You missed seeing it on eBay a couple of weeks back, Lorenzo?
I flagged this one by FB pm to Steffen over the weekend - but like I said, Steffen doesn’t seem to be around at the moment!
Well, that’s kind of expensive, at that time I must have skipped it. I wonder if it’s worth the difference of price with the english german one.
I’m back now, just survived the heftiest cold evahr…
I’m in touch with a few people and there are many options - but I’m sure I’ll find something quite soon. Thanks for all the input.
Nobody got in touch with me 
Well, I’d say it likely has a lot more tone - prob larger bore and holes etc. The 5-key English one my friend traded “your” one (Ga.) back for was a similar looking thing (cf my YT clips on it: E1, E2, E3) I sold the English one for £360 on the strength of how good a player I felt it was as well as its condition. (It had a replacement crown before it was sold.) Mind you, looking back at this other clip (Gb) of the German, it really isn’t a bad little flute! Oh, here’s another (Gc) - I’d forgotten what I’d done on what!
Commiserations, and glad you’re recovering. You’re welcome, and I hope some of it was/will be useful.
Hey Lorenzo, what d’ya reckon to the prospects on the German F now? Have you checked out those clips? I take it you’re waiting for it to arrive?
I gotta recharge my prepaid card and then I’ll pay (hopefully today) 
I won’t fully judge a flute from anybody but a top flute player, or myself when I can try it. 
Lovely little thing Jem, nice response. Reminds me of a Mezler I’ve tried. Couldn’t get a very strong low D yet, but it will come. Second 8ve is really nice.
Yeah, I liked it well enough. Could get German flutes a better name! Glad you agree/are happy with your purchase. Is my head-crack repair standing up ok? Interesting to get a report back a couple of years on!
You should do a couple of clips on it when you’re used to it and post them on YT as responses to my ones on it! It’d be interesting to see how different we sound (or not…).
Ah, sure
Is my head-crack repair standing up ok? Interesting to get a report back a couple of years on!
I’ve just checked, and the answer is, no. It looses some air from the part just under the blow hole. How would you proceed?
Not sure what you mean, Lorenzo, so can’t advise until I understand fully. Is the leak enough to affect low-end tone? Can you see a failure in the repair glue line - a hairline along beteen the filling and the wood?
The head is lined, so unless the crack has really opened up again, which ought to be surface-visible, I don’t see how the head can leak “just below the blow-hole” - if that is what you mean. The only leaks possible in a lined head (whose stopper is sound) are 1) if there is a crack through the embouchure which is open at the embouchure walls and leaks thence along the crack to the surface, or 2) if the wood is not fully glued to the metal liner both at the embouchure chimney and along inside between the two tubes, whence it could also communicate from the wood/metal interface in the chimney through the crack to the surface or past the end of the wood’s contact with the metal within the tuning slide mortice. Can you take a close-up picture and send it me/post it with a pointer to the area you think leaks? Even better, put some spit over the leaking bit and blow bubbles to show where it gets out and photo or video that!
I mean that if I put some split on the crack, cover the blow-hole with the index finger and blow from the tuning slide, I see bubbles coming out from the crack just next to the index finger. The crack looks kind of open but I’m not too sure, low E and D are kind of weak but not too much (maybe I’m just not yet used to the flute), but I don’t know how it would sound if the headjoint was airtight. Tell me if it’s not yet clear and I’ll send you some pictures in case…
OK, I understand now, but would still like to see a close up photo.
Was it like it when it arrived or has it happened since it did so? I’m just thinking about dehydration in hot ol’ Italy. (Have experienced the effects on my own flutes in Spain!).
The way I did the repair, the bore of the wooden head tube was enlarged just enough to put the liner back without stress. The crack itself was only superglued (and filled with dust/glue) and the liner glued back in place so that the position of the wood tube was supported by being fully glued to the liner metal. It ought then to be stable, but there’s nothing actually pulling the crack together, so conceivably either a bad knock could just break the glue bond or dehydration and wood shrinkage could cause it to open up - at least enough to break the superglue bond in places. It may be sufficient merely to run some fresh superglue into the affected area and then clean the surface - if there is no significant opening. If there is, maybe the head job will need re-doing.
Will the acetone to remove the excess superglue “ruin” the wood?
No. it won’t harm it at all. I used plenty on it! See any damage?
However, acetone will remove the Renaissance Wax finish I applied in the areas it gets on, and you’ll have to be careful that it doesn’t soften and take off any of the glue+wood-dust crack top-dressing. It won’t matter about the wax. It’ll soon get enough human wax spread around on it! You could rub it/repolish it with a little beeswax furniture polish (as I doubt you’ll have access to any Renaissance Wax) if you like, or a light rub of bore oil and wipe-off/buff.
It must be the period (although the humidity seems stable), the barrell crack on my HY Potter has also re-opened