I just took delivery on a Kerry Pro in low F that I bought used on this forum. Fisrst impressions are smooth velvety tone, the chiff is just right for my likings, finger spacing is comfortable with piper’s grip and that relates to ease of play. The air requirement seems fairly high though that could be relative to my experience level on low whistles. There seems to be a nice smooth transition between octaves without much unwanted shift, that which does occur might be the result of breath control issues. The low F is a bit touchy and requires specific breath control. Overall, I love the tonal quality of this Kerry Pro and think that it allows for great flexibility of expression and will lend itself well to the playing of airs. Phil Hardy certainly did some wonderdul work on this whistle and it is sure to become one of my favorites.
My question regarding the tuning slide is that upon pulling it out a couple of mm, it appears the slide is constructed of aluminum on aluminum. I don’t know if cork was ever employed in any of the Kerry tuning slides and I am reluctant to pull it out very far. It seems that I read somewhere that cork slides should never be pulled out completely. I am pretty sure this slide is all aluminum. Can I seperate the two parts of the whistle just for the purposes of cleaning without causing any damage? When cleaned and prior to joining the two halfs back together, what is the appropriate lubricant for the slide. Will cork grease work? Is there any reason to use teflon plumbers tape? I just want to take proper care of this great whistle and get the optimum performance out of it.
There should be no harm in pulling it out completely. If the tenon is corked, or if you don’t know how it is constructed, take care doing so and I advise to use a twisting action. If the slide is really made alu on alu then I think it is essential to take it apart regularly, to clean the surfaces and to grease them with cork or slide grease. Otherwise they may start sticking permanently together, with the parts expanding due to corrosion of the surfaces.
If there is enough space use some plumbing tape (thin teflon tape), and renew this as needed.
If the fit is tight and does not allow for at least one layer of plumber’s tape, I would be inclined to thin the tenon just a little, using metal wet-and-dry sanding paper, in order to get enough space for some layers of plumber’s tape, because I find sliding alu on alu can lead to scratches too easily, or it can get stuck.
I never heard that a corked tenon should not be pulled out. It needs to be pulled out, using a twisting action, and greased from time to time. Recorders and flutes with cork joints need to be disassembled after use, to allow the cork to expand after being compressed. But I don’t know if Kerry Pro whistles use corked tenons. I use a material called tech-cork (a cork and synthetic rubber compound) on all the tenons of my aluminium whistles, fitted in a shallow groove. This makes for a nice firm slide, which can be left assembled.
Think this advice might have come (oddly enough when he offers some interchangeable bodies) from Phil himself, though not sure where (possibly his old site?) because I can’t find it now. So guessing (if it was Phil) that he was stating the obvious ‘don’t pull it out too far or it will come apart’ rather than ‘you’ll break your whistle’, although it could equally well have been ‘you don’t want to get dirt and stuff grinding in there’…
As for the corked v metal-to-metal thing, my understanding (again from source unknown but probably Phil’s old site) is that his early tuning slides were all-metal but more recent ones are corked, and my Chieftains are certainly all corked. So I’d just take it apart and have a look, cleaning and relubricating if necessary for smooth reassembly.
Hans and Peter,
You have my thanks for your very helpful answer to my question. I believemthis whistle was purchased by the original owner some time in 2010. That of course still may not accurately say when Phil Hardy made this particular whistle. Also not sure if he was using cork at that point. I have a strong suspicion that the slide is aluminum to aluminum.
I will follow your instructions in disassembley, cleaning, lubricating, and taping the joint if space allows. I assume the tape is to ensure as leak free seal. The whistle seemed to be spot on with the slide pushed all the way in when I played it yesterday.
I won’t get to it today as I will be off to a college soccer (football) women’s game today with my wife and daughter.
Does anyone know if Phil Hardy posts on C & F and under what user name? I would prefer to send him a private message on this forum as opposed to an email at Kerry Whistles.
Feadoggie,
ROGER on the status. Understood that Phil is a busy guy. I am sure he won’t mind hearing some positive feedback on one of his Kerry Whistles as time allows.
Peter and jmiller,
Thanks for your input. I will follow the directions that have been indicated. I will post up what I discover on this whistle once I have taken it apart.
My Kerry Songbird Low D is corked and fits very tightly. The joint needs to be twisted and pulled apart in order to clean the whistle and lubricate the joint. The joint needs to be lubricated every few months to keep it from sticking.
Thanks for all the help with your replies, I took the whistle apart yesterday and it did indeed have a ring of thin cork that surrounds the tuning slide. Lubricated with some cork grease. This whistle sounds awesome.
Status: It’s complicated.