The cork in my CBFF moves too easily - when I swab the inside of the head joint I have to be careful not to touch the cork because it offers no resistance. Is there any way to tighten it without making a new cork?
Thanks for any ideas …
I edited this since I remembered your cork probably isn’t cork, but wood, as Casey Burns uses from what I’ve seen on his flutes, so you will probably have to wrap it with something to make it larger, like thread, as he does, and then re-grease it when putting it back in.
Usually, if it’s real cork, you can just throw it into boiling water for a short time, and it will expand it enough again to fit.
If all else fails, have some wine, and save the cork for your flute.
Thanks, we had a bottle last night, but like most new wines it had a screwtop (or is that only an Australian phenomenon?).
PS Thanks Barry, I pulled the “cork” out and it was just as you said. A few turns of thread and it is snug and stable again.
Good, Bill, glad to hear you can swab without worry again! No, we have those metal capped wines too, but many still use cork. Then there are the two screw top classics here, Thunderbird and Mad Dog 20 20!
I think the last Australian wine I had also had a cork, called Black Opal.
Sometimes you can get some free used corks if you ask at restaurants that serve wine too. Personally, I like the idea of having real cork in my flutes-it just seems to be the ideal material that can compress or expand when the wood moves. It just seems safer to me than a wood or Delrin cork, which some makers use. But I imagine if it were a real problem, they wouldn’t use those materials.
Email Casey Burns.
Do email Casey, but let me add this: hard to beat a piece of teflon tape as the last wrap. It seals, it slides freely, it’s sanitary. Cheers,
Rob
Hi-I own a Folk Flute as well (and love it by the way). I’d recommend speaking with Casey himself about this, to make sure that you get the most accurate care instructions for his instruments.
The way I understand his instructions, is that he doesn’t rec’d the use of Teflon with his flutes. If a tenon or “cork” in the headjoint become loose, to add some thread or waxed dental floss in a pinch. I’d contact him or take a look at the care instructions, b/c he does rec’d a specific type of thread. Best of luck.
~Sean
A tenon is a different story. I’m not opposed to using it there in the right circumstances, but it will wreck cork. The potential problem with the stuff is that it’s possible to apply too much and yet still be able to force the parts together, thanks to the slipperiness. That said, there’s nothing inherent in teflon tape that would make it a worse choice than thread, if correctly applied. In fact, thread of the wrong type will absorb moisture, potentially swelling which could be dangerous on an unlined head.
In the interest of full disclosure, my Olwell Rudall in boxwood, which has an unlined head, has a couple of turns of teflon tape around the (natural) cork. Cheers,
Rob
Hi Rob-
Didn’t mean to put you in a position where you felt the need to defend yourself. Sorry about that. I’ve seen many people use Teflon with great results. Just wanted to point out my understanding about this maker’s guidelines. Take care.
~Sean
Having read Casey’s flute care instructions, I personally feel he’s a bit pedantic about tenon joints (according to him, we cork guys are both lazy and ignorant). He also fails to mention the potential pitfalls of thread use, like tenon deformation or bore constriction. Either way, I’m not personally offended ().
Rob
I use thread primarily because I do not like using cork. The problem I have with cork is what happens when I send a flute from the dry climate I keep in my workshop to an even drrier or wetter climate. It simply becomes out of adjustment and if on the tight side it risks cracking the socket. With thread one can easily add or remove some out in the field as necessary.
Tenon compression has never been an issue on my flutes.
The use of Teflon Tape on my flutes violates any warranty, period. My problem with teflon tape is that while a joint may feel good an snug with it, it may in reality then be too tight, resulting in a cracked socket. There is nothing to adding a few turns of dental floss or fine thread to tighten a joint - all it requires is someone trying it for the first time and they will quickly get the hang of it.
Casey
Thanks for commenting Casey. I knew we’d get accurate care instructions for your flutes. I think the confusion stems from different makers having different recommendations. When in doubt, always contact that flute’s maker 
Chris Wilkes is also vehemently anti-cork. While I see the value of being able to add or remove thread as needed, I personally never warmed to the stuff. I left the thread on my Wilkes in deference to the maker, and maybe that’s the best way to go all 'round, especially where a warranty is concerned.
Still, regarding the use of teflon tape, it has its place in the toolkit. When the cork went loose on my little Olwell Rudall, I never once contemplated thread, preferring to judiciously apply the teflon tape as mentioned before. That’s been ages ago now, and the seal between cork and bore is lovely, tight as it needs to be while still responding to a gentle shove. No cracks so far, knock on boxwood. It’s worth noting that Patrick himself has no aversion to the stuff as such.
In evaluating its use in woodwinds, the same principle should apply to teflon tape as to all other materials: before using anything to repair an instrument, familiarize yourself with the properties of the material in question, learn how to use it properly, and be aware of the forces that may act on it in situ and how it might respond. While teflon tape may not be appropriate for every situation, the mere potential for mishap if improperly applied isn’t enough to make me swear off the stuff entirely. Cheers,
Rob
Another good argument for thread on the tenon, is it supports the tenon from splitting, acts a binding for it.
Still, regarding the use of teflon tape, it has its place in the toolkit. When the cork went loose on my little Olwell Rudall, I never once contemplated thread, preferring to judiciously apply the teflon tape as mentioned before. That’s been ages ago now, and the seal between cork and bore is lovely, tight as it needs to be while still responding to a gentle shove. No cracks so far, knock on boxwood. It’s worth noting that Patrick himself has no aversion to the stuff as such.
In evaluating its use in woodwinds, the same principal should apply to teflon tape as to all other materials: before using anything to repair an instrument, familiarize yourself with the properties of the material in question, learn how to use it properly, and be aware of the forces that may act on it in situ and how it might respond. While teflon tape may not be appropriate for every situation, the mere potential for mishap if improperly applied isn’t enough to make me swear off the stuff entirely. Cheers,
Rob[/quote]
I never leave home without some teflon tape! Especially with the antique flutes. It does take good judgment on the amount of tightness on then on, so not recommended for liberal use. I can well understand a flute without a socket ring, would be need more caution with teflon tape. But some of the antiques, especially like my Blackman, has huge flat rings, to support the socket.
One of my antique flutes has a very thin main tenon that suffered several cracks; it sports a single-layer epoxied thread-wrap for strength, under a lovely cork! Cheers,
Rob
That works, I was thinking of trying the carbon fiber thread/epoxy technique on a RC Boehm tenon that is cracked, the tenon is only about 1/2" long! another way to repair the cracked tenon, is to line it with silver, and then put the cork over that.
Thanks Casey, I did just that and it is as simple as you describe.
hmm