Hello everyone. I am curious as to how many of the cheapies you all go through until you find that one really good one. I just recently purchased a group of high D’s - Clare brass two piece, Clare nickel, Walton’s Little Black D, Walton’s Guiness, Clarke original in natural, and a Clarke Celtic (which I believe is the same as the Sweetone), and out of all of them only the Clarke Celtic sounds good throughout the entire range. I find that the others really seem to fault at the C and C# whereas they sound very fuzzy. Also a couple of them suffered in the upper register. Is the C and C# the most common problems for the less expensive whistles? Do you just keep buying them until you find a good one(s)? I fear that at $5 ~ $10 a pop, and going through quite a few until I find a good one, I could just spend $100 and get a higher quality whistle. What do you all think? Thanks.
There is merit in both really. Yes you could save up your money and purchase a high end whistle that will most likely give you the sound you want, with the added benefit of being able to have it serviced / tweaked by the maker if it arrives and you feel it needs it.
Yes, I would also agree that C/C# is the most common ‘failing point’ of many of the cheaper whistles, however usually it’s worth taking a shot at taking a very close look at the fipple before just tossing them aside.
Many times, because they are mass produced, there will be very minute burrs left over on the cutting edge of the plastic. Many times, you can simply take a very soft emery cloth and carefully smooth those away and solve the buzzing / breaking problems. There are several other tweaking methods all throughout these forums also.
So it really depends on what you like. Want to try tinkering a bit on a cheap whistle to make it sound right? Go for it. Don’t want to mess with it? Then I’d just save up a bit and get yourself something nice 
Take care,
John
Hi synergy,
depending on your playing experience, a lot of those cheapie whistles that are around usually are not that far off tune that they can’t be blown into tune with the right breath control. Personally, if I try a whistle that requires me to be continually adjusting my breath every second note or more, then I don’t want that whistle. I don’t mind having to adjust one flat/sharp note here and there but if there are more than three notes out, for me it is a dud and I won’t buy.
It usually takes me a couple of minutes playing (if the seller lets me play the thing anyway) to figure out how far the whistle needs to be blown flat/sharp to bring it into tune. I then make a decision based on that.
Most of the cheapies I own are pretty well in tune, but most of them will blow slightly out of tune on certain notes if I play with the same consistant blow across a scale.
It is the little breath adjustments that can bring slightly off whistles back to a reasonable sounding tone and close to being right on key.
Thanks for the replies all. Yeah, a little out of tune I can live with because as stated it can be blown back in tune. However, it’s the notes that don’t come though at all that don’t even sound musical - hence the bad C and C# - which is what I’m referring to more. Another bad thing is that my local music shop doesn’t stock whistles so I have to mail order. It would be nice to be able to try them at the store before buying to find the good ones. My kids just say, “but dad you just gave me two whistles last week . . .”
I’ll have to look for the plastic flash and burrs left behind from manufacturing to see if I can eliminate some of these problems, thanks.
I find that the Cnat/C# are usually the most ‘off’ note on the many cheap whistles I’ve tried.
I know that cross fingering these notes can most times cure the problem but if I cant get the Cnat by either playing oxxooo or half-holing on the top hole, I won’t bother buying.
For the most part they will do a reasonable job for little outlay of cash, it is just the fact that you will bypass many to get that elusive one that is almost in tune and needs almost no tweaking to make them into nice whistles.
Cleaning up all those little burrs and taking a little bit of the sharpness of the leading edge of the blade can make a very big difference to the cleanness of the sound on many cheapies and can alleviate the squeaks and accidental octave jumps.
If you want some reliable in-tune cheapies then order Feadog nickel whistles in D and C.
I’d suggest a Dixon Traditional – not the cheapest of the cheapies, but a great sound and tuneable.
I disagree. I have a Feadog D in Nickel and a Feadog C in brass. I consider both to sound horrible.
They both sound real tinny (as opposed to rich). As far as being in-tune, the D (Nickel) is fairly good, the C (Brass) has some issues. Like I said though, while the sound is in-tune, its quality is horrible.
-Biggie
I’ve always had good luck with Oaks. A quick wisp of sandpaper through the windway to clean up possible debris, a bit of blue tack in the cavity, and it’s good to go.
You already have the answer; you said the Clarke is good. I have never been disappointed in a Clarke Original or Meg (never owned a Sweetone).
I believe, instead of continuing to buy cheapies, it might be wise to play the Clarke and save your bucks for one of the custom whistles they rave about on this message board.
I just don’t get this…am I the only one who’s had really good luck with cheapies? I own about 30 cheapies in keys from high F to Bflat and all play nicely - Clarkes, Gens, Clares, Shaws, Waltons, Sudlums, Faedogs, Oaks, Perris, Susatos, Sweetones (which I like the least). And yes I have twice that many higher enders, only difference being appearance, workmanship and in most cases perhaps a bit more fullness or body or richness of sound overall.
Here’s what I’m getting at - do people sit around doing scales and evaluating these whistles or put them to a tuner and determine them “off” if they’re a certain amount sharp or flat, or are they really playing them and noting really discordant stuff coming out the end of the little guys without being able to blow them into tune? What?
Or am I just hungry, working too hard, and ready for that vacation?
Philo
Phil, the interesting thing is that people giving out about mass produced whistles always recommend the awful Sweetones. Clueless, all of them and talking out of their holes.
Well, i haven’t had any problem with my Little Black D or my mellow D or my susato as far as being in tune. The Cnat and C# on them were a little bit harder to get right but you really have to work on it. It’s all a matter of breath control, and your embochure. (Sorry if i’m wrong because i’m not sure if that’s a whistling term or not, i am used to it from playing flute)
I have a whole set of Generations and the only one that has given me any trouble, real trouble, is the Bb, and that may still just be me but I don’t think so at this stage. It has one off note that just will not be blown to anything even resembling a note.
A pity because I like it apart from that one note. Perhaps I’ll just get another some time to compare…
Mick
No. I bought an Acorn and have been happy ever since.
Of course, I don’t have perfect pitch and I don’t bother blowing into a tuner. I just play tunes. The more I play it the better it works, too.
Phil, the interesting thing is that people giving out about mass produced whistles always recommend the awful Sweetones. Clueless, all of them and talking out of their holes.
Quare stuff Peter! Just what is it that makes Sweetones ‘awful’ for you?
I have one (D) that I get out and play now and again (to compare against what I am presently playing). I had a hard time with the seam down the back of the sweetone, my thumbs got so painful when playing that I ended up laying a piece of black electrical tape alongside the lower part of the seam to try to bring it up level with the higher edge of the seam.
I don’t play with the dreaded death grip, in fact I am so loose in my grip I come close to dropping my whistle every now and then, so grip is not the issue. I can’t say that the Sweetone is the worst whistle I have ever heard, the sound is just not to my taste, although in it’s favour I never had to clean up any debris from manufacture and it is pretty bang on across it’s range and doesn’t need constant breath adjustment to keep in tune.
The thing about them (for me anyway) is that they really are ugly looking, I don’t like the bulky mouthpiece or the overall aesthetics of the whistle. The one I have is black, which isn’t so bad, it’s the other colours available that are just garish! Just my 2 d’s worth though 
Funny how that works, eh?
Mick - Do yourself a favor and hang in a bit and get a nice Gen Bflat - such a fine whistle and generally (no pun intended) the Bflat IMO the best of the line; I have two, one nickel blue tip and one brass red tip and both unbelievable bang for the buck.
Philo
hehe.. i just ordered a Gen Bb in brass two nights ago and it is currently on its way. (i wasn’t sure which one to get, but i went with the brass)
I’ve noticed that C# is a bit flat on a number of the cheapies. This seems by design to keep the Cnat from going to sharp as the tone of both is mainly determined by the top hole. I have carved out the top hole on a couple of cheapies to get the C# to play in tune with even breath pressure but the Cnat then takes either OXX XOX or OXX XXO to be in tune. I’ve come to like that combination. “Cuts” are easy by tapping either the upper or lower open hole (I use the lower one, just sounds better) and movement between Cnat and D is easier. Is there some reason why whistles aren’t made this way? Must all whistles finger Cnat as OXO OOO?