Hi, all. A newcomer to all this stuff and planning to buy a flute. I’m playing fife and shakuhachi, both badly, right now. I figure a keyless instrument in D. So what are the pros and cons of two-piece and three-piece instruments? Yes, the three-piece costs more, apparently packs a little more tidily, and the alignment of the finger holes can be tweeked. What other issues might one take into consideration?
Thanks.
It’s the simple questions…innit?
Terry McGee
http://www.woodenflute.com/
http://www.firescribble.net/flute/index.html
Fank gawd he didn’t ask about 1-piece, four-piece, or five-piece flutes, and do the whole plastic Vs wood and big-hole/little-hole Pratteny-Ruddall thing.
Any particular maker in mind?
If you ask about Dixon 2pc or Dixon 3pc for example, the difference between the 2pc and the 3pc is much greater than what you mentioned.
If the flutes are identical other than one is split into 2 and one into 3, the differences are as you might have expected just what you said.
Yes, and with other makers 2-piece vs. 3-piece might mean short foot or long foot. In that case there wouldn’t be a joint between the hands.
And a joint between the hands is worth two in the bush.
There’s also the long-term financial implication of two tenons versus one to consider: You’ll use double the cork-grease on a three-piece than you would on a two-piece, so running costs would effectively be doubled.
I’ve got a ‘5-piece’…have found it useful to be able to monkey with the alignment of left-hand, right-hand and embouchure; so far my ‘best’ playing alignment seems to be that nothing quite lines up! So I’d think the more flexibility there the better.
Dear Mr Gribble,
If I were getting my first Irish flute again
I would get a 2 piece with in line tone holes
(except for the C thumb hole which would need to be customised)
with intention of applying only pipers’ grip.
Yours sincerely,
Pt Talasiga
meaning: if you are going to piper grip you may as well get a cost less, easier to maintain, less susceptible arrangement.
note: I am counting the head pieces as one piece and the body as the other
Hi John,
Unless you have really small hands it won’t make much difference how many pieces your flute comes in (for the reasons mentioned above).
More important is the kind of sound and response you want from a flute (tough that is vastly affected by your embouchure). This, of course, will lead you to the Pratten vs Rudall debate.
Welcome to the board by the way. 
Doc
When trying to decide this very important question in flute performance, I would advise anyone to consult a numerologist. You see, the actual choice between a 2-piece and a 3-piece flute isn’t that easy. There are many factors to consider, such as the day and year that you were born, etc. I’m guessing that any good numerologist would hedge their bets and recommend that you purchase both flutes, just to make sure. It may come down to something as simple as this: on even-numbered days you need to play the 2-piece flute, and on odd-numbered days the 3-piece flute is preferred. It all makes good sense to me. Of course, if you are really stubborn and like to go against all counsel, you might be inclined to do the opposite. I hope that this is helpful. In any case, happy fluting and welcome to the board.
If anyone is having difficulty working out whether Doug is being serious or not, please note that his jokes aren’t very funny.
I hope this helps. 
Thanks, all. I’ve enjoyed all the opinions and links. And I’m happy to have provided the opportunity for such sport. Another transportation option with a multi-sectioned instrument occurred to me: one could run a jewelry chain through the mouthpiece hole, dismantle the flute, fasten the chain, and wear the instrument around the neck! One thing does concern me, though. With so many tendons, wouldn’t there be a risk of tendinitis?
Instruments I’m considering are the Sweetheart Dymondwood “Resonance” model and a Tipple with all the “bells and whistles,” so to speak, that is, the mouthpiece plate and the wedge. And maybe the pebbley pipe.
The Sweetheart is right at the top of my budget for a “first” instrument, so that makes me a little nervous. But I have an old, old rosewood version of their folk fife in D which I dearly love and I had them send one of their new Dymondwood whistles to my brother. He loves it but says it’s making both his girlfriend and cat crazy. The Tipple appeals in that it would be great to own the Roll-Royce of adapted plumbing for less than a hundred bucks.
I have suffered many years from GAS (Guitar Acquisition Syndrome) and have been able to slow its progress and damage by buying “dog in the manger” instruments (used, shopworn, sale, or factory seconds) and then, if necessary, fixing or hot-rodding them. My resonator guitar, for example, was one sad little puppy when I rescued her, but with a new cone properly installed and the finish polished out, she has become a very handsome and mellifluous howler. Alas, a National metal-bodied tricone has has got her hooks into me and my wallet and is trying to move in.
Again, thanks for all the response. Fun!
Well, if it’s adaptability you want, I would definately go with the Tipple. You can wear it as you described, use it to chastise your cat or dog, fix the sink, direct traffic (that’s why I keep one in the car)..and if all else fails, play it.
Seriously, they’re a great way to get started and once you get hooked you can start collecting them in other keys.
If you already have a history of “Acquisition Disorder” you maybe in serious trouble around here.
But seriously - I recommend a Tipple, easy on the budget and very nice to play. And, no matter what other flutes you acquire - and you will - it’s always good to have a flute you can take to the beach or in the pool.