I would like to know if any members have any experience with long hole boring and in making reamers. I have a good lathe, a cold-rolled steel bar, 1.5x1.5x18 piece of African Blackwood and an innate desire to get going. I am a long-time turner, looking for advice. I also have plans from Garvin and Ginsburg. I won’t live long enough to learn myself without learning from the mistakes of others!!! 
Please send me your advice and experience stories for making Uilleann Pipes.
Try the amateur bagpipe makers site at yahoo.com. They have a lot of good info, but it’s been rather dead lately. Anyone write a good lament for the death of the yahoo uilleanpipe group? 
Please…someone…talk to those of us who are starting. I am looking for tips on making reamers. I have enough friends that are tool makers, and I could probably do it myself. But I am looking for design tips, or sources.
Try this :
http://members.iinet.net.au/~nickl/tools.html#Reamers
An the http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amateurbagpipemakers/ is not dead 
… the amount of info in it is self-sufficient to be an amateur bagpipe maker …
Cheers,
Nicolas.
www.itmib.be.tf
Well there dosen’t seem to be much of a response to this topic, so I thought I would register and post something that I learned recently about long hole boring. I too, am an amateur bagpipe maker and am slowly learning the craft. I guess that now is not the time to go into the where and why but rather a little of the how.
The major problem that I encountered in long hole boring was getting the bore straight. I have a small pile of rejects under my lathe, each of which has a curved bore in it. (some you can’t even see light when you sight down them.) The only thing I could find on the net said that the d-bit would wander if to much pressure was used to force the bit into the wood. But without the pressure the bit wouldn’t cut.
The problem turned out to be a plug of compacted sawdust at the bottom of the hole. When I would reach a point about 1/2 to 2/3 through the blank the sawdust would fall off the d-bit as I was removing it and the bit would act as a ramrod when it was re-inserted. This plug would prevent the bit from cutting and when more pressure was applied to compensate, the bit was forced off center.
The solution that I came up with was to use a smaller bit to loosen the compacted sawdust and then run a piece of tubeing the same size as the hole being bored to collect the dust. I had to do this about every 1/4 inch which made the process take longer, but I got straight bores.
One other thing: I would find some cheaper wood to practice on and save the blackwood. If you’re anything like me it will take several tries to get a decent hole.
Brian
Hi Folks,
you’ve probably seen this already but just in case, have a look at this page on Davy Stephenson’s site.
http://www.bagpipeworks.com/drills.htm
Cheers, Mac
Thanks everyone!
Let’s keep this going. I am itching to get going on my first set. I have heard of the D-bit drill, step-drilling and the gun-drill, but as long as the hole is straight, the piece can be returned concentric.
I am going to experiment with making a flat reamer over the weekend. I’ll post my results.
I will pass on anything I learn, and look forward to learning from the experiences of others.
There’s an old saying in aviation (yeah, I’m a pilot), “Learn from the mistakes of others… you won’t live long enough to make them all yourself!”
Happy turning!
Dip the end of the bit in silicone sealant as you work this will remove the dust and any impacted debris,IT IS ESSENTIAL to work slowly otherwisethe bit will follow the grain and ye can quite often end up offcentre so take it easy and ye should be OK
Liam
The boring tool of choice would be a “Gundrill bit” for metal (very pricey!) or “Lamp Auger bit” for wood(these come standard in 5/16ths and 3/8ths at around $40.00. Other sizes are hard to come by.). Set your “browser” for these. Antique or custom “Shell Augers” work well too and are used by Recorder makers after boring the blank from both ends on a lathe.
I prefer to avoid this monster by making bores in 2 halves with a router or shaper/joiner table and “glue them up” with “West System” polyester epoxy. It leaves an invisible seam and the joint is stronger than the wood itself. If you make the rough bore undersized before glue-up, you can follow with conventional “rat tail” reamers in strait or conical shape. Then smooth sand with emory on a wood manderel.
Thomas Hastay.
Uilliam,
I find it interesting that you say “ye”! I am originally from Newfoundland. Its the eastern-most Canadian province, and “ye” is the usual form of “you” when we choose to speak our natal dialect. Ireland has much influence around the world - especially “across the pond”, thus my interest in all things Irish (and I am a redhead too).
Once again, thanks to all who have replied.
I have crafted a flat reamer out of cold rolled steel now. It looks pretty good (but took over 2 hours to grind). I am going to put my African Blackwood on the lathe tomorrow and turn it round. I don’t have a gundrill bit, but may order one before I do the initial bore.
Once this is done, would it be OK to use D-bits or another type to step drill? I believe that the more wood one can remove before reaming, the better.
I’ll take some pics with the digicam and post when I can.
Regards and thanks to all,
Carl
I say practice a few rounds on ‘cheap wood’ until you get things perfected.
Tony,
Good advice! I may reconsider my African Blackwood and leave it under my pillow for a few more weeks!
Carl
Dear Tony,
What “cheap” wood would you suggest that will still give a decent idea of what sound you’ll end up with in more expensive woods?
Also a bit of coat hanger straightened out might be good for clearing out dust from the turning bore.
It’s not the sound… it’s making sure the bit works and becoming comfortable a technique that can be repeated.
Maple, Cherry or Honduras Mahogany are easily obtained and should the process work, could make decent prototype instruments. I’m thinking Aonach may do a bunch of these ‘broomsticks’ just to get the feel of the machinery and tooling.
Expect most of the early prototypes to end up in the trash. I’m not making this sound negative… just realistic. It’s said without emotion.
Aonach I think you will try different fabrication methods and when you strike on something you like that piece of African Mahogany will come out from hiding.
A few years ago my band played the music for the dance scene in “Desire Under the Elms” for the drama department at the University. O’Neill’s play is set in old England, with lots of “ye” this and “ye” that in it. During rehearsal, I overheard some of the students combining some old English with some modern slang. The one that tickled my funny bone the most I think was to hear some college kid say “f_ _k ye” to one of his class mates, in his deep, serious, dramatic voice. It almost sounded religious! 
Carl I would hope that ye would find my tip more interesting than my dialect??I tend to use the term “YOUS” more often than not in speech and YE in writing.
Slan go foill
Liam 
Dear Uilliam,
I have some friends in Philadelphia who also use “yous” as in yous guys. This has been shortened over time to yugs. Strange language we speak.
I thought ‘youz’ guys was a NYC Mafiaoso thing…
“Hey youz guys need to be down at the docks mixin’ cement for a new arrival” Capice?