ok, let me start by saying thank you for all the help so far. i am trying to diagnose a hard reed. i have been on the pipes for a week, i know time and patience, but if i have had this much issue keeping my highlands going i would have switched or scraped the reed. i just feel like im always rapidly pumping the bellows. i am used to the squeezing of the bag from the other beast. in a preveouse thread i had a leak that has been corrected and i can not find another one so it must be a hard reed. you can hear the air rushing out the chanter with out a sound made.
again thanks for the help
Firstly, scraping the reed is not a first step. If you scrape the reed in the wrong place or too much you’ll ruin it. It’s a newbie error to scrape the reed and ruin it.
You’re first step should be to contact your pipemaker. I suspect he’d much rather give you advice than have to make a new reed.
You can adjust the reed by manipulating the bridle (the metal or wire band around the reed just over the binding). However, the type of adjustment depends on the type of bridle you have. Your pipemaker will tell you how to adjust the reed (either by sliding the bridle up or down the reed or by tightening or loosening the grip of the bridle with a pliers).
It may just be that the reed needs to be played in. This can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks, depending on how often you practice. In general a reed which is stiff at the start will last longer. I have had reeds last 3 or 4 years and I live in fairly rough climate for reeds.
Riley,
Sounds like your reed is too open at the lips. If you feel brave, Like PJ said, try adjusting it. Slide the bridle down ever so slightly to close the lips of the reed a bit. Using pliers can work too but is dangerous territory for a newbie. Is your bridle solid copper or wire? Be very, very careful. When the reed lips are too open it takes lots of pressure to get them vibrating and if this is the case, simply playing it in won’t solve the problem. Learning to adjust your reed is an important part of the game.
Good luck
GB
ill try moving the bridle. i think my pipemaker deserves a break from me for a few days 
. i am not shy to ask questions and he has been really great with a few issues. the whole scraping thing is for highlands, these reeds are nothing like highland reeds. $7 compaired to 50-80. trust me, its like im defusing a bomb here 
very gentle. thanks for the help. i was hoping it wasnt me.
edit: well after scrutinizing the bag i found another leak. i sent the maker a email and we will take it from there.
From my own experience,
The very first thing you do before you attempt to perform any reed adjustments or alterations is ALWAYS CHECK TO MAKE SURE YOUR SET IS AIR TIGHT!!!
(1) Chanter Top…Take the chanter top and blow on the bottom of it to make sure that is not leaking out of the ornamentation that’s at the top of the chanter top.
(2) Bellows…Make sure your check valve is in the correct position, and that the gusset of the bellows is not leaking air. Strap the bellows on and attach the bellow connection. Place your finger over the whole of the bellow connection and begin to pump the bellows. If there is a tight seal; you should have a difficult time completing one pump of the bellows.
(3) Bag…Make sure your bag is tight. Cover the hole of your chanter stock with your finger and blow the bag up with your bellows; wait to see if it holds the air in the bag.
(4) Bellows Connection…Check for a proper seal by making sure there is sufficient hemp to provide a proper seal into the bag and bellows, and if there is a check valve in your bellows connection; make sure it’s in the proper position and functioning properly.
(5) Chanter Keys (if applicable)…If your chanter has keys; make sure there are not sticking and have a good seal to the chanter. Blow on your chanter while the chanter is seated on your knee and the reed is OUT of the chanter you should have a hard time blowing on the chanter if the chanter keys are properly sealed.
(6) Popping Strap…Make sure you have a popping strap or anything that creates a seal to the bottom of your chanter when it’s on your knee; if you do not, then you will have a difficult time reaching the second octave especially with a “hard reed”.
You must keep this in mind; the climate of the player might differ from the climate of the pipe maker therefore the set will go through an adjustment process once it reaches its final destination. It’s best not to make any intrusive reed adjustments i.e. reed scraping, bridle changes, until the reed acclimates to its new climate.
If I have left something out or if there is anything that might be added; I’m sure the forum will “chim” in.
Good Luck!!!
Very true. From my restauration experiance, however, I must say that even the whole reed-matter isn´t the first step yet but checking the set´s pressuretightness. If you have to pump like a colibri any reed feels hard whereas in a set that is pressure-tight like a tyre even a harder reed can feel fairly soft (and cause less trouble). Mind the difference between “airtightness” and “pressuretightness” - the “air-loss-graphs” (linear/exponentiell) are different: a good reed (comparable to a valve) has a fairly constant “air-loss-graph”, wheras a (even small) leak tends to loose more air the harder you squeeze. You especially feel the difference in the second octave.
ya. i did find another leak in the bag. i have emailed the maker and were rectifying the issue. i always tell my ghb students and band that a hard reed does not mean your good just struggling. i would rather an easy read so i can play longer. thanks again for the help.