Air is getting past the switch in the ‘open’ position. Any ideas how to cure the problem? Enough air leaks to cause quite a bit of extra effort to keep the set playing.
The switch is a simple friction bearing. The bush is airtight when shut. I have put in some cork grease having dissembled the switch, but this only has a very short period of effectiveness.
Pwt
Have you checked for a cracked mainstock?
I have checked for that, and as far as I can tell all is well with the stock. That is I removed the switch and drones, plugged everthing up and it was airtight; as well a a visual inspection.
It is a solid stock. It has a wider counter sunk hole at the drone end to accommodate the switch end peice when open, and into which the switch lever is attached with a pin. The lever articulates from a fixed position on the outside portion of the stock face - if you see what I mean.
I had thought to try and fit a cork bush at the drone end, deep in the counter sunk section, but this is nearly impossible, as the hole drilled from the bush end of the stock came through off centre.
I did not make the set and hope not to have to fill and re-drill the existing hole, or remake the stock…
Pwt
Try dismantling the switch again, but this time fill the hole in the stock with a heavier auto grease instead of cork grease. Grease like that won’t get absorbed by the wood, nor get pushed out by air pressure. It should still be soft enough not to hinder movement. though.
Papuga,
Thanks for that; but is there a grease that has no smell, but has the same viscosity. Automotive grease has rather an unpleasant odour except in an auto context.
Pwt
Most likely greese is not going to work; just make a mess. If the set of pipes is a relatively new, the rod goes through a cork located in the hole in the front of the stock. Take a small knife and gouge out the cork. Fit a new cork (no glue) with a hole that is just tight enough to allow the rod to move smoothly. If done correctly it will last for years.
All the best,
Pat Sky
Pat,
Thanks for your input. I guess that is the way, but the off-centre exit at the drone end leaves little room of the rod/cork/hole side, as the rod butts nearly tight against the side of the countersunk hole. Hmm..
What tool is best used to make holes in cork?
Pwt
I have a lathe of course, so to put a hole in the cork I first take a piece of tubing ( in my case 1/2" diameter) and after shaving the cork down I push it into the tubing with a tight fit, mount the tube in the lathe chuck, and with the correct drill in the tail chuck, and the lathe on high speed, I bore out the cork. I then take a solid rod and push the cork out of the tubing then push it into the pipes stock.
By the way at a chemistry supply house and some large hardware stores, one can purchase a cork with the hole already in it. These can be made to fit using a round file.
As to the problem with the rod pressing against the drone, take a file flatten that section that comes in contact. Or will bending the rod solve the problem.
All the best,
Pat
No lathe here, but you have shown me a way. I’ll give it a go.
Thanks again for your input.
Pwt