(And I know some of you have)…
How did you go about it? As in what did you push it with, how easily (or otherwise) did it go, how much did you let the flute dry out between adjustments and that sort of thing?
Thanks
P
You can use a piece of dowel or heavy-walled pipe such as PVC; I’d recommend half an inch or so diameter. I don’t remember Sweethearts being any more or less difficult than any flute without a screw cap.
I wouldn’t recommend moving the cork when the head is wet, as this can cause mold to grow, nor moving it much unless you really have reason to think it’s really out of whack.
Another option would be to contact Ralph or Walt directly through their web site. As the makers, they should be able to give you the best information.
Best wishes.
Steve
Not suggesting they are… just that I’ve got two Sweethearts here and only one (silver) flute with the screw adjuster.
I wouldn’t recommend moving the cork when the head is wet, as this can cause mold to grow, nor moving it much unless you really have reason to think it’s really out of whack.
Interesting tip re. mould when I was thinking more along the lines of possible tightness when wet. Also, re. ‘out of whack’, I’ve got two at different pitches (a D and a G) and the cork on one looks/feels like it might be out (proportionately closer to the embouchure hole with slightly stretched octaves to match) although I’ve not touched either. But I’d be sure to measure the current position before trying anything…
Have thought of that (wondered if they’d just say ‘don’t’!) and might yet, in which case I’d expect to measure both, quote the measurements and ask about their standard set-up/normal positional ranges. But not diving in without thought and still interested in any positive or negative experiences.
Cheers
P
My experience is that you can move the cork at will and experiment. On a D conical flute, the usual distance from the center of the embouchure hole to the cork varies from 19mm to 23mm. Stay in that range and find what works for you. If the cork is loose, then it’s vital that it become air tight. A good cork should not become a leaky cork just by moving it around.
Have had the D flute for many years and think the cork position on that one’s fine (c.19mm from centre of hole on about the same bore). So it’s the G (which I’ve just got) I’m thinking needs adjusting, and that one’s only about 10mm from centre of hole on > 15mm bore. Both firm and airtight.
Yes, you’ll want to move that back some. I’d start at about 14mm and then try it out again.
Are you playing first and second octave primarily? Or are you looking more for second and third octave playing?
How does the G flute play with the cork in the present position?
Feadoggie
Yep, I’d say so, although it’s always good to have more on tap!
Or are you looking more for second and third octave playing?
Not really, although I’ve just tried it up to two octaves and a sixth and got all the notes out…
How does the G flute play with the cork in the present position?
Easy blower, pretty fat tone for the first octave and a half then gets a bit thinner/harsher higher up unless I’m very fresh (so probably my resurrected embouchure as much as anything). Thought the octaves were OK when I got it at the weekend, but now sounding a tad stretched compared to the D with some control starting to come back (hadn’t played much flute for years). Need to watch I’m not killing too much ‘useful’ top end if I move the cork back, but guessing I’ve still got some leeway there given the available third octave range?
Went looking for trashed drum sticks at work today (the kids keep ‘sawing’ them on the edges of the hi-hats despite my pleas not to) with the intention of cutting the butt end of one square to make a ‘cork prodder’, but found one that was pretty well squared off anyway and brought that home to do the job. Took a couple of firm but gentle pushes (nothing to be afraid of, but wasn’t sure how easily it would go) to shift the cork back about 4.5mm, and that seems to have done nothing but good with the octaves much truer and the higher notes maybe even blowing easier (against expectations?) too. So going to try it like that for a few days, but now wouldn’t hesitate to adjust it again if I thought it wanted tweaking…
Really enjoying this G flute because it’s (even?) easier to manage than my older D, no doubt helped by similar-sized tone holes and marginally bigger/squarer embouchure on its smaller bore, but also both louder/fatter low down and playing more easily into the third octave.
I’ve never wondered this before, but where do makers get corks of the right size? Is there a standard size cork that works for wooden flutes? If there isn’t, is there some sort of perfect plug purveyor who sells rare andalusian musical corkwood to makers in the know?
Having said that just yesterday, the D’s suddenly starting to work for me again now (so maybe that smaller, more elliptical embouchure just needed a chance when I’d hardly touched it for years and only got it going again after some overdue oiling and joint re-lapping midweek!).
I doubt I qualify in your definition of “makers” but I’ve sold a few flutes. I bought a box of 100 natural corks from a wine-making supply house, number 9 cork I think - 15/16" meant for a 18.5mm bottle neck. Many flutes hae a 19mm bore. Corks come in a variety of other sizes for different bottling needs. Cork can be sanded down and shaped rather easily on the lathe, IME. I get two stoppers from each cork. I’ve experimented with synthetic corks for stoppers as well. Don’t know what others might do though.
Peter it sounds like you’ve got things worked out. I’ve used sawed-off drum sticks as a push rod for some years - good thinking. Seems my children are good at supplying the broken sticks provided I supply the new ones.
Feadoggie