embouchure blade...?..

Irish Flute
1

my new M&E R&R has arrived and i’ve noticed that the upper amobouchure blade is not sharp (like the toneholes, a bit of rough work).
i’ve seen and played several flutes with a sharp blade…
what’s the benefit of the M&E embouwhatever?
any other flutes like this?
??
??? :confused:

2

contact the maker about this.

berti

3

I think you’re talking about the embouchure chimney. Those vary drastically. They come in different styles.

It’s highly unlikely that Michael Cronnolly is sending out “rough work.” He makes his flutes himself. They are not made by a pack of ninnies in his shop. What you see there is undoubtedly the normal design of his flute. He intended it to be that way. He made it that way so as to get the best sound out of it.

Tone holes and embouchure holes are hand-carved, not drilled in cookie-cutter fashion by a machine. They are not necessarily symmetrical, nor even smooth.

The only problem I could think of with that flute is that you got it used from someone who altered it or it came through customs in your country and the customs inspectors had a go at it before sending it on to you.

I agree with Berti that you should contact the maker. Let him assure you that it is supposed to look that way. He can explain why a lot better than I can.

4

The acid test is whether the flute is playable and sounds good. Get and experience player to give it a shot.

M & E’s are not aesthetic masterpieces - they are the Honda Civics of the flute world - very dependable. The emphasis is on playability and tone rather than looks.

5

A sharp embouchure edge stands some chance of making a hissy tone. Some of them need dulling. (By the builder, though, not anyone else.) I would love to read about how to cut an embouchure, but as far as I know that information doesn’t exist in writing.

My discoveries so far consist mostly of:

  1. Drill a much smaller hole than you will end up with.
  2. While the angle of the “working” edge should be sharp (or at least can be), the edge itself probably shouldn’t be.
  3. Undercutting tends to make it easier to get a tone and brings out the lower register.
  4. If you return the flute to the lathe after cutting the embouchure hole, keep your hands away from it. (Ouch!!)

– Don

6

thanks, amigos!
i’ve sent an e-mail to mr. cronolly… anyway, waiting for the maker’s explanation, the sound is good, the undercut doesn’t seem to be accidental…
it’s a slight undercut all around the hole..
I don’t know, this is more a question for M&E players…

7

I know what BullFighter is talking about. Delrin is hard to work,
and probably doesn’t smooth as easily as wood. So the walls of
the fingerholes look “rough” (as in “not smooth”) to the eyes. But
it sure doesn’t hurt the sound! Michael does seem to be able to
smooth the sides of the embouchure chimney prety well, though.
I don’t know if this is because the hole is bigger and easier to
work, or if this is the only hole that NEEDS to be smoothed…
Come to think of it, maybe the roughness in the fingerholes helps
complexify the sound?

8

I picked up my M&E from Michael in person a few months ago. Mine too has the sort of dulled blowing edge on the chimney that you’re talking about. I was worried at first glance but was reassured when he made it sing beautifully. Since then I’ve been able to approach the tone I heard from Michael, so I figure it’s just “character”.