Hello all, I’ve decided to give the flute a try and after some research I’ve decided to start with one of Doug Tipple’s models. I was looking on his website to see what he offered and couldn’t decide between getting the six-hole model or spending the little bit extra for the eight-hole (which I’ve no reservation in doing so). I’ve searched extensively and have not found much in the way of experienced opinions between the two. Some have said that the eight-hole helps with balance and some have said that it’s not enough of a difference to warrent spending the extra cash. Doug claims on his site that he does not detect a difference in tone between the two models. I’m also going to purchase the Tipple-Fajardo Wedge. Does anyone have any experienced opinions to offer between the two extra holes?
I want to start on something that won’t break my wallet (Doug’s Flutes), something that will still sound good enough to not discourage me from playing (from what I’ve heard, Doug’s Flutes), and something that will make a good transition to a traditional wooden flute later on down the line should I become as obsessed with it as I am the whistle.
Flutes with a metal tuning slide or metal-lined headjoint are often head-heavy unless the flute body can be extended by using exhaust ports in a keyless flute. However, because of the lightness of the pvc tuning slide on my flutes, I think that the 6-hole flute feels balanced in the hands.
My apologies Doug, I hadn’t inteded for it to sound that way, I only meant that if I decide later on to invest in a traditional style wooden flute. I do think of your flutes as “proper” flutes based on the wonderful things I’ve heard about them and that is why I am so interested in obtaining one. My apologies for not choosing my words more carefully.
In all seriousness (though I do appreciate the humour), I’m really wondering if there are any pros or cons (as far as playing goes) to the eight-hole model.
I want to start on something that won’t break my wallet (Doug’s Flutes), something that will still sound good enough to not discourage me from playing (from what I’ve heard, Doug’s Flutes), and something that will make a good transition to a traditional wooden flute later on down the line should I become as obsessed with it as I am the whistle.
Hi,
about two years ago I had the same idea. I ordered my Tipple as a starter. Two months afterwards I intendended to participate on a whistle-wokshop. It was completely booked, but there were some places at the flute workshop left. So I switched and to cut the story short got completely hooked. Now I play the whistle only occasionally and the flute on a daily basis.
Mine is the speckled bore variant with six holes, Tipple-Fajardo-wedge included.
I was thinking about getting a lip plate. When switching to wooden flutes I need to change the embouchure angle somewhat. I wonder if the version with a lip-plate comes closer to the embouchure on wooden flutes and facilitates a future transition.
Since my experience is limitted, I strongly encourage more experienced players to coment on this.
Moritz, I have the same flute as you, but I did opt for the lip-plate. Also, I’ve been building my own PVC flutes, which don’t have the lip-plate. These are fun and easy to make and play, but they’re not like the Tipples, (yet).
My conclusion is that both the regular and lip-plated Tipple flutes play great, but I prefer to have the plate. It does feel and sound a bit more like my wooden Casey Burns flute, (amazingly similar, in fact). I’m a huge fan of Doug’s instruments.
I do have one of Doug’s “Delux” 8 hole… and had access to a 6 hole for a while.
Using doug’s actual numbers and emb cut style I’ve made… well lets say more than a few 6 and 8 hole.
I got similar results as one should expect. Although I’m building mine now with liplate and mod’d emb. of my own liking.
Its just fun to noodle around.
Any with regards to the 8 vs. 6 I find little difference… to the ear there is a difference but its very small. The rest is cosmetic really. Looks more “Irishy” I guess. Its why I got my that way.
I made a flute from 3/4 inch PVC, according to Doug’s plans, and I have to use the piper’s grip with my right hand instead of the fingertips. Is this common?
No ciriticism of Doug’s futes intended, but I do find that the balance of my
Casey Burns folk flute is vastly superior to that of my 6 key McGee GLP when it comes to practising my Escrima drills… Both sound good too. Neither hás a lined head and I find that both have very good balance in the hands when playing.
Jim is right about the finger being a little farther apart on cylindrical-bore than they are on flutes with conical bores. However, that does not mean that many good players do not use the piper’s grip for the right hand with all of the larger open-holed flutes. I am an advocate of using piper’s grip with the right hand for a few good reasons. The first reason is that the wrist can be kept in a comfortable, straight position. Secondly, with piper’s grip the fingers are allowed to extend way over the finger holes. This makes the flute self adjusting for different hand and finger sizes. And lastly, if I see good players choosing the pipers grip for the right hand, that tells me that there is probably a very good reason that they chose the pipers grip. Check out Michael Eskin’s new instructional videos and notice how easy and comfortable his right hand fingering appears. Notice also that he uses the piper’s grip on a wooden conical-bore flute. http://www.tradlessons.com/?cat=5
