Brass repair

Hello all,

I have a question for any pipemakers out there. :slight_smile:

What is the best way to attach brass together, with silver solder?
I’ve heard this silver solder is mighty strong any suggestions. I want to have repair done while maintaining esthetics.

upiper71

Yes, silver solder is generally what’s used to join brass, but you can use other solders. Not lead though as it’s probably not strong enough. If you use a separate flux, be sure to neutralise it after soldering to avoid corrosion. The watchmaker I used to work for just used to use saliver to do this (by spitting on his finger first, not by licking the join!!! :smiley:) , but I’ve read plain water is just as effective. Even if your solder contains flux, it’s still a good idea to neutralise it in this way.

Thank you sir, just what I needed to know..:slight_smile:

upiper71

Use citron acid (20% ,warm) or sulphuricacid(9%) after soldering(depends whatkinda solderinliquid etc. you use)
Use borax(=solderingliquid) to prevent seam or surface oxidacing when heating, if you use “hard” solder(900c and over). Some "easy (610c and below) soldering sticks has
borax type solderingpaste on it. Don’t heat too much with torch when using easy solder, becouse small holes in seam=weak , and it can leaks also from there.Don’t use saliva, itcould be use perhaps tiny small seams, but does not work when soldering parts/seams together.
Remember use enough solderingliquid on parts, it helps polishing etc. work later, (you can even polish parts before soldering ,and surfaces stays good after).

Or at least he never tried it a second time… :astonished:

maybe I’ll give a try thanks guys…soldering it first…I’ll use a damp colth to wipe instead of flooding my body with toxins.. :slight_smile:


Daryl

This is a re-print from a similar question asked by Brian. I’m too lazy to type it out so cut an paste works just fine:

You might have better luck and stronger results if you cut or fabricate the pieces yourself to fit well and have them brazed together by a local friendly jeweler. Brazing takes place at much higher temperatures than regular soldering and is much stronger. I would suggest using a 10K or 14K medium gold solder as brass doesn’t like to cooperate as much with silver solder and it will give you a better colour match. If you scrape all the old lead solder bits off your old windcap you could have that brazed back together. All the lead has to be removed though, otherwise it has a tendency to volitize under torch heat and drill pits right through the metal. A jeweler will also polish the finished piece nicely for you.
Marc