Chanter reed mystics

what causes this, my reed is now as deep it can be in a reedseat, back d is still abit flat ,and first oct. ,a,g,fis are sharp.others are quite well in tune
If closing reedlips back d became verey sensitive to pressure and weak.
How to get back d sharper and reed moore up from reedseat to have more kind a “tuningspace”?
shorten staple… shorten reed?

Patrick Sky has a few things to try in his freely available ebook - http://www.patricksky.com

Possibly your bridle has slipped down. If so, push it back and fix it (by carefully squeezing or some wax underneath - never use glue). Don´t cut anything - never do irreversible things (to a poor, little reed).

it’s wiretype bridle so it is it’s correct place, temperature and humidity variating now huge scale here +32 to +9during 2 weeks.perhaps my reed don’t like it.

Difficult to analyse from distance. Was the reed ever good? Lips are not too wide?

  1. Check total lenght of reed (82 mm)
  2. Tune lower octave ‘a’ to 440 Hz (if concert pitch)
  3. Back D should be not flat, rather sharp or perfect,
    otherwise eye of staple might be opened too much
  4. Check high ‘a’, ‘g’ und ‘b’
    If sharp, then at perfect 440 Hz staple width is too open
    Does this help a bit?

Hi Mikko,

The sharp first octave notes (i.e. relatively flat second octave notes) and flat back d suggest that the reed is a little too closed. This is probably a weather-related change. But it’s also possible that something else has changed - make sure the reed is not damaged, nothing has shifted in the bore (for instance a bit of wax or a bell rush, etc.)

The tuning relationship between A and back d is sensitive to the degree of reed openness, so you will need to keep this in mind. Back d should not be sharp. Opening the reed a tiny bit is likely to sharpen the back d relative to other notes, and will flatten the sharp G, A, etc. in the first octave. This is what I would try first, judging from your description - a very small change should be enough. You can open the reed lips with your fingers, at least temporarily, if you are careful not to let the reed slip. But don’t squeeze the wire bridle using fingers - use pliers very gently for this. Parallel-jaw pliers are ideal.

I don’t think you should attempt to shorten the reed, in your situation - you could easily end up without a working reed.

I don’t know what you mean by “+32 to +9”, are you referring to temperature or to humidity? Celsius or Farenheit?

Face it, in your climate you should probably learn to make your own reeds! :wink:

This is a very often scenario; you have a wonderful reed that works for months (sometimes years) and then suddenly back D becomes flat. Exactly this happened to all the reeds I received with my chanters. Since you have a reference reed from a great maker. I would not modify that original reed. I’d simply make another set of blank reeds and I’d start scraping them for my chanter. Eventually, you will have a (great) working reed. Another option would be to start arranging a trip to your maker. The Sooner the Better.
Have fun,
Miki

Just came back from Kaustinen Folk Festivals where I have few gigs…back D just went flatter and flatter, even other notes /scale quite nice in tune and powerfull sound ..but ..after some adjustment with my one spare- reed..Thank’s Bill :wink: …got everything pretty well in tune with band ,and having great gigs there.
Perhaps the old reed is now it’s journeys end :confused: R.I.P

This is not fair. I’ve just started being interested in this project.
Here is my today solution:

I did not want to remove the old bridle on a reed that worked anyway great. I just added a temporary second bridle on top of the old one, and this solved the problem of flat back D.

put also extra wirebridle on old reed… voila “lost back d” rise again :slight_smile: