If it’s a nice clean break, and usually even if it isn’t but you get the axis of the block and the keyway working free, that superglue is a permanent fix. You need to clean the break with alcohol and let it dry to get any oil off the surface but that cyanoacrilate glue will really bond stronger than the wood itself. It also acts as a good solvent for any oil that is in there, and though it won’t be as strong, even oily and dirty glue join will usually hold good and tight as long as there is not much of a gap there. And even then, though there is no filling property at all to the thin superglues, and the gel versions don’t penetrate and hold as well, and perhaps not well enough at all.
That drawing view is as you would cut the regulator, across it’s length, at the mount. You are looking lengthwise down the bore. I use a standard turning square of whatever kind of wood. It is cut lengthwise from the log.
I turn the squares round, after it’s bored. Then I turn the keymaounts all the way around the piece. There are 2 sides of the mounts with the grain running across and 2 sides with the grain running up and down. I pare away the 2 sides with the grain running across and one side with the grain running up and down. This leaves the keymount with the grain runing up and down. I select the regulators for the straightest grain to better facilitate this method. There are very few pieces I can’t use this way.
One thing to consider is the wood’s ‘screw holding’ properties. Snakewood is renowned for holding screws well, without splitting. On the other hand, the stresses in a piece of relatively brittle ebony might be a problem with pin fasteners - might be safer to drill the holes for the pins oversize, then fill with epoxy before setting the pins.
(The pin mounts I’ve seen have all had screw-thread bases).
