Harp Question. . .

Those of you who primarily play trad stuff, what tuning do you use? and. . . why?


Here’s the deal - a lot of my favorite whistle tunes have passages that go back and forth between C and C#. . .it creates a really nice shift of modality that gives these tunes their kick. (E.g. the Old Bush or Poll Ha’Penny.) Anyways, with a harp tuned in C, on could theoretically flip up levers on the C (duh ) and B to preserve this possibility. In other words, use the B# enharmonically to play Cnatural.

Is it worth foregoing the flat keys for this little trick?

I’m just a bad amateur harpist, but good harpists I know will use tricks like the one you suggested, retuning in between sets to pull off certain pieces.

Keeping a lot of levers flipped can have a dulling effect on the sound, so players that want to maximize their resonance might prefer a tuning with fewer flats.

I keep my harps tuned in C, and have levers on C and F. Playing primarily Irish music, I haven’t found that I’ve really needed the flat keys. I know many harpers tune to Eb, however.

Redwolf

modal shift - I like that phrase. thanks.

Yes, if at the end of the day you are tuned for C maj. and the C# is gonna be difficult to play tune the C up to C# and then instead of playing the C when it is needed, play its perfect 5th, the G. This may work magically on some pieces.

Oh man! Just try it!

(You westerners always want the rationale and when its given complain about theory!)

You can also consider it practice in lever flipping. Assuming you have levers on your C’s, it should be fairly easy to change the ones you need for the C# passages (you probably won’t need to flip all of them). Good levers shouldn’t deaden the sound, any more than fretting a guitar string properly does.

Sometimes too, in a piece of music, you’ll find that you really only use one string to play those C# notes, in which case you can just preset that lever and either play the other C’s an octave up or down, or do as Talasaiga suggested and play the perfect fifth.

Redwolf

Yeah, that threw me too, Redwolf. If the lever is functioning properly it should not have a deadening effect. If there is one, the first thing I would check is the break angle of the string as it passes over the lever peg. If the angle is very shallow to the point of being almost non-existant, then it may result in a dead sounding string

Hi there Wormdiet.

Your solution to using both C’s, using your levers enharmonically, is completely viable. Don’t feel that you have to be hemmed in by one particular tuning, or technique because others use it. Explore different possiblities and find what works for you. Conformity is the opposite of creativity. Here’s some food for thought…

As blasphemous as this will sound to many, the unquestioned need for sharpening levers and lever changes has long baffled me as a harper. Useful as can be, they are not with their own set of woes. None of my harps have them, and I don’t miss them. Frequently there are better and more idiomatic solutions to be found. Talasiga’s useful idea of using other available notes ( ie. A fifth or other related notes) is well worth remembering; this has ample precedence in traditional music and older approaches to harping.

Similar issues face players of other traditional instruments. Pipes, whistles, keyless flutes have varying “limitations” chromatically and frequently resort to trickery to achieve or avoid accidentals. Some of their solutions to these problems are informative for we harpers.

Remember this too: If you aren’t playing with others you can often play tunes in another key. Other traditional musicians do this, I play D and A major tunes in C tuning all the time. Many the fluter and uilleann piper will play A and E major tunes in G or D to make them manageable on their instruments.

Some tunes do sound better with both forms of a note. One trick I’ve used to accommodate both C’s on wire harp with no levers, simply assign them to different octaves, with one C string being tuned natural and the other sharp. An octave might look like this from middle C: C# D E F G A B C natural. (You could reverse this too having the sharp c on the high string.) Breaking up the accidentals this way also helps avoid having a ringing minor second, and can be used with both F’s or both B’s. This could be just as easily achieved on nylon harp by retuning or using levers.

As Redwolf pointed out, there isn’t much call for flat keys in trad music. You can tackle just about anything with only tuning to C,G, and F. By tuning to G, due to the modal nature of most of the music, without levers, you can negotiate about 80 percent of Irish dance tunes, even playing with session with others. A large number of tunes that are written with two sharps, (particularly Dma, Emi dorian tunes) avoid the sharp seventh or use it sparingly. More often than not, you can skip these notes without anyone noticing. Take Morrison’s Jig for example. Most of the tune avoids the C# and you can play the whole tune just as well by replacing it with another note like B or D. Even more tunes are accessible by using the solutions mentioned above.
Have fun!!!

Interesting. . .

If trad were the limits of my interest, I’d probably go with just a straightforward C tuning.. . . but I also intend to use it for early music. I have a bunch of music from my college ensemble days that’s lying around. A lot of it is in F, so I decided to use F as a compromise tuning. the good thing - if it doesn’t work - it’s easy to retune!

Good deal! Early music and trad share much common ground. I wish more musicians were interested in both.

Say, given the bray harp any thought? ( After fiddling around on mine, one of my students declared " This is what happens when you leave sitars and harps in the same room for too long…they mate! ")
Here’s a nifty article on playing medieval harp
http://www.harpspectrum.org/historical/fulton_long.shtml

Take care,
CM

I spent a loooong time pondering what to start off with. I went with a typical nylon hap because they are perhaps a bit more flexible, and I was/am concerned about learning good technique. Since there are a lot more nylon folks around (ie. . . teachers), it seemed the wiser choice. But yes, a bray harp is definitely on the wish list!

So how does the technique differ, anyway?

I spent a loooong time pondering what to start off with. I went with a typical nylon hap because they are perhaps a bit more flexible, and I was/am concerned about learning good technique. Since there are a lot more nylon folks around (ie. . . teachers), it seemed the wiser choice. But yes, a bray harp is definitely on the wish list!

So how does the technique differ, anyway

True, many people find the nylon lever harp more user friendly than other types of harp. Finding teachers of other types of harp can be a challenge if not downright impossible in some places.

But, keep in mind there are many " good" techniques, even on lever harp, each with there own pros and cons. Sadly, players get really dogmatic about one versus another. For instance, some classical harpists still stubbornly mantain that theirs is the only “real” technique! :confused:

The bray harp is underrated musically and capable of great variety and depth.

Well…there are a few ways to play a bray harp. There seems to be two main styles of historical technique. Using finger pads one plucks, or more accurately presses the strings in the same way one plays the lute. This results in a much more upright hand position, which sounds odd but works quite well. Check out a lute tutor for details. I think I’ve seen a website online that show how this is done.

The other old approach is using fingernails in the same way one plays the wire strung harp. Fingernail technique was not limited to ancient Ireland Scotland, and Wales or to wire strung instruments. It was mentioned by early mainland European sources and produces a very appealing tone on the gut or nylon strings. Both these historical methods yield good tone and mobility.

Some do play with the same technique used on pedal/lever harp. The problem with this approach is that most bray harps (i.e. those built like the old surviving one) are strung lightly and have fairly narrow string spacing, very much a wire harp. “Normal” harp technique usually results in overplaying and problems with articulation. Luckily, learning and using both “classical” and “Early” fingerpad techniques on the different instruments is fairly easy!