I have a Clarke Original D, and despite blowing through it and shaking the moisture out, it’s starting to develop rust in the seam area.
Are there whistle swabs made to help dry it out when I’m doing playing? Or can one make an effective but simple swab?
thanks,
Baen
The most common solution to your problem is another Clark - once the one that you’re playing is dead 
I use recorder brushes to clean out my whistles when I’m done playing, but I don’t think that would keep a Clarke from rusting ultimately. You could also use the kind of slotted stick that’s used to clean flutes with a soft cloth.
Redwolf
One of my whistle customers gave me the bright idea of using a bamboo chopstick as a swabbing rod. CAREFULLY split the small end with a sharp knife (sheetrock knife is good) for a distance of about 1 1/4". Then you can put a piece of cloth or a gauze pad in the split and the springiness of the bamboo will hold it pretty securely.
That said, I don’t think it will work well in a Clark. That bottom opening is mighty small, and the internal seam rib will make swabbing difficult. I’ve sometimes wondered if you could seal the inside of a Clark with polyurethane or something similar before the rust takes hold, but haven’t bothered playing with it.
I agree that the Clarke’s days are numbered…but I have a few swabs that I use on my wooden whistles, including a dulcimer duster that I love. It is a 2.5 foot long rod covered in suede. the handle end is just a strip of suede folded over the rod,and the other half of the length is more like a feather duster…fringed.
I pass the whole thing through the tube to swab it out, then use the unfringed end in the open end of the headjoint.
I have a second one of these that I use to oil the whistles.
Yes, I thought that getting another one might be the answer–and just hope that it sounds as good as this one, given the manufacturing variability in whistles. I also have a Shaw that I haven’t started playing much yet, but imagine it will meet the same fate? So much for leaving my whistles in my will…
At any rate, lots of good ideas and I’ll try them out. In terms of oiling the inside of whistles, what type do you use? I would imagine something as little toxic as possible?
best,
Baen
Baen, you only need to oil wooden whistles, not metal or plastic. I use an almond oil concoction.
I have two Shaw whistles (E and A). Haven’t played 'em in a while, though I store them in a flannel “sock.” This thread makes me think I should probably check them.
They’re the only whistles I haven’t figured out how to “swab” after playing.
You can use mineral oil inside a metal whistle, to slow down corrosion. Re-apply every couple of months or so.
You may not be able to pass on your Clarkes in your will, but I’ve got a couple of 15+ year old Generations that are still in great shape. If you want one you can keep practically forever, you might want to look at something in a slightly more durable material than rolled tinplate.
Redwolf
For a better made Clarke, look at Jerry Freeman tweaked Shaws.
if it’s rusted, it will still play. (I know trust me…)
Mine sounds fine, and is probably red with rust…
Hmmmm. Mineral oil.
I got that.
Also my high tech solution…although mine’s one of those nasty plastic ones with green and red writing and I just wrap the cloth around the end if t’whistle’s big enough.
Trisha
Mine got caught in a car door and still plays just fine…(after bending it back into shape of course).
I bought one of Jerry’s tweaked Shaws, and really like it. Not ready to give up my Clarke yet, though. It has a certain sweetness and smoothness that I’ve gotten to like, as well as being a fairly quiet whistle. I tried a Generation, but after the Clarke couldn’t get used to the pops and squeaks. Might not have given it enough time, but still think that the Clarke/Shaw sound is what I’ve settled on.
I’m even wondering if the rust building up in the Clarke could be adding to the sound quality? Adding a certain something…