hey guys , i have played low whistles, and tin whistle for years off and on, but NOW, Finally I have moved up---------- 
i have made and sold many bamboo and NAF flutes , they sound Great , but Not the reedy sound i have truly wanted -------- SO I got me a Older Casey Burns - Wonderful old time sound--------- My question is -BORE OIL---------I make my own mix of Sweet Almond and Beeswax Polish for my wood working needs------------------but the OIL i have used on other things is SWEET ALMOND
it Seems to be a good deal- now I have heard Adding some Vitamin E in the Almond is good ----------- but it is the best thing
Doctors bore oil, Other bore oils---------does it make a difference------I know this has been discussed many times -BUT NOW I AM A FLUTE MAN----------------AND I AM LISTENING
Casey sez http://www.caseyburnsflutes.com/faq.php#care
(bottom of the page)
well I do appreciate the reply , but i have ALready read Caseys instructions--------- maybe i have not been clear–Are there certain Bore oils Better than others–or is it “Hyped up”------- or it is the same as Almond with E---------- my intent was to get Personal replies not textbook ones--------thanks though
ah! yet another bore oil controversy thread then!
from March 4, 2010 Advice about caring for my first new wood flute
from Jan 9, 2010 Question about oiling flute
from Aug 26,2009 Linseed Oil…
Seriously, the oil dialog is much ado about nothing, or almost nothing. Any professional oil should do (I use Yamaha bore oil). Seems to me that unless you oil all the time, which is unnecessary, it matters little what oil you use so long as it’s one of the standard approved types.
i have heard there are oils that Give nutrients and let the wood breath better than others----- this is why i am questioning because the OIL itself is not ALL what saves/helps the wood , it is what helps the Water to dry slower–if penetration happens–it acclimates easier for inconsistant periods of humidity – the oil simulates a continual water STATE as IF it were still alive-----i have a wood working shop and make my own oils and waxes---------- but My flute i am Not experimenting with 
---- it might be as simple as you say or more complex----
thanks denny------ my think i will do my sweet almond with E— my pocket book is a little shy-------i would like to get to get some Bore oil from the Doc but he is a little high priced--------for now anyway
i was also thinking to lightly wax the outside, i have heard clarinetist do it-- but you brought up a good point in a prior post-----Quote: “so the inside is wet while the outside is dry
so the inside swells while the outside shrinks”-----------my flute is about 25 years old , but looks great
thoughts
someone had to say and now I will:
BORE OIL topics are BORING
(thats why i post in them)
i ended up getting–Roche-Thomas to season up a new flute coming
Beyond age, alcohol is the most effective bore oil.
The wood is dead. It’s important to oil, but which oil is not important. The vitamin E is only supposed to help the oil not go off, it doesn’t help the flute.
I use linseed oil (no, here is an important point - don’t use the so-called “boiled” linseed, which has a lot of additives to turn it into something not far off varnish) because it has a slightly musty, “old” odour, which discourages other people from wanting to play my flute. Cooking oil is fine - to go up-market you can use olive oil. Coconut oil. Walnut oil. Sunflower seed oil. Corn oil. Sesame oil. You could probably use warm lard (yukk). It’s not very important.
I need to update that FAQ page!
These days I am recommending only commercial bore oils such as Bore Doctor, etc. I know several use almond oil, sometimes with vitamin E. And sometimes other oils.
I have seen some pretty disgusting flutes come back with oils that have hardened into a sticky mess or have gone rancid before or after application or developed mold in the bores.
You don’t have to worry about this with the commercial oils.
Sure these commercial bore oils are expensive compared to a bottle of Almond oil at the grocery store. But your fully keyed flute is also expensive!
Would you put a motor oil or a gasoline of uncertain quality into your Honda? Same with your flute - use the best that is available. Not the cheapest!
Casey
careful there lingpupa, we takes our sacred cows real serious, we do
I confess to hyperbole. (Especially about the lard!) But seriously, if you oil moderately but regularly, will, for instance, corn oil go off? Won’t it be as stable as the traces of it left on a frying pan? Not that I would in fact use corn oil, but for the sake of example… What is the magic ingredient in commercial bore oil? (I nearly said snake oil for a moment there!)
i used to use olive and walnut----there both good-------- with my older flute i use a mixture of almond and E----------almond last alot longer than most realize if kept in the dark or refrigerator
the "Doc " recommends WAXING the outside , what are your thoughts on this, straight oil in side and out-
since your making my new one, i have went with Roche-Thomas bore oil for the break in -----this should be good, i would guess
On my flutes - just use the commercial oil. Am not sure by what Doc means by “wax”. Paste wax? Carnuba? Beeswax? Klister (just kidding)?
I don’t use any such waxes of any kind in the outside finishing and treatment of my flutes. Just a linseed oil which is of highest quality.
I recommend just the commercial oil for oiling thereafter. In fact, I am about to make it a requirement to keep the warranty on my flutes - just because of the disasters I’ve seen with non-commercial alternatives. Use something else - and I’ll refuse to correct it should problems ensue!
Casey
yea i could see,your point---- that given too much freedom to use ANY oil could lead to problems----
being that warranties, given to bare wood products is in itself is a scary thing----------neglect and mis-information has no place when dealing with fine wood products--------they must be cared for and attended too
i have heard people use humidifiers------ is this a neccesity,a recommendation or would proper wetting , drying and periodic oil suffice-----------the reality is , I would think, is most people keep their flutes in a drawer or case , IN THE HOUSE------- i cant see any one leaving it in the elements------------ and unless someone lived in the congo ,humidity in the house is at a low, but a constant one------------or is it A Continuous Change in humidity (high and lows) the risk factor
I remember the last time I used Bore oil. The smell turned me off of it.
That Roché-Thomas stuff is pretty stinky. Eau de High School Band Room. Makes your flute smell more like a machine shop than evoke visions of the green groves of Erin.
Casey, I’d think you need to be careful or at least very specific if you’re going to require commercial goo. For example, I have a bottle of commercial bore oil purchased from a woodwind shop under their own brand name. It’s nothing more than almond oil with vitamin E. And if I make up my own batch of the exact same stuff, I’d void the warranty? I’d think you’d need to allow for exact equivalents.