questions on bellows and chanter inlet pipe

Can anyone improve my knowledge of pipes by answering the following,somewhat unrelated questions? Firstly,are stitched bellows much better than pinned,or are pinned perfectly adequate? Secondly- what difference(if any) does the style of inlet pipe have on the way that the pipes are physically played? Or is it just a matter of taste or aesthetics? Anyone would think I was contemplating buying a set… :slight_smile:

[ This Message was edited by: kevin m. on 2003-01-21 16:51 ]

Hi Tony,
You know you’re going to do it :slight_smile:
I don’t know whether pinned bellows are better or worse than stiched but someone pointed out recently, Uilliam, I think, that either way you get a lot of holes in the leather, I think He said that they could be glued but I’m not sure, I’d have to look for his post. Regarding the outlet pipe, do you mean the pipe on the bellows? or are you referring to the inlet pipe on the top of the chanter, ie some go in through the side and some at the very top?

Cheers, Mac

Hi Mac,I was referring to the INLET pipe on the chanter (doh!)

Hi Kevin,
About the chanter tops, I think it’s probably down to preference, much like the bellows. The pinned bellows and angled top seem to be the most common, Davy Stephenson offers both styles as I’m sure other makers do. You could always e-mail him and ask his opinion. You have to get a set, life’s too simple without them :laughing:

Cheers, Mac

[ This Message was edited by: MacEachain on 2003-01-21 17:12 ]

Kevin,
I’ve made “pinned” bellows using silicone sealant and heavy duty staples. The silicone helps keep the unit airtight. The bellows I use on my smallpies are over a year old and show no signs of leaking.

The pros and cons of pinned vs. stitched bellows essentially boils down to aesthetics and cost. They each function the same and efficiency and functionality is not lost with either design. Stitched tends to be quite a bit more expensive due to added labor and “fiddle factor”. So essentially it comes down to your wallet and personal preference. I make both and I can tell you that stitched bellows are a royal pain the the behind to manufacture!

There is, again, little funtional differences between the two types of chanter inlets. The bag neck “end location” (somewhere out in that space in front of you) where it will attach to the chanter should only vary by an inch or so in any direction..this should NOT effect your playing or comfort level in any discernable way.

Personally I prefer the “swan neck” inlet. I think it’s more attractive.

Cheers,
DB

Thanks for your input Mac.,and your opinions Davey.Nice to hear from you Jim,seems like you made a good job of those bellows-Hows the piping coming on? I wondered if the type of inlet pipe would have any affect on playing comfort- I suppose swan-neck is more traditional,It looks like it does come down to aesthetics- unless anyone knows different! :slight_smile: Hmm, I may have to consult my wallet! :laughing:

Kevin, it’s mostly what you get used to.
If you are average height/weight you’ll be OK.
Expect to go thru small changes in posture and comfort when changing from a practice set to a halfset and from a half set to a fullset.

Question;
How do I keep the air supply from the bellows to the bag from kinking and closing up. I would think that careful attention to posture bag holding and such but that a bit much for a newbie. The practice set I am using came with a rolled leather pipe that was stored for some time and has a kink. Is there some way to work the leather to soften it. (there are about 3 rolls)
I have made a temporary vinyl pipe and by rolling and gluing and tying in place.
Should I find a clear Plastic tube the correct size and cover that.
Suggestions would be appreciated.

I suggest you put a short piece of flexable tubing inside the leather if you want to keep the traditional look. Otherwise, replace it with thin wall automotive hose.

I used the soft kind before and don’t like’em, not even the clear/yellowish stuff that feels like surgical tubing. I use a black, reinforced, radiator hose made for cars..5/8" if I remember right (get at any automotive supply store). Very inexpensive and helps hold the bag over where it should be.

3/4" hose from a auto repair shop will have you sorted out nicely. It allows the air to flow a LOT easier and also when cut to the right length holds the regs in the right position for you.

Patrick.

The thing to keep in mind… Wizzer is using a practice set.

Patrick…yes, exactly - 3/4" ID. I finally went and measured it to be sure. Also, be sure and tie off both ends so it doesn’t slide (assuming you have a wooden piece that inserts into each end of the hose).

Just getting the info out there :slight_smile:

PD.

Thanks for the Info. I will get some tubbing tomorrow.