In my line of business, I’ve designed store fixtures and display cases using anodized aluminum (mostly clear) and for the higher priced work polished lacquered brass or polished stainless steel.
I haven’t paid much attention to the metals used in pipes… I guess I’m OK with brass. There is a mystique of aged brass that often takes on a dulled greenish patina. I usually polish my pipes a few times a year so I won’t get to that point.
There’s a specialty woodworking supply I often get materials from, that sells chemicals to create patina finishes. I’ve heard some horror stories about corrosion and improper bonding (loose flakes) to some brass alloys, so I’ve put that out of my mind.
Some people don’t like the smell of brass, especially after you’ve handled it a while.
I don’t find it offensive, certainly less than the processed vomit smell one of my hide bags gives off!!
Over the years I’ve seen different names for various metal alloys used… these terms meant little to me until I saw Seth Gallagher’s updated webpage last week. http://www.uilleann.com/
On the front page… well, go there. It needs no explaination.
So, what are these metals made of? and from a pipemakers perspective, which is/are the best to work with?
Brass=copper+zinc
Nickel=nickel+?
I’m told nickel is often called white brass and still called nickel silver thought it contains no real silver
German silver=Copper+nickel+zinc
Sterling silver=92% silver+?
Stainless steel=chromium+nickel+titanium
Copper and pewter… not used in pipe making?
Dear Tony,
If I go into my jewelry supply shop and ask for german silver or nickle silver I get the exact same thing. It has no silver at all and is composed mostly of copper. It cuts very well with a jewelers saw and behaves nicely when being brazed (soldered).
This is a very similar alloy to that used in silver colored coins. Some pipe makers and metalsmiths however are starting to shy away from using it due to an increasing fear of “nickle allergic reaction”. According to BBC radio, the developers of the new Euro coins are stating that if the coins are taped to the skin for a couple of days to a week, the sweat and oils of the body react to the metal and cause irritation and rashes at the point of contact. DUH!?! Tape any thing to your skin and don’t let air circulate for a few days and tell me what happens. Another of the fears about nickle is the release of toxic fumes. This can happen if you take it to a molten point, but not really in simple brazing. Most metalsmiths I’ve known don’t make a practise of huffing their work. One Amature pipemaker took great pains to raise the alarm that nickle dust may do great damage to the mucus membranes. So if you must work with fabricating nickle silver, wear proper respiratory protection and for the love of God, wash your hands before picking your nose.
To keep your brass from tarnishing and smelling (a bit like garlic and pop cans isn’t it?) you might consider using an auto body acrylic clearcoat. It’s very tough, but it needs to be heat set. This can usually be done with a hairdryer or a couple hours in the sun. Be carefull of your wood parts when doing this of course. Also, nickle alloys tend to get a bit green when laquer is heat set. It can be interesting, but usually more of a frustration.
Sterling, while beautiful, is daunting for it’s price and for the fact that if you screw the tube up while bending it, you’re pretty well sunk and have to start over. Not fun! It’s great if you want to cast your ferules though. Most of the time the alloy is about 92% silver and 8% copper. These days most refineries put in a few “secret ingridients” to aid in and reduce oxidation while melting and casting. These generally burn out and leave the finished casting at the proper ratio of silver to copper. I’ve also heard of and older alloy called Brittaina silver? which has about 95% silver.
This is not to be confused with Brittania metal (85% tin + 2% antimony +6% bismuth) which is the replacement for old (80% lead + 20% Tin)pewter. Neither of these alloys bends very well and both are a bit soft for any sturctural use.
I dont know why nobody uses copper (even for whistles), unless they think the look is too common and it tarnishes too quickly.
Sorry to blather on at such length, but if I like talking about piping, I really like talking about metalsmithing.
Thanks for bearing trough this.
Marc
I agree, though, that I don’t really understand why more copper isn’t used. It’s got a very nice, warm look to it, and a nice feel. I think Sterling, copper, and brass are the nicest. Especially older Sterling with that kind of “used,” matte finish. Classy.
Kevin,
What do you use? I guess there are several ways to bend tubing without it distorting… I’ve heard of filling the tube with sand and then capping the ends w/ lead.
I’ve used a tubing bender jig/tool for hobby use, but that’s less than 3/8" diameter thin wall tube. I don’t know if larger diameter thick wall tubing bends any differently.
Are these heated or cold formed bends?
Lead does work well. It can react with the silver, but only if it’s really overheated. The lead, or any of the low melt metals (zink, antimony,tin, cadmium) can volitize at high temperatures making them corode the silver by eating deep irreversible pits. These can react with gold in the same way. I’ve seen workers in brass instrument factories use soapy water that is then frozen in the tube before bending. It’s amazing that it works.
Their usual bending jig is made from a disc of wood with a semi cirular groove of the same dimension as the tube being bent. Comming from the center of the disc is a long handle with a matching grooved pivot to hold the other side of the tube. The tube is locked into one side of the jig with pegs and the handle bends the tube around it while the groove on the pivot and disc keeps the tube from wrinkling on the inward side of the bend. It’s complicated, but it seems to work for them.
Marc
