If you do not have carpet, a vacuum will cause more trouble than it is worth.
The Justification:
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On an uncarpeted floor, vacuums blow dust, particular fine dust, around. As much blows around, and UP on your furniture, as goes into the vacuum. You then have to get it off the furniture, out of your linens, out of your nose, etc.
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Vacuums require bags. When they fill, you dispose of them. This is a $$ process. Bagless vacuums sound like they don’t require this $$ process, but they require filters, instead. Even if you can empty the canister, the filter clogs quickly. You have to manually clean the filter. This process raises a huge cloud of the stuff you just vacuumed up, including stuff you had no idea was there. They suck up fine particulate matter, like dust mites and skin cells. It adheres to the filter like a thick layer of flour. Like 1/4-inch worth. You have to do this outside or inside a large plastic garbage bag. The crud from your floor will be all over your arms, on your clothes, in your hair, and everywhere, and then . . . and then . . . not only will you you STILL have to buy MORE FILTERS, but you’ll itch.
Filters are where the vacuum manufacturers make their money . . . the vacuum is cheap, but the filters are $$$$ compared to bags. Really outrageously priced. If you can find them. They change styles frequently and stop making them as soon as they issue a new version of the vacuum, making you keep buying vacuums.
- HEPA filters work great in laboratories. They don’t work so well in vacuums, where the air gets around the edges anyway. It’s a myth that vacuuming with a HEPA filter vacuum does a whole lot for allergies. They stir up as much junk as they suck up and half of what they suck up ends up back in the room or all over you. (See #2.)
Doctors are big on recommending these right now because the words “HEPA filter” sounds like what’s used in lab biocontainment gadgets and because the vacuum industry promotes them to allergists. Doctors don’t clean houses, so they’re pretty much clueless about this.
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To do an adequate job, you will require 2 vacuums–a larger one and a smaller one to get behind furniture. Or, if you have only a smaller one, you will have to do the whole process on your hands and knees, which sucks.
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Even after vacuuming, you’ll STILL need to wet mop.
The Viable Alternatives:
- For an uncarpeted area, you will do better employing a process known as “damp dusting.” You have a choice of methods.
a. Swiffering: Get one of the larger Swiffer DRY floor dusters. It consists of a fluffy disposable cloth attached to a lightweight, folding swivel handle. You run this over your floor and everything except rocks will stick to it. Simply swivel it behind your furniture. Keep it ON the floor–don’t flap it around. Go all around the room and then run it right out the door, where you’ll take off the used cloth and deposit it in the trash.
b. Microfiber Cloths: There are several makers of similar systems which employ a microfiber cloth. Dust sticks to microfiber cloths. You go over the floor dry and then you wash the cloth out. You may then be able to mop the floor with the WET cloth.
c. Broom and Mop: This works as well as “a” and “b.” Using a PLASTIC broom with fluffy ends on the bristles (a Libman or something, not a cheap one), sweep carefully so that you do not stir up dust. Scoop and drag rather than sweeping cartoon-style. After the surface dirt is out of the way, wet mop with a sponge or cloth mop.
There is no need for this mopping to be a huge production. I sweep and then mop with a microfiber car-detailing towel dunked in a small pail or in the sink. Yup, by hand. No mop handle required. It’s good for your back. You can also tie the cloth around a broom.
Regardless of which method you use, you will STILL need to dust and clean your furniture. Wipe off all surfaces, even sides, with a microfiber cloth dampened with water. Even wood. The cloth does not need to be “wet.” Just “damp.” Alternatively, you can use a Swiffer duster, either a mitt or one on a handle. Swiffers dust very well. (I use both, depending.)
If there is actual soil on the surfaces, use a bit of Murphy Oil Soap in water you mop with.
Watch out what you mop your floor with, because most leave a sticky residue if they are not completely rinsed. Use Murphy Oil Soap or Armstrong Floor Cleaner for ceramic tile and no-wax floors. Do not use ammonia, or you may ruin the wax the school puts on the floors.
The fastest method? Broom and wet-mop.
What does my hospital use? Definitely not vacuums. They use a 3-foot-wide Swiffer followed by wet-mopping. Then, they wet-wipe all the furniture. (That should give you a clue as to how useful Infection Control things HEPA vacuuming is.)
But, I assume you’re going to really want a vacuum. If so, a Eureka Boss SuperLite is what I recommend. I have one of these and it’s as effective as my big Hoover. It’s small and it collapses–the handle pushes down inside the canister part–so it won’t take up a lot of space. It also lies flat to go under furniture. The canister is easily removable to dump out and the filter cleans fairly easily without permanent clogging. I’ve been using the same one more than a year now.
