In my continual search for that one better whistle, I am considering Copeland’s silver D. It would be quite an investment so I’m looking for any feedback I can get. Purity of tone is most important to me. I don’t like chiff or air. Responsiveness is a close second. I am fairly content with my Burke D Aluminum, but thinking that the slightly thicker siver wall will improve tone more than the Copeland Nickel would, and not be quite as heavy as the Copeland Brass or take as long to warm up. Anyone have or tried one? Thanks all.
How a Copeland plays has little to do with material (I like silver, too, though). I hear that current Copelands are very good. My best whistle is a brass Copeland C, but I have played some that weren’t like it. Mike is certainly capable of creating an excellent whistle. You can include voicing requests with your order. Good luck.
patrick at the irish flute store has one for sale now at $ 400, its one that he has used for years from the write up, he would be a good person to ask, also at $ 400 it would be a good price and no waiting time, as all the Copeland sterling silver options are by special order, he’s a chiff user and a very nice and experienced player, you could go to his web site or Pm him ( doc jones )
I agree with JessieK, machine made whistles are very consistent. Considering the state of 21st Century machining this should be a slam-dunk.
I once owned a hand-made Copeland, was dissatisfied, returned it to the maker with my concerns. They couldnt be corrected and I wound up giving it away.
Would never do that with a Kerry whistle.
edited to add missing period at the end of slam-dunk
I’ve played several silver Copelands. They have all seemed a bit sweeter and wonderfuller than the brass or nickel ones.
I’d imagine it’s more do to voicing than material. Maybe one subconsciously takes more care when voicing a $400 + instrument.
Hard to say.
Doc
Disclaimer:
Doc Jones is a semi-professional purveyor of tooters and may be biased by greed, avarice and capitalism in general. Or, it may be that he just really, really likes Copeland whistles…I mean he always has one and it’s usually the one he grabs when he’s performing in front of hundreds of crazed fans. But I digress, please be advised that anything he says about Copeland whistles is likely sullied by the two aforementioned points.
Warning:
Playing Copeland whistles may not get you crazed fans or cause you to have thirteen children. But then, if your wife really likes Copeland whistles…
Playing $400 whistles may cause irresversible disdain for $8 whistles.
Copeland makes whistles in many other keys and materials and none of them cost $8. Read the prospectus carefully and consult your financial advisor before trying a Copeland.
May be habit forming.
This message should not be used as a flotation device.
I own a silver D Copeland and it’s my favorite. But I wouldn’t consider the tone pure. It’s very rich and complex in the lower octave, requires considerable assertiveness in the second octave. It’s louder than my others, so I don’t play it in a group setting unless I’m the only whistle and it’s a time I really want to be heard.
Responsive, yes. Pure, no. Chiffy? Not in the same way as a Shaw or a Clarke. But a little bit, yes.
FWIW, a piper friend who is a much better player than I am prefers my silver Copland to his brass one. I like the weight and feel of it. Mine is one of the earlier ones. Come visit and you can try it!
Since the material used is immaterial, you might invest the time to find a way to get your requirements in front of a favorite maker and work with them to get the whistle you are looking for. Or they may guide you to whistles that are available for purchase or for trying out, etc.
If you are going to step up from a Burke, do some research before you buy. Unless you have a lot of money to toss around. Burke’s are very respectable and dependable whistles. So the step up should really be based on the voice and playing characteristics you prefer - not based on a name or dollar amount.
I would advise finding a way (if possible) to try Copelands in different materials. Then try an Overton, a Reyburn, a Thin Weasel if you can find one - that’s my list. The maker of Busman whistles was taught by Glenn Schultz (of Thin Weasel fame) so you might try one, though I haven’t had the pleasure yet. Then look around for other names people swear by and try them as well.
You can spend a lot of money on whistles you may not keep if you buy whistles because you want one, instead of buying a whistle that you’ve tried and want. Make sense?
And if you just have to buy a whistle because you need to buy one, make it a Freeman Tweaked Bb Generation. That will keep you well satisfied and occupied for a reasonable price. Then lay out the big bucks when you’ve found the whistle you really want.
‘I have a silver copeland D that I bought here, in fact.
I guess it’s a great whistle–I just played it in an acoustic
jam, not ITM, much, but everything else. The thing is
wonderful. What a sound! But it’s a beast–it can be shrill at the top
of the second octave, it squawks if I overblow, must
be careful. It’s the real thing, warts and all,
lovely.’
I had a nickel copeland D that was fine but this is better,
sweeter, purer sound. I reckon at that price Mike and Jim
do finish these with special care, and I think that silver
has it’s own sound, too.
Just wanted to be sure I was addressing your concerns.
As Jennie was saying, this has the flutey sound of copelands,
the conical bore does it’s thing. You might wish to check
the copeland sound if you haven’t already. May not
be what you want. Above all the whistle is powerful
and beautiful sounding, but it’s its own thing. I don’t
think it’s terribly high on the ‘purity’ scale.
Jon Sindt is making silver whistles with delrin heads, he
has told me. In fact I have one. That’s pure, alrighty,
and responsive.
When I play mine in a session, someone will always come and tell me it’s an amazing sound. The lower octave is to die for. The upper, at least the upper part of the upper, only happens if I’m really “on.”
'Course, I only play the silver Copeland in a session if I’m having an amazing evening. If I’m trying to blend in, or if my fingers are too cold and fumbly, I play my Burke or Sindt.
The people who have told me they like this whistle are ITM diehards, usually. Folks who prefer the others are those I live and play in close range with, i.e. family members and music partners. It is not an all-occasion instrument. But when the occasion presents itself, I love it.
P.S. You’re right, I’ve only had it for a couple of years. I didn’t really know real ITM from the sheet music until I joined C&F (check the date). But if there’s anyone coming through town who plays Irish and doesn’t come find me, I’ll be extremely disappointed!
You’d still have another great week of salmon fishing if you came now.
Great responses, all. Much thanks.
Doc Jones - You’re a toot! And yes, the cost may well lead to suspenders.
Wanderer - Sounds like you were self employed as a computer consultant. I hope things have improved for you since 2000.
Jennie - Getting closer to feedback. Thanks. Any chiff to me is nearly anathema. I love the sound of tone or notes without the audible sound of air or rasp. I guess I’m rather in search of the chiffless whistle. I expect the weight and feel of silver to be better than the brass. Thanks for the invitation to visit. Unfortunately, it would be cheaper just to buy one.
Jim McGuire - I agree that the great thing about most whistle makers is that they listen and work with you, but it’s not possible that the material is immaterial since it is the instrument itself. If that were true, you should be able to get a nice tone out of cardboard.
dfernandez77 - I’ve tried a poorly voiced brass Copeland and I’ve heard that nickel can be a little shrill, although silver may be also. As far as wood whisles go, I’ve tried Abell and Fred Rose and decided that wood is just not for me. In general, they both had a fair amount of chiff, and were not really consistent in tone over their range. But both were undeniable beauties to behold.
Jim Stone - It’s probably the shrillness in the upper register I’m most concerned about.
