads and bodies are interchangeable and play top. But the oldy is superior.
Keep well,
Herbert
A few modern makers are creating 8-key flutes, but 6-key flutes are more common. Wait times can be lengthy, and you will more sooner find a used one.
Then there is the price. Is anyone making an 8-key flute today for under $4,000? Adding C/C# foot keys is an expensive add-on.
For those reasons, I’ve sought out and played a number of 8-key 19th C antiques, both American and English. Good American flutes when renovated or in good shape can be found for $2,000 or so. English flutes, maybe in the same range unless they have the Rudall name on them in which case they’ll be $3,000 or more. That is still MUCH less than a modern flute. You need to determine whether the flute plays reasonably at A440, if that’s a requirement.
Are you seeking a loud, session flute, or can you live with a quieter, normal flute?
There is a much greater demand for flutes with large holes and loud voices, so you can usually find a better deal on smaller, rudall-style flutes.
You can certainly get under your budget with an antique 8-key. With modern makers, your best bets for reasonable prices are likely the Steffen Gabriel or a Breton maker. One U.S. flutemaker, Dave Copley, comes close in cost, but not after VAT/import tax. I’d think that a Boehm-like foot key setup could conceivably cost less than the traditional look you might prefer.
I recommend Steffen Gabriel. Despite his young age, the man knows a thing or two about flutemaking - and playing! I have played several of his wide-bore Rudall style flutes (don’t own one yet). Beautiful craftsmanship, easy to fill from bottom to top, great dynamics and sound, spot-on tuning. What more can you expect? Recommended.
Lehart doesn’t make 8-keyers, and Lesouef and Morvan no longer make them. The only Breton maker I know that still makes them is Pol Jezequel, and I expect the cost to be beyond 3500€. In France, Sébastien Villoing makes 8-keyers that fit Andrés’ budget, but his website has been down for a while so I don’t know if he’s still making flutes. Does anyone know? 
From what I’ve observed, an 8-keyer is typically 800-1000 €/$ more expensive than a 6-keyer. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of makers in the 3000-3500€/$ price range nowadays, it is rather in the 4000-4500 €/$ bracket. To give some perspective, an 8-key Morvan cost 3600€ in 2012; in 2022, a 6-key Morvan costs 3900€ and as I said he no longer makes 8-keyers. Morvan’s flutes are on the pricey side, but it gives an idea of the trend…
Antiques can be a great option, as others have pointed out, but intonation may not be as good as modern flutes optimized for A=440 (especially when using modern fingerings), and the foot keys might or might not work well. Buying a flute with foot keys that don’t operate reliably would defeat the purpose of buying an 8-key flute!
I’m not sure about that. I know for a fact that John Gallagher charges significantly more for a Boehm foot joint, and as far as I know Steffen Gabriel charges the same (or at least he did when I asked him a couple of years ago).
I haven’t seen a boehm-style footjoint from John Gallagher, but the last time I discussed pricing with him, the normal old school C-foot was an extra $1200 USD, and a 6-key flute was $3000. His prices may have risen, as that was at least a couple years ago (on the other hand the price was the same from ~2009 to 2017, so…)
Thank you very much for all your comments and recommendations,
I am from Spain but I am currently living in the UK and will be here for more than a year. I would have no problem buying in an EU country as well as in the UK.
I prefer a loud flute, also for playing for myself even if I am only an amateur. I like flutes with great resonance.
From your comments I understand that my estimated budget is low for a new one. I have considered buying an antique flute but I am more concerned about buying it without having played it first, as many are playable at 440 but not so enjoyable (leaving aside their historical value or the interest in playing these instruments). I haven’t ruled it out either. In fact, I have a flute from the second half of the 19th century with all the typical problems associated (high pitch, flat foot, G and A sharps, restored crack in the barrel, low volume). Unmarked, the craftsmanship is very similar to some Metzlers. I bought it for a first exploration of the use of the keys knowing that it was not a good flute, and not an expensive flute either.
Prices from 2020: $4400 for an 8-key flute with the traditional foot joint, $5400 with a Boehm foot joint.
Wow, I’m surprised, but haven’t seen his implementation. If you have a more complete version of his pricing (as of 2020 or beyond), I’d appreciate receiving a listing.
I’d like to second that advice. Traditional C# and C pewter cup foot keys are a weak point in the design (IMO). They have to fit and work perfectly to get those notes.
I have a modern (Aebi) recreation of an 8-key Rudall flute that I bought used, with traditional pewter cups on the foot. The C# works but the C key doesn’t sound at all. The pewter cup is very slightly misaligned with the metal hole so it doesn’t seal completely. Looks like the lever arm was very slightly bent at some point before I bought it.
I haven’t bothered to have it repaired because I don’t currently play any tunes that require the low C. The C# is something I need for a few tunes. A repair that involves bending or otherwise tweaking that pewter cup to fit is going to be more expensive that a simple pad replacement like the other keys.
My other modern 8-key flute (a Noy Nicholson) was also bought used, and both foot keys work fine. They use salt spoon-style cups and pads like the other keys on the flute, which I feel is a better, or at least more reliable way to design the foot keys even if it doesn’t look traditional. If I ever bought another 8-key flute I’d be looking for that style of key and cup/pad on the foot, limiting the choice to modern makers instead of antiques.
As has already been mentioned, there are some hybrid 8 key flutes that utilized the Boehm foot mechanism. I have a post and axle ´dealer´s´ flute approximately 140 years old. Oddly enough, it appears to have been optimised to about A=435 hz so has relatively excellent intonation. Keep looking, you never know what you´ll find.
Bob
You should consider speaking with Jay Ham. He makes a Rudall pattern 8 key flute capable of producing excellent volume, his work is extraordinary and he is great to work with—very good customer service. HIs foot joint is a work of art.
Thanks! Is that with a case?
No, the case was on top of that ($180 for a Northwind case).
Here are a few photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjAfCts . He apparently completely redesigned his Boehm foot joint to make this one, so this is his latest design. Tested and approved by Ivan Goff 
I don’t have a complete price list, unfortunately. I only asked about 8-key flutes as that was what I was interested in.
It’s interesting makers moving away from 8 keys back to only 6…I really like having the low C and C# keys myself. I have a Dave Copley 8 key delrin flute, and the C# speaks easily but I still struggle a bit with the low C, especially if it’s a faster tune. Obviously, it was modern key pads not pewter low keys. In contrast, my Firth and Pond circa 1860 has pewter plugs and both the low C and C# speak quickly and perfectly…they’re wonderful to use.
I’m getting the Olwell restored Wylde that was on the Irish Flute Store page today, and Blayne said it’s low pewter plug keys also spoke effortlessly…I’ll know more after the Postman drops by.
My only point being don’t count out pewter keys on an antique flute working flawlessly.
Eric
Congrats on the Wylde…
Having played a variety of antique 8-keyed flutes (and specifically the FP you have), I agree that the performance of low C/C# varies but can be very good. C# is often decent, even though the C is fluffy. I believe that this problem can be fixed by a competent & knowledgeable repair person, but working with getting the low C pewter pads working takes extra experience.
My favorite R&R is in like-new condition after getting cleaned & re-padded. The low C is very strong, once I achieved good embouchure control.
These are some of the issues you might face when you can’t get a good low C.
Pewter plug not sealing. Some recommend a drop of oil, but that “shouldn’t” be necessary - certainly not on your FP, nor on my good flutes. Pewter can be corroded/dirty, pewter can be out-of-round, pads might not align exactly right. I think Jon Cornia is putting the effort into learning how to replace the pewter pads, and that is going the extra mile that may be needed.
The C key touch needs to keep the C# key depressed so that both pads are sealing. I understand that this is fussy to get right.
Small leaks anywhere in the flute impact the low C more than other notes. Jay Ham worked on a boxwood 1-key flute of mine and persisted until he found all the small leaks. Check out Jon Cornia’s frustration videos on FB, as he tries to find a sneaky leak.
Fingers need to stay sealed as you reach for the low C. I suspect my other favorite R&R with larger finger holes has some small leaks or my finger pads don’t quite seal that makes the low C a little more difficult.
Embouchure control for the lowest notes is different or more difficult than the mid-range notes. This could be due to the embouchure cut or flute bore or resonance. It could be your own airstream. I have found that exercising and developing my embouchure in the 3rd register greatly improves my lowest notes.
Andre I’d suggest buying the eight-key Rudall & Rose flute now on done deal.ie that is for sale. It’s a good price, and the seller is knowledgable and trustworthy. Also Ireland, like Spain, is a member of the European Union, so no problems with import duties, tax etc.
Sorry, just looked, and it’s been sold I see now. Ok, well they do turn up now and then, and they are usually very fine flutes, especially after a repad. I play one as my main flute and I’m very happy with it.
There is a really nice sounding 8 key Alexander Liddle flute for sale over on the Irish Flute Marketplace on Facebook. Selling from Dublin.
Eric