“Best of both worlds, eh?” I expect that is for the cutlery or something, because I don’t think wood is very dishwashable…and having a maid is seen as extravagant nowadays, and a servant as oppressive, and a butler won’t do the dishes either. Anyway, how are you going to volunteer to do them, or punish someone into doing them, with a machine there ?
I was once in a house that had one, and I found the ceremony very cold and uncommon compared to someone actually washing up.
Robin Wood must be his real name I think, and it leaves me guessing. Before turning bowls he was a wood keeper as well, so not a wood thief. So that leaves Wood of Robins, and also Robin Hood. I’ll go with the Robins.
Apparently it was not always green wood they turned
https://www.chilternsaonb.org/news/377/19/Stories-of-the-Bodgers.html
and for my part the only reason I don’t bore and turn the wood when green is that I cannot keep up with the amount I find (so it is left to dry), or also that I find already seasoned wood. Ideally, and I would have to get drying conditions right, I would want to bore and turn to near diameter when green, then allow to dry (or season even) in a way that didn’t alter shape much (so far they don’t) and then just give the blank a light finishing. If I turned them before boring though, the wood might split for drying fast and not being able to contract around center. For all of it though, the difference more than anything is just time. Harder wood, more time and so more effort taken, but in terms of being doable it makes little difference I think…maybe slightly different tools or technique.
In the turners manual above it is all fully dry hardwood. That is all done with pole lathes or eq., your photo also. It is a shame there is no close description available from early flute makers, but there they would be shaving off fractions of a mm cleanly with chisel or similar. Tighter grain of heavy hardwoods might have made that work cleaner, I don’t know. Near dry olive is the hardest I have worked and that was ok. For my part, if the wood is turning cleanly I will take it close to finished, but if it is rough in any way I resort to more sanding, or sometimes just leaving around knots for extra sanding.
I much prefer shaping by eye and tuning by ear, but there is usually a point where I start to take some basic measurements or compare with a tuner. With all that paraphernalia like tuning slides, keys, tenons and so on I’m not surprised some are counting the fractions though .
At least guitar players will be familiar with tuning to some degree, the more so if not relying on a tuner for that.
This site tries to sort out the origin of bodger
http://www.potterwrightandwebb.co.uk/wood-2/a-bodger-is-not-a-botcher
It’s a real shame to see heritage destroyed. Personally I don’t much go for the reconstruction scene, that is I think after experience of how they are in the states about that, where history sort of doesn’t much go back before 16th century or so, and most physically existant is from later. I don’t begrudge it either, because in a few centuries those buildings really would have been something exceptional if maintained, and there is nothing wrong at all with recreating a setting and associated crafts…grief, as expat I am very used to having to improvise own customs abroad in whatever way possible, and also am attentive to national historic presence in whatever form. I think in Oz it is still the same to a degree, even if it is now own country, and I think australians are generally much more down to earth than americans, who seem to have their own special approach to it all.
Well, I probably set the stage for some argument there but not on purpose. It’s just one perspective and who am I to say really.