I started on the pipes two months ago, and I’m dealing with a back D problem: it is very flat, more like a C#. Also the C# fingering sounds more like a Cnat.
Opening up the bridle fixed it and gave me lots of volume as well, but made it impossible to hit the second octave let alone stay there.
As a result, I closed the reed a bit and started to simply use C# fingering for Cnat, back D for C#, and Eb (second octave) for back D. It’s a little “quiet” up there, but at least it’s in tune and I can use the second octave again.
So, is this alternative fingering a good idea for a beginning piper? I am hoping that humidity is the cause of the problem (really muggy here this summer) and that it might sort itself out in the fall…
Humidity causes similar issues on my chanter, the solution appears to be to push the bridle towards the top of the reed (thereby opening the reed) and if it’s then too hard, squeezing the bridle shut a touch.
Although I think perhaps I’ve also tried doing exactly the opposite with some results.
Basically play with the bridle!
Editting to add, go find Jeremy Keddy, get him to help you out.
Who made your pipes? It might be worth while having a new reed made. Getting to a tionol and hopefully getting a new reed made would also be a good idea.
There are fingerings to raise pitch and lower pitch of notes but your situation sounds too extreme for them to do any good. You can experiment with them and remember that all chanters and reeds are different and will respond that way.
Back d to the left:
o oxx xxxx x | o oxx oxxx x | o oxx xoox x | o xxx xoox x | o xxx xooo x | o xxo xxxx x | o xox xxxx x
You can go on and on with this. As I said experiment and see what helps in your sitcheeation.
The pipes are by CJ Dixon, so I’m not going to assume anything is defective. I’ve already contacted him and got advice on how to work the bridle - which is a wire one, not the sliding kind.
Tried opening the reed some yesterday but got a different result from the last time. Volume went up and it got harder to play, but the notes in question stayed flat. Closed it down again now.
I can hear a difference with the fingering options above, but my situation is a bit too “extreme” as you say. Squeezing the **** out of them seems the only way for me to sharpen those flats…
Does Jeremy sort of look like a wrestler? I think I saw him playing at the Old Triangle a few weeks back.
Have you tried seating the reed further in?
Was it like this since you got it? Personally I think your wasting your time trying to get by with such fingering. concentrate on technical exercises on the other notes that work till you get it sorted IMO.
I always recomend any piper to have a selection of reeds to choose from. Three is my minimum number to feel reasonable assured.
yeah…frustrating situation to be in w/no one to suss it out nearby. I agree with Fiddlerwill. Work on some of the other things for right now and start making plans to either meet up with someone “who can,” (sort the reed issues) and/or as Pat says, do your best to get to a tionol! i’d imagine going off into the proverbial wild-blue-yonder…off to a pipers gathering where you know no one is not the easiest thing to do, but we’ve all been through it and it is by far, the most worthwhile experience you’ll have (as a new piper)!
Sounds like a normal problem. My advice is to try and fix the reed. As long as it remains in the shape that it is in, it will drive you nuts, so you may as well take a chance to fix it…even if you ruin it in the process. Download my reed adjusting pamphlet (its free) http://www.patricksky.com
First… remove the wire bridle and replace it with a adjustable bridle…most bridles are of copper and are around 1/8" wide. Adjusting the bridle upward shortens the head and sharpens the D. Or you can leave the wire bridle and install an adjustable bridle just above it.
Second… measure the overall length of the reed, it should be no longer than 3 1/4" inches. If it is longer then you can trim the reed lips to bring in the back D. Most of the time the reed can be trimmed down to a 3 3/16" length. If you decide to trim the reed do so in steps…around 1/32" at a time.
Thanks for the feedback guys, and the reed manual is fantastic Pat. All kinds of great tips in there, and it helps to take the fear out of it. I’m starting to assemble my surgical equipment now.
I was going to try molding the staple binding first to make it fit deeper and see if that helps, but then I discovered something else…
The lips of the reed have actually slipped sideways, less than 1/16th inch but noticeable. Not sure how I missed this before.
Today, I will attempt to open the bridle and ever so gently massage them back into proper alignment.