Hmm, thanks. The thing I’m really wondering about is how I can make a bore on my little lathe(I’m hoping not to have to get a gun drill). But I’ll figure it out.
Try to get a copy of the pipemaking CD-ROM from DMQuinn. Lots of good stuff there.
While I recommend gun drills to anyone serious about making pipes (or, in fact, anyone just looking to experiment), with sufficient patience it can be done without. DMQ’s article in Iris na bPiobairi/Pipers Review (included on the CD ROM) talks about making simple D-section reamers. Even Joe Kennedy doesn’t use gun drills at all, as it happens (though I think he’s nuts and have told him so 
). I think the gun drills leave a cleaner bore, which I believe is good for drones, but I suppose it matters less for step-drilling a chanter, where the main thing is having good reamers for the final bore.
Bill
I’ve seen some very interesting posts on the reeds & pipemaking page of the “Other” forum (are we allowed to talk about it here?). I’m sure you’ll get all the advice you’ll ever need there. Not to say you won’t get it here either.
Bummer dude. Don’t give up hope.
Sorry to hear it Kelly. But, where there’s a will, there’s a way. 
What kind of lathe do you have…Jet 10x7.. etc…etc…
I’ve bored a chanter blank on a small jet lathe with a chuck, steady rest(kind with roller blade wheels) not the metal point’s… and use the tail stock and tool rest, as a guide for the gun drill/or d-bit and it worked fine..
Does you lathe have a chuck or just a face plate for wood turning..
Here’s the idea, but this guy did’nt use a reasonable steady rest… 
Even the bronze 3-point steady is OK IMO for small diameters at metal lathe speeds, if you’re boring hardwood and use a bit of hard wax (“woodturners’ stick” or carnauba wax) to lubricate. For large diameter stuff like mainstocks I agree you need rollers.
Bill