I simply made a comment about what I have SEEN , I made no claims as to boxwood being anything--------i imagine it would be as you say
i have seen on here worse than that and a simple heavy oil treatment brings it in straight---------
Looks from eBay like someone done gone buyed it.
Aye, 2600 USD = 21000 Swedish crowns = 1.776,73 GBP a very decent price for a near enough new boxwood 8-key Sam Murray with a slight curve, but no wait. Sam’s flutes, in my experience, are great instruments. I assume the new owner is very happy, is it anyone on this forum?. A couple of years ago in Miltown Malbay we met a lady from the north with a boxwood, patent head, Rudall that was straight as a die, maybe because of the wood’s genes, and prehaps because it had spent it’s 160 or so years in England & Ireland’s climate
Congratulations to the new owner – that’s a bargain and a half!
I’ve owned three boxwood flutes and a half-set of boxwood uilleann pipes (two flutes “boiled” and the other flute and pipes not), and I’d say my experience squares with Mr. Gumby’s humidity POV. I’ve also heard and agree with Casey’s statement about the curvy logs. I’ve had several makers tell me it’s hard to find a flute-length boxwood log that’s straight b/c boxwood is basically a shrub that likes to grow on hillsides.
Wikipedia says boxwood is one of the few woods that’s denser than water, FWIW:
Anyway … in my little collection, the flutes that have undergone less-dramatic “humidity culture shock” have curved some but very little; the 1990-ish Murray flute that went from Ireland to Texas is indeed a banana, though the warp is only in the headjoint (it is from Sam’s famed stock of aged boxwood, FWIW, though I don’t know its humidification history – it hasn’t gotten any more warped since I’ve owned it). I generally keep the boxwood stuff between 50 and 60% (too much humidity and the joints will swell; I had an Olwell that was a trifle curved at the footjoint and thus cranky at the socket until it was swedged out.
In my experience the “boiled” boxwood seems to react less dramatically than non-boiled, but it’s still, as one maker’s assistant told me, “the perfect hygrometer.”
One bagpipe drone (also from Ireland) has also taken on a bit of a curve over the 35%-average-humidity winter here (I keep a wee humidifier in its case, but pipes are harder to humidify b/c of their size and reed considerations) but the warp seems less noticeable now that the humidity’s back up to 72% (yippee for it, misery for its player 
) ; the other parts of the set seem fine. But I’ll definitely be faster with the humidification this fall!
So yeah, in my experience “warp happens” in the boxwood instruments that have moved from a damp climate to a drier one. It would seem minimizing “culture shock” through attentive humidification is key. And of course, a good solid hour of daily playing is an outstanding way to achieve this 
On the plus side, boxwood is by far the most “alive”-feeling wood I’ve encountered and the rewards of playing something so light and responsive make it totally worth the little extra attention.