My housemate just got a sliver high D Copeland. It seems to have a moisture problem, if you play if for a while, the upper octave isn’t useable, it just squeaks. Has anyone else had a similiar experience or a cure? Please e-mail me, I’m not on the web very often, if you have a solution that I can pass on to her. It is a beautiful whistle, has a lovely low range and high, when it works! Thanks, John.
These thick metal whistles require warming before they are played. The usual method is to cover the window with a finger, and give hald a dozen good blows into the silenced instrument. I usually cover the 1st 3 holes with my fingers too.
This has two effects. It warms the column of air inside the tube, so the instrument plays slightly sharper, and warms the metal of the mouthpiece, so that vapour in your breath doesn’t condense so readily in the windway.
If the whistle does clog, cover the window & give it a good blow to clear the moisture out, and it should play OK again.
(reply also e-mailed)
One small fries short of a Happy Meal…
[ This Message was edited by: Martin Milner on 2002-07-29 12:06 ]
I think the detergent/Jet Dry method of preventing moisture from clogging the windway may help too (check the main C&F homepage for information, if you’re not already aware of this trick), but you might want to check with the manufacturer first to make sure it won’t damage the metal…I’m not sure if silver is reactive to detergents.
Redwolf
(also emailed)
Cantate Domino Canticum Novum
[ This Message was edited by: Redwolf on 2002-07-29 12:38 ]
[ This Message was edited by: The Weekenders on 2002-07-29 16:04 ]
I’ve been playing my Silver Copeland,for a few weeks, and have found it to be similar in clogging to the Nickle D. You have to prewarm, as was previously mentioned. Otherwise, to my ear, the Silver D’s tone is much sweeter with a beautiful bell note. It takes more breath to hit the higher notes than either the Rose or Burke (but about the same as the Nickle Copeland). It’s easily one of the more beautiful whistles I’ve ever played. There is something about having a practical item made out of a precious metal and no–it doesn’t have additional scroll work! The workmanship is superior. Great job Michael and Jim!! Jim
I have never had a problem with clogging while playing my nickel D, no matter how wet it is. J.
I have had my Copeland Low D and sterling D for two months now and sure low them.
However I also experience clogging and how “severe” that is depends on surrounding temperature. A sunny day outside (if not windy) is usually better that in my livingroom. When I lose the tone on my whistles I either blow hard with a finger on top of window, or simply do a fast and hard “inhale”. At the beginning of a indoor “session” they clogg pretty much, but after my playing have warmed them up it gets a little less (would be nice to get rid of it completely though).
/Peter
Not to be crude, but sucking is better than blowing when it comes to clearing a whistle. Blowing just adds MORE moisture. On a delicate wooden whistle, you are best not to touch the fragile edge which is necessary with the blow technique. Also, the quick suck technique can be applied as needed right in the middle of a tune without taking your fingers off the fingerholes. Warming the whistle, and the detergent or Jet Dry thingies are highly recommended.
On 2002-07-29 16:19, > gaasland@juno.com > wrote:
I have never had a problem with clogging while playing my nickel D, no matter how wet it is. J.
Odd, the only all metal whistle I have is a Copeland Low F, and it’s the only whistle I have had clogs with. Even a few drops of moisture in the airway deadens the tone, but a quick blow to clear it sorts it out, and as long as I keep playing it’s OK after that.
Does the Silver whistle have a narrower airway than the Nickel?
I vote for sucking, too.
On 2002-07-30 07:24, brewerpaul wrote:
Not to be crude, but sucking is better than blowing when it comes to clearing a whistle. Blowing just adds MORE moisture. On a delicate wooden whistle, you are best not to touch the fragile edge which is necessary with the blow technique. Also, the quick suck technique can be applied as needed right in the middle of a tune without taking your fingers off the fingerholes. Warming the whistle, and the detergent or Jet Dry thingies are highly recommended.
well said about the sucking…
sorry i couldn’t put that any other way
“Droplet-Clearing Inhalation?”
“Breath Reversal Technique?”
“Un-Blowing Gambit?”
“De-Moisturizing Intake Method?”