Would like to try and make a high D whistle with the “low” C hole .. front side …
Do I make it to " C ’ length? If so .. how do I figure out where to place the other 6 holes? I understand the formulas for a normal high D… amd where do I put the 7 th hole from the open end?
Thanks,
Jim
Yes, cut your tube to the necessary length for a C whistle… C will become your new bell note.
Peter Hoekje’s spreadsheet allows calculating seven holes, and so does Pete Kosel’s modified version of the same spreadsheet.
Don’t forget to offset the right pinkie hole by around 45 degrees to the right (assuming you’re right handed).
Oh, and subtract 3/32" from all the hole positions recommended by the spreadsheet… otherwise, your bell note will be a bit flat in relation to the other notes.
Just let your ruler overhang the bell end of the tube by 3/32", then mark the positions recommended by the spreadsheet.
The original formula that all existing tone hole placement calculators are based on was written for footed flutes with two vent holes.
Nobody has yet ported it over 100% accurately for use with instruments that don’t have a vented foot, but subtracting 3/32" from the output fixes the flat bell note… too bad there’s no such quick fix for the embouchre hole position! 
Thanks for the information .. whistles I can play (sort of) …flute .. never got a clean note…
Played a rec***** and liked being able to go down to the low c … but didn’t like the sound.
Well .. if I don’t get a sound I like now.. can only blame myself now LOL!
Thanks again,
Jim
Assuming you’re right handed huh…
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I play left hand down as well … glad to know that there are other “strange” folks out there. 
Jim
I made a Brass body for a generation head with this hole but it was muddy and quiet on low D, but don’t let me put you off, you may have to make the D hole quite large to get a good sound and may be add yet another hole to so that the low C is not to loud.
Good luck
John S
Last whistle I made .. looked like “Bucky Beaver” got hold of it .. pretty it was not .. but sound wasn’t too bad. My hat is off to the pro whistle makers .. have no idea how they can produce such nice products. I guess it goes back to if you got the right tools. I use a cutoff disk and a drill press (later moving on to a reamer for the final hole cuts). Still looked like it has been thrown out the window of a fast moving car and bounced a bit on the pavement. 
Jim
Jim,
In making instruments, one of the important steps to know when using a drill press is know what speed to use with the drill size. The bigger the drill diameter, the slower that drilling speed gets. If you know this, it will help in drilling the holes.
A good belt and disk sander is very useful.
The spacing between the C and D is tricky. It you have big holes, the pinky will require a good stretch, small holes will cause notes to be weak sounding. If you need help with the formula, send me an email.
Well, I’m myself right handed, but play the whistle right over left. I don’t understand how left over right became almost such a “rule” or common thing to do. However, when I pick up a highland bagpipe practice chanter, I find playing it left over right, or, the more common way, to be more comfortable. Obviously two different beasts, and I think I do the switch because the chanter involves the pinky, and my right hand fingers are a little bigger and longer than my left. Just goes to show how different we all are I guess.
This is possibly a silly question, but, why not just make a C whistle and half-hole for the accidentals? I actually learnt on a C whistle, and never had a problem with that concept. Then you’re not stuck with a seven- or nine-holed monster with a crappy bottom end, too.
Just my 2p
Bill Whedon
Serpent Music
I’ve been whistling solid for 2 years now, and I’m just now getting into half-holing. And I mean barely getting into it. Traveling through Blarney off of Chieftains 9 has some half-holing (for the whistle anyways) in it, just one maybe two notes, (on the D) it’s tricky enough for me. And that’s a slow tune. I believe there’s an F natural in that particular tune, and getting an accurate and consistant F natural has been tough! For me anyways. My point is, half-holing can be a little more difficult for some than others. If you can do it, and do it good, then more power to ya. It boggles my mind when I hear of expert whistle players who half-hole the C-natural in the upper octave at blazing speeds… Crazy. Awesome yes, but crazy. But then again, that’s probably why they’re called Experts…
Ever try to do an F# roll, with the F# half holed? Your approach is OK for slower tunes, but for faster ones it’s not really practical.
On my D+ whistles, I just make the whistle C length, put the bottom hole where the low C belongs (offset), and put the rest of the holes where they normally go for a D, measuring from the top. Near as I can tell, it works just fine. The bottom C would stand to be just a tad stronger but it’s not bad and you really don’t need that note very often at all. I could voice them to strengthen the C, but the upper notes would suffer.
Ok .. following you .. but “where” does the low C belong… measurement please .. from the bottom?
Jim
Would also appreciate approximate hole placements for high EB as well as the note for each hole.
Jim
fear not, you are in good company:
Mary Bergin
Mike McGoldrick
Sigh … tis true that they play like me … now .. if only I were playing like “them” 
Jim
Removeable extension on a Waltons. Plays C# or C natural. Offset is adjustable for little finger. Compared to another Walton. Removed 1/2’’ from tone tube. Extend with .46875 od brass tube 1 3/4’’ length. Center of 1/4’’ hole is 15/32’’ from end. Edge of 1/4’’ hole is about 1/4’’ from end of tone tube. Tweaked fipple to support extra length of new whistle.
[quote="Jim Wright Ok .. following you .. but “where” does the low C belong… measurement please .. from the bottom?
Jim[/quote]
Not to give you a short answer, but I put the hole where the lowest hole on one of my C whistles goes. With my design, that ends up being 1.75" up from the foot (I think), but that’s only for mine. Other whistles will vary, possibly a LOT.
Not to give you a short answer, but I put the hole where the lowest hole on one of my C whistles goes. With my design, that ends up being 1.75" up from the foot (I think), but that’s only for mine. Other whistles will vary, possibly a LOT.[/quote]
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Thank you … I think … the way you came with all of the disclaimers .. would think you once sold used cars… “Your mileage may vary ..greatly”
Jim
Get Peter Hoekje’s spreadsheet here: http://homepages.bw.edu/~phoekje/acoustics/mahome.html
Get Pete Kosel’s modified version here: http://www.cwo.com/~ph_kosel/dflute.zip
Either of those will allow you to calculate 7-hole tubes… just depends on whether you prefer using metric or imperial measurements.
Get Daniel Bingamon’s TWCALC here: http://www.tinwhistles.us/twcalc.htm
Daniel’s 6-hole calculator is very well done, and has lots of features not found in others… but it won’t calculate 7-hole tubes.
All the guesswork and headaches are unnecessary when making whistle tubes… Arthur Benade’s formula works extremely well, even though the modified versions do still have a couple of bugs in them.
If you’d like to modify the temperament of your tuning, get CERTZ or CENTS1 here: http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/cents_to_hertz_calculator.htm
Seriously, tubes aren’t that difficult to make.
It takes a good bit of experimntation to find the optimal formula for cross-fingering, but you don’t need to worry about that with a 7-hole tube… just go with a comfortable spacing, and be mindful of the local cutoff frequency.