uilleann pipes plan

i am interested in finding plans for uilleann pipes chanter in D with keys, regulators,…
thanks in advanse
Best regards
Patrice :boggle:

Alan Ginsberg offers plans for D and C set on this webpages … no idea about quality and usability.
http://www.hgt.gwynedd.gov.uk/UilleannPipes/TheAmateurInstrumentMaker.htm

http://members.aol.com/GerRaith/index.htm

http://www.bagpipedrawings.webbyen.dk

:wink:

Also see Wilbert Garvin’s book from NPU, “Irish Bagpipes - Their Construction and Maintenance”. Neither the Garvin book nor the Ginsberg plans are entirely correct or usable, as they don’t give accurate bore dimensions, but they provide a basic outline of a UP set. See also the CD-ROMS from the Sean Reid Society, available from NPU.

djm

Tim Britton sells accurately measured plans for his chanter design. I’d reccomend the Sean Reid society CD Roms, though. They have some great historic sets with accurate measurements.

Dionys

Wilberts book is perfectly workable and is again an example of people “hearing something” and going along with the patois.
How do I know its workable? 1st hand experience,thats how.Ye have to walk the walk to know what youre talking about.
Liam

Uilliam, I avoided the Garvin book after studying it and finding no bore dimensions provided except for the top and bottom of the chanter. By studying the Sean Reid CDs you’ll see that the interior bore is never a straight line. I’m curious as to the results of the full set you have made based solely on the Garvin book.

djm

Everything ye need to know is there in Wilberts book.
Pge 17 Chanter Top 5mm bottom 13mm
Pge 19 Drones all bore measurements
Pge21 Tenor Reg top 3.5mm bottom 9.5mm
Pge22 Baritone Reg Top 4mm bottom 10,5mm
Pge 23 Bass reg Top4.5 and 10mm bottom 10 and 16.5mm

to find the conical bore is a simple extrapolation

eg Tenor Reg

length 280mm less throat 10mm =270mm

Bottom bore less top Bore 9.5mm less 3.5mm =6mm

270mm divided by 6mm= 45mm

therefore the conical bore ratio is 1:45

that is for every 45mm the bore will increase by 1mm.That is the size ye will require for the reamer.

eg Chanter

Length 362mm less 10mm= 350mm
Top 5mm from bottom 13mm = 8mm
352mm divided by 8mm = 44mm

Conical Bore therefore is 1:44

ye will have to remain curious about the full set because I never mentioned a full set.!!
My friend Jim and I made the Chanter and Tenor regulator just to try it and it worked fine.Why shouldn’t it?
Is this some sort of test??

Wilbert has been around the piping scene a lot lot longer than many of yous and it would be nice if ye stopped knocking his book for no good reason .If ye apply a bit of savy the book is fine and I think an apology to Wilbert,who is a friend of mine would not go amiss.

Like I said earlier to all ye wannabes out there try to walk the walk before ye talk the talk.
The above is meant to be of help and not start a flame war
Slán agat
Uilliam

Walk before you talk? Either that or know what you’re talking about. The majority of chanter designs are not a perfectly tapered conical design. All one has to do is reference the Sean Reid CD ROMS, David Daye’s set of measurements of classic chanters or pretty much anyone else’s chanter design to see that.

Wilbert’s book is useful if you don’t want to look through the vast online resources, or if you want a basic understanding of how the pipes are put together and/or made. I myself own the book, but that doesn’t mean I’d reccomend making a chanter exactly from his plans.

Dionys

Dionys ye are quite rude aren’t ye.
What are YOU talking about!!
The majority of chanters may not be ,granted,but that does not mean that ye cannot achieve a pretty well tapered conical design if ye try!!
It will depend of course on your reamers how smooth ye can get the internal bore.I used professional Oboe Reamers and it cut through like butter.It all depends on the tools ye have to start with.

Anyways why are ye having a pop at me??Did ye not agree with the extrapolation?Have ye tried making a chanter from his book?Are your chanters so brilliant?or are ye just another prima donna,God help us,who has just got to be one better than everyone else.???

As I said I didn’t want to start a flame war and the posting was meant to be helpful but it seems that it is now upsetting the sensibilities of the likes of yersel.Well look elsewhere for somewhere to have a poke at,I do not intend to post again in the foreseeable future.
I give up with this board.It seems to me that ye are more interested in the friggin pedantics rather than the semantics ie what sort of ferrule should I use,what sort of smell does the wood have,how pretty are those pics of your pipes etc ad nauseum,ad infinitum.
My 11 year old pupil could probably run rings around yous all across the pond because he concentrates on the music and technique not the flaming periphal crap which seems to occupy a lot of your time.
Slán agat
Uilliam
:tomato:

For starters, you might try building a penny chanter. If going for wood, the reamer now on eBAY (based on Tim Britton’s chanter) would give you a tremendous assist.

I’m rude? :laughing:

Yes, I’ve made a chanter with Garvin’s exact conical measurements. It’s not a matter of if you can make a perfectly tapered cone. That’s obviously possible. I have any number of reamers that can do the job and leave a very smooth internal bore. It’s a matter of if you want a straight conical bore, and honestly most chanters, modern as well as older, are not an unmodified, constant taper. There’s a reason for it, and you can hear it when stacking up a chanter made to Garvin’s specifications and that of a maker who strays away from the perfectly constant conical bore.

There’s another thread on this somewhere re: Garvin’s book. Read that if you’re interested in hearing more about it.


Dionys

P.s. Quite honestly, you seem to focus quite a bit on the flaming peripheral crap. I guess “projection” doesn’t only apply to the sound of your instrument.

Joseph, please stop now. Uilliam does post some useful information from time to time, and has been helpful in answering some of my questions in the past. I’m sorry that he seems to have taken the bit on this topic, but let’s not egg him on any further. He’s clearly taking us far too seriously. Slalom … I mean, Salami … er, Shalom.

djm :smiley:

Ack!!! Okie Dokie :smiley:

Uilliam, my appologies.

Joseph, please stop now. Uilliam does post some useful information from time to time, and has been helpful in answering some of my questions in the past. I’m sorry that he seems to have taken the bit on this topic, but let’s not egg him on any further. He’s clearly taking us far too seriously. Slalom … I mean, Salami … er, Shalom.

djm

May I second that? Bill & I may have our differences on some issues, :smiley: …but he’s a highly knowledgable piper, and a valuable contributor to the knowledge base of this forum. FWIW, I like the Garvin book too, and recommended it to Patrice when he posted the same question on Googles
rmmb.

Do they fight over there like we do ??

Can we keep the original topic going? When Patrice posted this question I decided to keep checking on this one.

I have been very interested in this subject and have considered purchasing the Ginsburg plans for quite some time know, but I would like to have All of the chanter bore dimensions. Are there other good sources besides what has been mentioned.

I know, If you have a really good set of pipes you can measure those. But you want to start with measurements of a Really good set.

Thanks

Yeesh! Well, half the time I can’t understand a bloody thing ulliam writes anyway! It’s like dual-personalities…one minute pretty good english - the next, some weird ultra-brouge that doesn’t make much sense at all. I can’t tell if he’s helping, swearing, or doing Andean throat singing! :laughing:

Yeah, it’s a jab - meant in good fun. Treat it as such.

With no standard for Irish pipes as regards to tuning, chanter design, etc, many people out there are happy with different results. It’s not surprising that people would try to build the Garvin set since there are not many other instructions out there.

Some people are disappointed with the Garvin book since it leaves out the complexity but it is a good starting point. Alain Froment spent 360 hours making a C set recently. Try and get that into a book or set of pages of instructions.