Repairing a flute.

Irish Flute
1

I recently acquired a gorgeous Prattenesque flute. It is a exceptionally good player, but has some minor (i.e. cosmetical) issues I’d like to iron out. The flute plays fine and doesn’t need any structural alterations, so I’d rather break it in than sending it out again.

The tenons have silver rings to strengthen them, but the ring on the lower tenon is missing. The remaining wood is quite thin, and I’d like to apply a new ring. Must not be silver or even metal, but it should support the tenon. Any hints?

The pewter plug for C seems to leak a wee bit. The C is playable and sounds immediatly, but it’s a bit weak and airy. If I press the plug onto the hole, C sounds better. C# works great without any pressure applied.

The tenons are currently holding some kind of artificial cork lappings. The maker doesn’t use them anymore today since most bore oils corrode the cork…so I want to replace the corks with a thread lapping. Any ideas how to remove the cork lapping without harming the flute? I’m a bit chicken-hearted to touch the tenons with a cardboard cutter…
Any comments regarding the threading? I planned to use polyester thread which I pull through a ball of wax, but any other ideas are appreciated.

What is your preferred method to clean sterling silver keys? They obviously can’t take a silver cleaning bath.

Is it safe to remove the foot joint keys? They have the usual old pewter plug arrangement, but seem quite difficult to adjust, so I’d rather let them uncleaned than risk the low notes.

The surface around the embouchure shows some discoloration in the blackwood. Not a real bad thing, but are there methods to get it back to pitch black? I already applied some (commercial synthetic) oil, but apparently it wasn’t enough.

And does anyone know a good source for padding material to replace the key pads, ideally in europe or even Germany? The keys are made in the typical Pratten style, i.e. with quite flat key cups, not saltspoons.

And finally a tip for flutes with loose tuning slides: if the slide is just a bit loose but both tubes are still in contact, try to apply “La Tromba” cork/slide grease. It’s quite a bit stickier than many other greases and is a good alternative to having new tubes fit.

Thanks in advance for hints!

(edited, when I drove home from work I realized a serious error in the last line…)

2

one small suggestion. There are silver polishing cloths,
basically a jeweler’s cloth, that almost instantly
brighten silver keys.

Personally I’ve taken the bottom keys off an 8-key
and put them back on, without making any difference
to how they function.

3

Thanks for the tips. I just found such a cloth beside the best silver amd it works amazingly.

4

When I re-padded my german flute I used synthetic pads from https://www.windcraft.co.uk/, they are a but thick but I reduced the thickness using emery boards and buffing pads for finger nails; they also stock oboe & clarinet pads etc.

5

Yep, I use clarinet pads from Windcraft - if they’re too thick, you have to thin the felt down - see Terry McGee’s advice on this. There must be a German equivalent supplier…

You won’t hurt the keys polishing them with “metal wadding” if the tarnish is too stubborn for the silver cloth, but don’t get the fluid from it on the pads - serious cleaning/polishing is best done while the pads are out of the keys before re-padding. The thread lapping issue has been dealt with on the forum before, so you should be able to find advice, and some makers also cover it on their websites. As for getting the old cork off, just scrape away at it gently with something like a flat, flexible bladed table knife - the sort that usually have bone handles, not the chunky modern sort. They aren’t too sharp to risk damaging the wood underneath. When you’ve got all or most of the cork off, you should be able to clean up with acetone.

Don’t worry about the adjustment of the “grasshopper” keys on the foot - simply taking them off and putting them back cannot affect that - you’d have to forcefully bend them to do so! If the pewter plug is leaking, it might be fixed by a good clean as for the keys (try that first), but if it is developing an indentation where it seats on the receiving plate, that can cause a leak or make it stick shut. I have cured such problems by taking the key off and very carefully rubbing around the chamfer of the plug with smooth steel - it’s harder than the pewter and, with firm pressure, will reshape it very slightly without rubbing it away (don’t file it!). When you remount the key, hold it closed and give the back of the plug a light tap with a block of wood, turn it a bit and repeat - don’t hit it too hard or you’ll just make a new ring indentation! - to seat it. Then suck-test it to see if it seals. NOTE: this is just something I have tried and found to work - I’ve never seen any written advice on this point from any of the makers and I don’t know what they would suggest - or whether they’d be horrified by my suggestion - hopefully one or more of them will respond here! Obviously greasing or oiling pewter plugs hoping that will help them seal is not a good idea - it’s more likely to make them stick. (It could also potentially cause electrolytic erosion between the plug and the silver receiving plate if they are kept in contact by being stuck or by the keys being pressed when the flute is stored in its case.)

6

Can any of the forum oil experts speak up as to whether or not almond oil (pharmacutical grade) will corrode cork lappings? I’d be interested. I always do my best not to get any on the cork anyway, but I’d imagine when I’m doing the wood part of the tenon that goes beyond the cork that a little seeps onto the edges, even though I get in thin there and not running. I’ve found that the edge of a very lightly oil-dampened Q-tip does pretty well.

7

Corin, I think that the oil can breakdown the glue that holds the cork lapping, depending on which type of glue, of course. Best not to soak it with any oils.

8

Unless you are power tool handy this may frighten some of you but I use a soft cotton round on my buffing wheel to remove old cork.

Seems the least intrusive over scrapping with a sharp tool and will also take off the old glue.

Leaves a nearly a “as new” surface.

You have to be very careful not to over heat the wood!

Wear eye protection and do keep a steady hand or you’ll have a expensive wooden missile! :smiley:

9

I cleaned the metal parts and got the low C to work quite good by cleaning the seat for the plug. It’s still not perfect, but I can live with it for now.

Here’s a bad photo (might take better ones and add them to the lichen thread later):

10

Nice!

Send it to me and I’ll seat those foot keys for you!

:smiley:

Who made it?

11

It was made by Tom Aebi in 2001 if I remember correctly. It’s the old Pratten model he discontinued in favor of the Rudalls. He also revised his Pratten model and offers it again now, but it’s quite a bit different. I get a better sound from the older model, but it’s just me…

12

cool! that are some HUGE holes…phew!
happy playing
berti

13

And those keys are shiny!!! :laughing:

Glad my flute found a good home…