Which flute keys are the best keys?

Irish Flute
1

Which flute keys are the best keys? By keys I mean the silver things that open up accidentals and/or accidentally. (otherwise the answer to the question would be D mixolydian obviously.) I play Irish tunes.

I am seriously considering ordering a proper keyed flute from a flute maker, but I wonder if I should get all six keys. Keep in mind that I have no idea how to use said keys musically speaking. I definitely would use an F natural key, but do you use both the long and the short one? Or is there one F key that you always use while the other one sits there taking up space and maintenance time? Likewise for the long C; I don’t think a C key would change my usual habit of cross-fingering the C anyway, but maybe it adds the possibility of ornaments on the C? Do you use the C key often? The D# key I know is mostly useless in Irish music with the exception of playing Crested Hens as a waltz which comes up in my town somewhat often. And, G# seems pretty essential.

Basically, if I were to order a four-key flute instead of a six-key, am I saving myself any maintenance or troubles? Am I limiting my ability to use common techniques? And, which keys should they be? Note that it’ll be a Pratten type model with all six holes lined up on one piece (my inclination is to order from Michelle Brophy).

My current flute is a Forbes (keyless, derlin).

Sorry if this question has already been addressed, but I’m having a hard time finding it, so maybe it’s been a while… :stuck_out_tongue: Thanks!

2

I suggest all 8 keys, but for 95% Irish music you either 6 or 0 keys. For non-Irish, you probably want the full chromatic-cism.

Reasons to desire certain keys:
Eb - Necessary for accidental D#/Eb. Necessary for third register, and enhances the E note quite a bit. Most ITM players turn the key out and never use it, however.

F-nat - Most traditional players seem to prefer the short-F, but I find the long-F much easier, once you train up the agility in your pathetic little finger. Short-F becomes necessary for certain note patterns in the “flat keys”, like the key of Eb.

G# - Necessary if you play tunes in A, which the fiddlers seem to like. I never quite like how the key of A sounds on my simple-system flutes, and I can’t play very quickly in A… but, then there’s Mister Malloy.

Bb - Necessary if you want to play in G-minoror D-minor. Flat keys are wonderfully dark on simple-system flutes.

That leaves the question of C-nat.
Like you I have always been fond of the cross-fingered C-nat; for me it is the OXO XXX k version that is usually good on Rudall-style and historic flutes. (OXX OOO is rarely good on historic flutes). So, C-nat was the last key I thought I would need. Then, as I played different flutes, I found that the C/C# intonation was often compromised one way or another, especially on some of the larger holed flutes. Ironically, I found that the C-nat key often gives the greatest benefit for the C# note - again, depending on the flute.

So my recommendation in order of importance:
Six keys to give you all chromatic options and for better resale.
Eb & G# because when you need them, you really need them
C-nat to improve C/C# intonation
F-nat & Bb so you can play in all those dark, flat key signatures.

3

Tom gives some great advice, but I would say 4 keys gets you 95% there…there are some runs up and down where you need that second Fnat key. 6 keys is great for most music…about 99% there. You can handle anything but the low C# or low C (although D rolls are great with that C# key) and just jump the octave or harmonize on the low C/C# as needed.

However, if you can afford it and the maker you prefer has the two low keys…just get them. Then you can play whatever you like and not worry you’re missing out on anything…unless you see one of those old Austrian flutes that goes down to a low B or A! LOL.

Seriously though…on Irish, I’d opt for a 4 key as a minimum. D#/Eb really sucks without a key, and G# can be dicey as well. Full disclosure, though…I have 2 8 key flutes. I love having options.

Eric

4

I agree with tstermitz and jayhawk, but I also play fully keyed flutes. I play a lot of music outside of the Irish tradition and I use keys all the time.

The Irish flute is a fairly low maintenance instrument in the woodwind family, compared to the Boehm flute or the clarinet for instance, where you have far many more pads and a very precise and fragile mechanism that can easily get out of sync. I wouldn’t use maintenance as a criterion to decide whether I need a key or not, as any competent woodwind specialist could repad or adjust keys on an Irish flute when the need arises.
Regarding your question, I use both keys for F natural, but if I had to choose only one that would definitely be the long one, although I think I use the short one more. The transition from D to F, or the other way around, is much easier with a long F, and this is quite common.

Likewise for the long C; I don’t think a C key would change my usual habit of cross-fingering the C anyway, but maybe it adds the possibility of ornaments on the C? Do you use the C key often?

I use the C nat key whenever I can, and the cross fingering whenever I have to (usually ascending or descending). I also use it for some ornements: cut and tap on Cnat, CBC ornament that you find in Swedish music, and also to sharpen the second octave C#, which on my flutes is rather flat and not as easy to lip up to pitch as the first octave C#.

The D# key I know is mostly useless in Irish music with the exception of playing Crested Hens as a waltz which comes up in my town somewhat often.

Perhaps but as tstermitz said it opens the door to the 3rd octave, and practicing 3rd octave notes is one of the best exercises for focusing your embouchure. I’d say that even if you don’t use Eb (and personally I use it often), it would be worth having it just for that.

Another use for keys, and that’s true for all of them, is that you can produce more subtle (and imo much nicer) slides by sliding by a half-step instead of a full step. E.g. instead of E-F# you slide F-F# by opening the Fnat key. I was taught that last year and now find the “full” slide tacky in comparison.

Bottom line: once you have keys, it opens a world of possibilities. Get as many keys as you can afford from the maker you have chosen: I doubt that you would regret having too many keys, but you might regret not having enough.

5

I’ll start with what I think is the most important reason to get at least a six key flute and that’s resale value. If you’re either selling the flute in the future, or looking to buy secondhand, there is a stronger market for six or eight keyed flutes than for flutes with fewer keys. Beyond that, “best keys” is just personal preference and what repertoire you’re playing, but here’s my list.

Fnat I use frequently, but only the long key. I never use the short Fnat. There may be tunes where it would make more sense to use the short Fnat, but it keeps things simple in my head if there is only one finger movement to play the note.

G# is probably my next most used key.

Cnat is an odd one for me. I much prefer cross-fingering the Cnat for the slightly sharper “Piper’s C” pitch, and it’s fast to cross-finger at dance tempos. I only use the Cnat key for the higher-pitched C note above B in some Irish tunes to get a nice clear note.

The second-least used keys for me are Eb and Bb, but there are still tunes I play that use them. I wouldn’t want to be without them.

Finally, the foot keys. I think there is only one tune I play that uses the C# foot key, the “J.B. Reel” but I love that tune and it really needs that note. So far, I haven’t used the Cnat foot key for anything.

6

If you have both F natural keys you will use them both. The C natural key, while not essential, is the most widely used (according to Terry). I find it simplifies playing many passages (I use the cross-fingered C Nat often too, mostly for the same reason. Above all there is a wealth of gorgeous music that you can play on a six-key–I’m playing a good deal of baroque now, all sorts of music as well as Celtic. It’s worth having a flute that plays virtually everything. I have 8 keyed flutes too, and I can do without the two bottom keys.

7

Awesome thanks everyone! This is clear confirmation that I should order a 6 key. Eight should be great but not all makers do eight keys, six seems more of a standard thing now I guess. Thank you for so of your thoughtful and detailed responses!!

8

This discussion came up elsewhere and I asked Terry McGee if he could rank what customers purchase in order of popularity.

I was surprised when he said the vast majority order either no keys, or six keys.

The no-keys thing isn’t a surprise as I’ve seen a huge number of fluters who play vintage 8-key flutes never touch any of the keys. In the old days you’d see many fluters rotate the foot so the footjoint keys are out of the way, or have tape holding the keys shut, or have the keys removed and the holes plugged.

The surprising thing to me is the popularity of 6-key flutes, because I’ve seen a huge number of fluters who play 6-key or 8-key flutes, people who do use some of the keys for certain tunes, never touch the C key, Eb key, or Long F key.

Needless to say each added key gives an extra location for a potential leak, and unless you’re buying a used flute there’s a considerable added expense for each key.

Seems to me the most practical for ITM would be a 3-key G#, Bb, and either F, giving you a chromatic body joint, or if you wanted a fully chromatic instrument order a foot with Eb key, either initially or later down the road.

9

I suspect the reasons for purchasing a six key flute over one with fewer keys comes down (in many cases) to :

A. The owner also plays or wants to play other genres of music in addition to ITM. If you want to play blues, rock, jazz, classical, etc., you’re gonna be wanting 6 keys to make your life easier and, in some cases, more well intonated.

And

B. Resale value. A 6 key flute will be easier to sell in many cases than one with 4 or less keys, since those who only “need” 3-4 keys will often be willing to buy a used 6 key flute, but someone who wants or needs a 6 key flute is unlikely to purchase a flute with 4 keys or less.



I do think far more people like to play other genres of music with their simple system flutes than the hardcore ITM crowd talks about. Probably best not to start conversations at a session that could unwittingly encourage jazz style improv outbreaks mid set, plenty of session challenges as it is.

10

I agree with the above, that for many fluters the choice of a six-key over fewer keys is at least partly about resale value, so you don’t get stuck with something nobody wants to buy if you need to sell it later on.

This also affects what you can find on the used flute market, where there is a much wider selection of six and eight key flutes. Especially from the “name brand” higher-end flute makers, if that’s what you’re looking for. It tends to normalize the idea of a six-key flute as a minimum standard. I do agree that more keys means more potential leaks, but all of us six or eight key flute players including the famous artists who play them, seem to manage the upkeep that prevents it from being a serious problem.

11

I 100% agree with you, and that’s the case for me. Both my bands like to branch out a bit into Breton, Quebecoise and Scottish music. For fun, I play baroque through the late romantic period pieces, and play the blues and old rock a bit with some of my rock guitar wielding friends. I use all 8 of my keys, but I would never, ever call one of those Sam Murray (RIP) 3 key set-ups as sufficient. At least get the basic 4 key set-up to be truly chromatic…or just go keyless.

Eric

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I use all 8 keys for just Irish traditional music.

13

Get all the keys you can afford, you will eventually play them.

14

Do people have an opinion on the relative merits of pin versus block-mounted keys? I see Geert Lejeune offers both options, favouring pins on a Pratten model but block mounted on his R&R style for aesthetic reasons. He notes the pins require less friction, presumably because the key you press down on to engage the pad is closer to the body of the flute on a pin-mounted key. Do people think it makes a difference in performance or in the learning process moving from keyless to six-keyed flute whether you have pin-mounted or block-mounted keys?

15

I would guess the flute and flute maker is more important than post vs block mount… I played a german flute that was post mounted and for obvious reasons it was much more terrible than any of the block mounted flutes from good makers. Not every maker offers both (most don’t) so find a flute and flute maker you like first and don’t worry about the key style unless you have to.

16

If you’re really trying to minimize the number of keys, my opinion is to skip Bb. On the flutes I have, cross-fingering Bb works pretty well.

I would say F, D# and G# are the most useful. Not specifically for Irish music, but just in general.

Long F is good specifically when you have to go FDF. Otherwise short F is okay.

So if you are in the situation when you are counting up the simoleons to see if you can afford your dream flute, the former are my recommendations.

If you have the scratch to get the 6-key version, go for it. It will be easier to sell when your grandchildren are trying to empty out your home.

Low C and C# can be cool. But flutemakers say those are the keys that require the most maintenance. The reason why 6-key flutes are so common.

17

That makes total sense, though it never would have occurred to me.

I don’t think once in my life I’ve bought an instrument, or a car for that matter, with resale in my mind.

For sure my own fluteplaying was all done on mid-19th century London-made 8-key orchestral flutes and I played for years in a dance band that did Bulgarian, Macedonian, and Israeli folk dance music. Yes I used every one of the 8 keys.

But if I was starting over today, unless I came across a more-affordable used 6-key, and I had to buy a new bespoke flute, I’d order a 3-key simply for cost.

18

I would also be interested in any views on this question.

19

I think it’s mainly about what aesthetic you prefer when it comes to function. More Pratten flutes were later made and pin mounts are simpler than turned wooden mounts (which are the older paradigm and hence more rudall-esque). My block mounted keys on my Copley have low clearance. Whatever the maker prefers is what I would go for.

Eric

20

Both work well.

A point that has been hinted at above. You aren’t buying a flute for yourself now. You’re buying a flute for yourself in five years. If you are serious about flute, in five years you will be using the keys if you have them. And lots of interests may open up. If you have the bread, I suggest you buy the best six key you can afford.