Tuning slide issues

hey all i already did a search for this and couldn’t find anything… (although i didn’t look too hard) but i’m having trouble with my tuning slide on my SYN Soprano D, it’s really stiff, and i’ve never put any sort of lubricant on it before but am considering it since i don’t want to damage anything by pulling too hard or scratching or whatnot. Anyways, any suggestions for what to use? It’s an aluminum whistle; more details located at: http://www.tinwhistler.com/music/reviews/srcreview.asp?keyword=syn_aluminum so let me know what you guys think. Thanks.

~Joe

Actually, it’s good to keep it lubricated. Most manufacturers of tuneable whistles recommend that you pull the head completely off and tune the whistle before each use in order to keep the slide working properly. I own a Syn myself and I’ve never used anything fancy on it, most of the time I just use plain old chapstick and it works fine. Just apply a bit to the slide with your finger and you’re set. Many will recommend cork grease and if you have that easily accessible to you, go for it but don’t spend a lot as I don’t think it’s neccessary.
If you’ve never put any sort of lubricating agent on in your slide, I’d say that’s probably your problem. The metal has a very abrasive texture to it and will not slide easily against itself without a lubricant… that’s why your car needs oil.
I hope you find this helpful.

chapstick, really? Does it matter if it’s flavored? I guess it wouldn’t matter. I’ll give it a try thanks.

If it looks a little tarnished or gummed up, clean it with some fine steel wool on the brass part and inside the tube. Erle recomends vasaline as a lubricant but I guess chapstick is pretty close. Pulling it apart might be a little tricky though!

I also use chap stick for my whistles. I am not going to use steel wool to clean them. It might leave some fine parts that could rust and make the slide stick worse. I use toothpaste and a rag. Then rinse and dry.

You could go to a music store and buy a little pot of tuning slide grease. I prefer the Roche-Thomas kind. They actually make this stuff for brass instruments but it works just the same on whistles. This stuff is specifically designed to lubricate metal fitted with close tolerances.

If your whistle parts are sticking together, try grabbing it with a handful of rubber bands (in each hand) or use those rubber jar lid openers and make sure your twist while pulling.

Using steel wool isn’t my choice for cleaning because of the chance for debris to be left on the slide as mentioned above. You can use those green “scotch-brite” pads tho and they work a treat. Just make sure that all the contact surfaces are thoroughly rinsed and wiped with a soft lint-free cloth afterward to remove any lingering bits of oxidation.

I would definitely advise against using steel wool. It may leave small particles of the aluminum on the slide and may cause it to get scratched up. It definitely won’t make it slide any easier with all that in there either.

i used a little bit of chapstick and it did the trick. Thanks for all the help guys.

Hey, Yo, HOLD UP A MINUTE!!! Ixnay on the Apstickyay!!!


Seriously kids, do yourselves a HUGE favor and layoff the Chapstick, tuning slide grease, and the like - go with vaseline in these applications (if lube is even suggested by the maker) instead.

Why you ask? Because chapstick and slide grease will harden over time, which can cause REALLY MAJOR freezing of your tuning slide. I’ve had this happen on several whistles and flutes I’ve purchased from others, and I’ve seen it countless times on other people’s instruments in the shop (both woodwinds and brasswinds.)

Vaseline won’t harden over time, like chapstick and slide grease, so it’s much safer to use.

But again, check with the maker first - your instrument may have been designed NOT to have lubrication - not talking specifically about Syn’s here, as that question seems to have already been answered. However, for example, if you have an Abell, and the slide has become difficult to move, it is most likely due to silver tarnish, in which case using a proper silver polishing cloth alone will restore perfect function. However if you lube the slide, you’ll simply be mucking things up more, as Abell slides are not meant to be lubed. Ditto with a number of other flute and whistle slides, so always check with the maker, rather than adopting a general policy for all of your various instruments.


Loren

Loren does have a valid point and I’m not going to argue with it at all but I have a Syn whistle, when it is not lubricated it is a bear to tune and I’ve never used anything but chapstick to lubricate it. Granted, I’m not laying it on super thick, just a couple of swabs with the finger and smoothing it out evenly on the slide. It has always worked fine for me. The main reason tht I use chapstick is simply that I always have it on me, in my pocket. I don’t have vaseline handy at a session so I use that instead. Syn whistles use a rubber O-ring in the slide and it doesn’t take much lubrication to get it moving again. Also, I always wipe away any excess (when there rarely is any) before I apply more. I guess the best advice would just be to contact Syn and ask what is best for their whistle. You could even PM him, he does have an account on C&F but I don’t remember what it is… I think it’s Syn_Whistles or something like that. Anyone else know?

Vaseline?!?! Are you NUTZ? :boggle: :laughing:

Sorry Loren, You are incorrect. Tuning slide grease will not harden over time. CORK grease may, if you get the cheap stuff that is water based. Tuning slide grease is petroleum based (like Vaseline) but because of the thicker viscosity (about like chapstick actually but without the paraffin that when cold will gum up your slide) will actually provide better lubrication on well made slides with tight tolerances than Vaseline will. Plus because it is thicker it is less likely to melt at skin temperature like Vaseline and become essentially oil which will (believe it or not) almost instantly freeze this type of metal fitting.

Also because it is petroleum based, it will provide a waterproof barrier to the metal and further slow the oxidation caused by the moisture in your breath. So your slide will run longer between cleanings.

All this of course not considering specific makers who advise against lubing their whistles.

Scott

I have a Syn set like the one reviewed here: http://chiffboard.mati.ca/viewtopic.php?p=429002
I don’t think there’s a rubbler O-ring, just a brass slide. Has the design changed, and which is the current design? Great whistles, BTW!

Scott wrote:

"Vaseline?!?! Are you NUTZ? :boggle: :laughing: "

No.

“Sorry Loren, You are incorrect.”

No, I am not.

“Tuning slide grease will not harden over time.”

Okay, rather than argue, I’ll just tell you what I base my comments on: For 5 years I managed a musical instrument store, where band instrument rentals constituted a large part of our business - we rented several hundred brass and woodwind instruments a year. In addition we took in hundreds of other brass and woodwind instruments for repair as well, since we had an in-house repair shop.

Now, during those 5 years I saw hundreds of instruments with frozen slides and mouthpieces (where it’s metal to metal like with trumpets, trombones, etc.), and in the vast majority of the cases this was due to a build up and hardening of slide grease. Granted, some of these folks may have used cork grease instead of slide grease, but trumpets (and many other brass instruments), for example, don’t have cork, and we supplied slide grease with every instrument we rented or sold, so it’s HIGHLY improbable that many, or even most of the stuck brass slides we encountered were due to cork grease that had been substitited for slide grease.

If you want to contradict me Scott that’s your prerogative, but at least give us some substantial experiential or scientific data to back it up.

By the way, I’ve run across a number of “famous” maker all metal whistles (not going to name the brand) with severely frozen tuning slides - some of the owners have told me they used nothing but slide grease (although others did admit to using cork grease or chap stick)


“CORK grease may, if you get the cheap stuff that is water based.”

In my experience I have not run across a cork grease that will not harden enough to freeze tight fitting slides over time.

“Tuning slide grease is petroleum based (like Vaseline) but because of the thicker viscosity (about like chapstick actually but without the paraffin that when cold will gum up your slide) will actually provide better lubrication on well made slides with tight tolerances than Vaseline will.”

I agree that the higher viscosity makes for better lubrication. I’d even agree that vaseline is not, ultimately, the best solution, a dry fit slide is, or alternately, a user who will do regular maintanence to their instrument, but in practice, that’s hard to find. As I’ve said before, check with the maker and go with what they recommend, my suggestion is vaseline if you need something “Now” while you’re waiting to hear back from the maker, or if you can’t contact them. Hell, I’d say simply clean the slide and use nothing is best, but people seem to feel some crazy need to constantly grease that which doesn’t need it, and then ignore greasing those things that do (like corks).


“Plus because it is thicker it is less likely to melt at skin temperature like Vaseline and become essentially oil which will (believe it or not) almost instantly freeze this type of metal fitting.”

You exaggerate: When vaseline liquifies while on a slide, (which doesn’t happen at room temperature), the slide doesn’t freeze, it merely becomes a bit “catchy” as the metal grabs on metal a bit when you move the slide. Certainly the slide is still moveable by hand, it simply becomes a bit fiddly, not frozen solid to the point where a either a mouthpiece puller, or leather headed mallets need to be brought into play, which is often the case cork and slide grease. And why would you let your instrument get so hot as to liquify the vaseline anyway?

“Also because it is petroleum based, it will provide a waterproof barrier to the metal and further slow the oxidation caused by the moisture in your breath. So your slide will run longer between cleanings.”

Well, this is good marketing, but not entirely true, as water vapor still gets through to the slide one way or another regardless.

“All this of course not considering specific makers who advise against lubing their whistles.”

Again, agreed there.

Look, I don’t think slide grease is evil :smiling_imp: and I agree it’s a “better” choice than cork grease and chapstick to be sure., however long experience has shown me that metal slides can, and do, still freeze up even when slide grease is used. With a brass instrument, it’s not a huge deal, because there are tools to easily deal with the situation, will a heavy duty all metal whistle, it’s a bit trickier - you have to wack the slide area, often repeatedly, with a leather headed jeweler’s mallet (assuming you’ve already tried heating and cooling), but with a wooden whistle you’re screwed - You obviously can’t start whacking the wood surrounding the slide with mallet. You can’t safely cool the entire whistle without risking cracks to the wood. If you had the proper tooling you might be able to pry the sections apart, depending on how the banding is sized and attached, but there is a risk of damage to the wood. You can’t heat the entire instrument, for obvious reasons. So the best option left in many cases is heating the slide itself, but you seriously risk debonding the slide from the wood in the process, and then you have to reglue and reinstall the entire slide, assuming you can get it unstuck. There are a few other risky aproaches as well, but my point is that, particularly with wooden whistles, why take the chance?

At any rate, people will do whatever they want regardless. The point I’m trying to make is that if one is unsure what to use: A) check with the maker and take their advice or B) If the maker is unavailable for whatever reason, first clean and dry the slide to see if you can get by with no lube (often you can), but if that doesn’t work, it’s my opinion that you’re much better off using a little vaselne as opposed cork grease or chap stick. I’ll even agree with Scott that, in the short term, cork grease is better than vaseline, however over time it absolutely can cause a slide to freeze.

Take it FWIW.

Loren

Sorry I’ve missed this folks, but at this stage please allow me to recommend good old Vaso on the tuning slide. At least on Syns, I can’t speak for any other makers recommendations for their whistles. I’ve found that an occasional clean up of both surfaces and a fresh coat of vasoline will keep the operation trouble free. Perhaps a good time to do it is when you give the whole whistle a clean out with warm soapy water. I sometimes find there is a reaction with some people’s saliva and the aluminium around fipple plug and mouthpiece. If you are into zen and whistle maintenance it is possible to pull the whole whistle head apart and do a complete clean up, but otherwise, an occasional warm bath is fine.

Yes you are. (so there! nyaah!) :smiley:

I’d be willing to bet the rental instruments made up the bulk of the repairs you performed. Let’s not confuse poorly treated, poorly maintained, low quality, instruments with a proven product like tuning slide grease.

2 things here… 1, brass mouthpieces don’t get greased. They aren’t supposed to move. If they are stuck, it is because they have been percussively set in the lead-pipe of the instrument, which alludes to my earlier comment of the instrument being poorly treated.
and 2, a build up of grease will not freeze a slide. BUT using any amount of oil or cheap, THIN grease like the tubes of crap usually provided with rental instruments will, as you say below, make the slide catchy due to a low viscosity and in most cases result in freezing.

(See above comment on supplies that accompany rented band instruments)

I have been a trombonist for 27 years. I currently sit as the principal trombonist for my local symphony orchestra. I own three different types of trombones with a combined total of 10 tuning slides among the three and two main slides which get an entirely different kind of lube job aside from my points here. (the 3rd instrument is a valve trombone) I use the same type of tuning slide grease on all of them. I have not re-lubed the tuning slides on my symphony horn(which I have owned for 18 years) in about 2 years and they still move as smoothly and freely as when I last serviced them. The original pot of Roche’-Thomas grease I bought in 1980 is still just as soft and greasy as the most recent pot I bought in April this year to keep with a new MK Low whistle. (If just a little darker with age)

I have never had to have any of my instruments un-stuck by a technician at a music store.

In only 5 years, you had hundreds of your instruments needing this service.

Maybe I could be of some help here.

This sounds like a cleaning problem not a lubrication problem. Unless you are using the cheap stuff like I said before. Tiny microscopic bits of metal rub off every time you move the slide if it is poorly lubricated or allowed to oxidize. If you don’t clear that off, it will cause you problems. Oh and by the way the expensive stuff is only about 5 bucks. And will last a lonnnnng time. I have only gotten through about half of what I bought in 1980.

Metal on metal is ok for stuff like curtain rods. For something like a whistle or trombone that you are going to breathe air into, you should really grease the fitting. Hear me out here.

The grease is essentially space filler that even on incredibly tight tolerances (.005 inches on a tuning slide) will create a barrier and keep the metal pieces from touching each other. Because of this they can’t abrade on each other and the surface stays in tact and smooth. Also because this space is filled moisture from your breath won’t be able to oxidize these surfaces either, further promoting smooth operation.

Metal on metal allows all of this bad stuff to happen no matter how well made the slide is.

I should have been more specific here. Melted vaseline is oily. Oil on a slide with tight tolerances will freeze it.

Vaseline melts to a liquid on my skin. My breath is expelled at body temperature. A whistle that I am holding and breathing into will eventually reach my body temperature. Maybe you are not so warm blooded.

What? it’s not like I have something to gain by an up-tick in tuning slide grease sales. The last time I checked, water and grease still repel each other.

I would not take a frozen wooden whistle to a shop that is ill-equipped to handle the job. Here you may be better off sending it back to the maker.

Whoa! let’s stay on track here. I am only talking about TUNING SLIDE GREASE… not cork grease… not trombone slide grease… tuning slide grease. But you are right about people doing whatever they want. I’m just trying to point out an effective technique.

I did. Other people should too.

This may sound pretty silly but it sure seems to work. The trombone player I sit next to in my orchestra goes to Walgreens and buys the “personal lubricant” if you catch my drift, for his tuning slide. Bit of an akward purchase to make, but it works like a charm.

Ah, heck. This one’s too easy. I’m gonna let it pass! :laughing:

eeeeewwwwww.

:laughing: :laughing: :smiley: :laughing: :laughing: