last couple of reeds that i have made are well in tune throughout the scale,but the back d has a rattle to it.i never had to deal with this before,any sugestions on how to remedy this?lips still to thick,or did i go to far with the sanding? 
I think it has been shaved too thin. You can trim a fleas leg width off the lips and then (if necessary) lightly, LIGHTLY sand the scrape to bring the rest of the reed in.
But before altering your reed in any permanent way, try opening the reed up by adjusting the bridle sligthly… not too much, as the result will speak for itself.
Of course, the real trick is to know when to stop sanding/scraping around the lips, but you will get there, I have no doubt.
thank you joseph,if it was easy,i wouldnt like it .
Amen brother. 
I’d agree with that of course, but would also add that breaking back D can be caused by a leak in the reed. Try holding the lips of the reed closed and blowing a mouthful of smoke through - you can see where any leaks might be, and the tar in the smoke will usually fill any small leaks. Quite a scary amount of tar can come from just one mouthful of smoke - I’d give up except I don’t smoke . . . .
I cured someone else’s reed like that yesterday. It leaked from the sides of the head below the bridle. Interestingly the piper in question has often flown with his pipes in the hold with no problems, this time he took them in the cabin with him with the result that his 10+ yr old Hunter reed packed up for the first time. Not what I would expect!
bridle seems to help.i normally dont use traditional bridle,just a wire at the bottom of the reed to open,close the lips.just finished new reed this morning that plays perfectly, mabey not a good thing,tails may not be dry yet.time will tell. thanks all!
And to find the cause of the leak is what you must… Staple taper and staples eye, shoulder shape, if you pay attention there, you reduce all the likelyhood of crackling back D. There’s no magic formula, the tails internal taper and shoulder width will determine how you shape the staple. I tend to make the staple, insert in to the tails, and from the effect it has on the eye of the reed (not even tying the tails yet) I then make adjustments to the staple until it ‘looks’ right. (Photos would help, I cannot describe this satisfactorily in mere words).
IT IS NOT AN EXACT SCIENCE, so try everything that anyone suggests. Some chanters are more prone to back D problems than others, I can make a reed that plays rock steady in my chanter and then stick it another make and crkkkkshklkkkkkkkk gallic shrug.
But anyway, I tend to look to the staple eye aperture, narrowing it to eliminate crackle/croak etc., in a lot of cases.
Question: Does ‘one’ find that a rolled staple tend to be less prone to this than tubing? Thoughts please…
One thing I found with Alan’s reeds was you can untie them (to pull the staple out a little further) and when you stick the staple back in, it fits so perfect and works almost as well untied (holding it in the fingers) as it does when it’s tied (and no leaks). The cane is shaped like a tunnel. Alan must soften the cane before tying, and it dries that way.
Have you tried rolled staples, Alan? I think they are worth the effort in some chanters. Some just won’t work right without them.
Not that I have found to any great degree as of yet… but that isn’t saying an awful lot. Perhaps someone who has loads of years of rolling experience could chime in?
Lorenzo,
Yes I have, and it’s very therapeutic, I no longer polish my guns incessantly! Some chanters definitely don’t come quite right without a rolled one 
. The question was really aimed at seeing if there has was a noted difference between rolled/tubing as regards common reed problems or a recurrence on a theme, as the fundemental difference (for me) is how the eye of the staple shapes up, (tubing being more elongated and perhaps therefore, more prone to problems as the internal of the reedhead above the eye will usually be narrower???). Kind of thinking aloud really.