Whistle Reviews

To get back to this subject…I think perhaps we could create a data base of meaningful feedback and comparison of various whistle make and type with agreed upon areas of comparison and criteria along each area. For example:

I. Appearance/Materials/Fit and Finish

II. Physical Comfort

III. Tonal Qualities

IV. Volume

V. High/Low End Balance

VI. Responsiveness

VII. Air Requirements

VIII.Ease of Octave Transition

Rather than a critics corner, this could be a resource for players (esp. newer ones and/or collectors)to get a more rounded and distinct idea of what whistles might be like or would suit them; more descriptive than this one’s better than that one, etc.

BTW, today I messed around with a bunch of high end whistles in the Low G, A and Bflat keys.

Low G - O’Riordan, Copeland, Overton

O’Riordan - Tuneable, black anodized aluminum, nickel silver ferrules, black plastic mouthpiece and fipple. Somewhat smaller and perfectly rounded finger holes with finished yet gripping edges, narrower bore than Overton, round tubing.

Exquisite appearance, best tuning slide ever; very wide arced airway and comfortable mouthpiece.

Very clear, crisp, pure tone, easy to play, light weight, full and bright sound, best high octave of the three, unbeleivable balance between low and high end, easy transitions and air requirements, very difficult to make mistakes. Compares most to the sound of a human voice.

Copeland - Totally different in every way, esp. tonal quality which is full and somehow dark. Some chiff, almost amped resonant undertone. Requires more air. Almost bluesy reverberations. Sounds most like a flute. Easier to slip from high to low octave.

Tuneable brass, with delrin fipple set in brass mouthpiece, raised walls around top airway hole, much narrower arced and less wide airway, also very comfortable mouthpiece, substantial yet not heavy. Also stunning appearance. Some holes a bit bigger and almost elliptical; well finished and good grip.

Overton - One-piece round aluminum with integral mouthpiece and fipple. Wider bore and thicker walled. Finger holes are more like the Copeland. Very narrow and straight windway. Somewhere in between the other two in tonal qualities. Full and edgy; almost wiry or saw-like, like the bow played across fiddle strings somewhat. Air requirements are easy once you get used to it and need diaphragm concentration or can most easily slip from high octave to low. Most volume.

All three whistles have ample volume, are very different one from another, are expertly crafted truly wonderful instruments.

My personal taste orders them O’Riordan, Copeland, Overton.

A Whistles - Schultz Water Weasel, Abell African blackwood

WW - Tuneable grey PVC with red plastic fipple set into PVC mouthpiece. Airway has moderate arc and width and mouthpiece is comfortable. There happen to be no marks on the tubing which some hate, some love, and I don’t care about either way. This is round, wider bore and thicker wall than Abell. Finger holes are well finished with good grip and much bigger than Abell. This is one of the funkiest looking whistles I’ve seen (in a good way - not as in seedy or smelly but as in uniquely low profile cool). It is easy to play, has full round tone, good balance and transition between high and low ends, physically comfortable, easy air requirements, good volume.
This is a moderately priced whistle that blew me away; it’s terrific.

Abell - This is part of a two body one mouthpiece set and I happen to like the Bflat partner better. That said, this is a visually stunning whistle with African blackwood body and fipple and sterling silver mouthpiece and ferrules (one engraved). Perfect fit and finish. Small finger holes that are easy to cover consistently yet more difficult to half hole. The airway is peculiarly (as in all Abells)narrow side to side and the mouthpiece is stubby making it somewhat less comfortable for me than others initially. Some care needs to be taken with the approach as it is easy to miss your mark with air occasionally initially creating an almost no sound. This is chiffy, airy, but with very consistent lovely sweet tone, easy air requirements and transition and balance. It’s hard to describe - almost muted somewhat but a beautiful mellow flutey tone. The mouthpiece takes getting used to, but it’s worth it.

Bflat - Grinter, Schultz Thin Weasel, Abell, Overton (This will be abbreviated; I’m sleepy)

Grinter - Tuneable red lancewood, lancewood fipple and mouthpiece, brass fittings, narrow arced windway, finger holes close to the Abell.

TW - Tuneable Honduran rosewood, stainless steel fittings, widest bore, largest fingerholes, airway very much like the Grinter.

Abell - see above

Overton - see above

All in all - a great bunch of whistles. The three woods are very much alike in tonal qualities and perhaps this runs contrary to the belief that wood has unique character (esp when you consider the above comparison between O’Riordan, Copeland and Overton Low Gs).

Thank you and good night.

Philo

Phil,

You mention that the Abell has a Blackwood fipple (block), was yours a special order? Chris normally uses Delrin for his fipple blocks, even on his wooden whistles.

Loren
P.S. You forgot to mention the O’Riordans Low Whistles should have been mine.

On 2002-08-17 23:14, Loren wrote:
Phil,

You mention that the Abell has a Blackwood fipple (block), was yours a special order? Chris normally uses Delrin for his fipple blocks, even on his wooden whistles.

Loren

Ummm... every Abell I've seen has had a blackwood fipple, but I've only seen three. ? -brett

Phil,
I think that you, along with Doc Joes in a recent thread, have just posted some of the most valuable reviews I have seen here. I just recently realized that there are few “Bad” whistles…just a bunch of different ones. Of course, most of us are unable to compare side by side whistles of the calibre that you are reviewing!!

Thanks for an objective look,
Eric

Brett,

Are you SURE those fipple blocks were Blackwood… :slight_smile: The block on my Abell Eb/D/C set (serial #606 - headjoint and D body manufactured Spring 1998, additional Eb/C bodies manufactured Spring 2001…Chris Abell keeps wonderful records) is absolutely, with out a doubt, Delrin.

The fipple blocks on the other half dozen or so other Abells I’ve handled looked identical to me.Of course, I could be mistaken, one could always ask Chris…

Loren

On 2002-08-18 04:06, vaporlock wrote:
Phil,
I think that you, along with Doc Joes in a recent thread, have just posted some of the most valuable reviews I have seen here. I just recently realized that there are few “Bad” whistles…just a bunch of different ones. Of course, most of us are unable to compare side by side whistles of the calibre that you are reviewing!!

Thanks for an objective look,
Eric

For the most part, I think, people use the words “good” and “bad” when they really mean “I like it” and “I don’t like it”. Good and bad are absolutes which imply that the reviewer has an expert knowledge of the subject. Music and musical instruments are topics in which subjective judgement plays a big part. Not that all subjectivity can or should be avoided. But it is up to the reader to recognize the subjective judgements of a reviewer and take them for what they are, the reviewer’s opinions.
Mike

Loren,
Re: Abell mouthpiece, when he was first making his whistles he did use wood for the fipple block. Not sure when exactly he switched to delrin but rest assured that there are a good many out there with wooden plugs. My original Abell headjoint had a wooden plug (not blackwood though) but he let me trade up for free to a newer one with delrin. Also, I wonder if Phil is equating the word “fipple” with “headjoint” as many folks around here seem to do.

Cheers,
David

Yes David,

I know Chris did at one time (years ago) use wood for fipple blocks. As I recall, your original whistle was made MANY years ago, correct? I also have reason to beleive that Chris has also done it (wooden blocks) occasionally on special order. The reason I asked is that I was under the impression Phil’s (and Brett’s) Abells are not an antiques :laughing: so perhaps one or more were a special order, otherwise the are, in all likelyhood, fitted with Delrin plugs.

Loren

Loren - As you know, I got my Abell set second-hand. The fipple looked so much like the rest of the tubing that I assumed it was blackwood as well. I am now looking at the fipple plug in a new all Delrin Abell and I can’t really differentiate it from the one on my Bflat. I’m used to seeing black delrin, but he uses delrin that looks like blackwood! Not sure, but neither seems to clog; you just may be right. The Bflat is no. 737, if that helps. The blackwood tube is different in color and grain (but not very) from the delrin, but the plugs look identical; another good catch!

I am trying to differentiate between the actual fipple plug and the head joint, as that question was asked.

Regards, Philo

Phil,

Try getting a look at the fipple plug from the bore end, this is a little tricky, but the Delrin looks a bit more “plastic” looking from that side. You can also look at the “edge” of the plug - right where it starts going into the windway, on the blowing side. On mine there’s a bit of a bevel at that spot, and if you look closely and at an angle (from the side) you can see the characteristic minor rippling on the surface of the material that is a common occurance when Delrin has be cut - wood doesn’t tend to have this slightly wavy appearance when worked the same way.

At Serial #737, it’s surely Delrin unless it was some sort of special order, and even then, whistle makers really don’t seem to like using Blackwood for the plug…

I keep meaning to ask Chris about his Delrin rodstock - the finish on the outside of his Delrin whistles has a wonderful finish, not all smooth and slick as I recall.


Loren

[ This Message was edited by: Loren on 2002-08-18 13:16 ]