In my ongoing effort to fathom the mysteries of tweaking pennywhistles, I’ve discovered (probably rediscovered, as it seems that everything’s been discussed here already) another little tweak that’s easy to do and can make quite a difference.
If the bell note (and usually the one above it) are weak/unstable, slightly beveling the bottom edge of the windway end where it enters the window seems to make a big difference in some cases.
I do this by pulling off the mouthpiece and inserting an exacto knife through the tube end of the mouthpiece so that the exacto blade edge can be used to gently scrape a bevel (or enlarge the existing bevel) onto the windway bottom. It only takes a tiny bevel to clean up those two notes – just 1/32 inch, sometimes.
The logic for trying this was based on a comment by Dave Parkhurst in a previous thread, that moving the fipple block towards the windcutter blade favors the upper register; moving it away from the windcutter blade favors the lower register. Adding the bevel seems to create the same kind of result (favoring the lower register/strengthening, stabilizing the lowest notes) that might be expected from moving the fipple plug back slightly. However, I’ve seen no compromise to the quality of the upper register from doing the bevel tweak, and a fairly dramatic improvement to the quality of the lowest two notes.
Best wishes,
Jerry
Edited to add udate: This seems to work on some brands and not others. It worked great on a Walton’s and a couple of Sweetones, but not on a Generation (seemed to make the Gen worse instead of better).
I put this update further down the string, but thought it should be included here to make sure no one misses it.
Update: This seems to work on some brands and not others. It worked great on a Walton’s and a couple of Sweetones, but not on a Generation (seemed to make the Gen worse instead of better).
Moving the plug face towards or away from the labium edge is an adjustment of the “cutoff frequency” or the frequency that the instrument “flips” to the next mode/octave. Tuning the plug on the g’ note(for a d’ whistle) is the best balance between the first 2 modes. The third mode is the problem with cylindrical bores because the 3rd mode/scale shifts each note only a 5th above the notes on the 2nd scale,not a full octave. This causes problems because of tonehole placement.
Better oscillation of the air reed(voicing)at low pressure can be achieved by making the labium edge less sharp. The object of the labium edge is to cause the airstream to oscillate above and below,not to evenly split it in two parts. Here is a good diagram of this.
strengthening the bell notes can be better achieved if you slightly reduce the bore end hole. This will cause a slight flattening of the note,but increased wind pressure will even it out. This “tweak” will give better overall “acoustic coupling” at the voicing for increased performance.
On a thin metal whistle use a needle-nose pliers to slightly bend the bore end inward. I suggest beeswax or elmers glue for a trial on other instruments before more permanent methods.
Yes Vinny,it’s the acoustic NUT you remember but I don’t think I deserve the “Genius” title. I’m very flattered that you remember me Vinny! Thanks for the “welcome home”.
I’m fine,thank you,and I’ve been busy with life and writing my book. I hope everything is OK with you and yours and I’m looking forward to catching up with the gang.
Another tweak that will work and help out with the bell note is to enlarge or spread the tube at the “bell end”.
What I have noticed as far as the bevel is concerned, is that I have tried to ‘save’ a few mouthpieces that would otherwise have gone in the trash using that same method. I didn’t realize it would work on regular mouthpieces… very cool! It works most of the time, and I use those mouthpieces for “class whistles” or just ones to keep around. What it’s doing is basically “lowering” the plug a little, lining up with the blade just a tiny bit differently. Let’s the air “spill downward” a little before hitting the blade.
I have also noticed however, that you have to take extra time warming up, and need to clear the windway more often, because the condensation will build up on that bevel and sort of ‘return’ the plug to it’s original state… does that make sense? Different plastics and materials though… the walton’s may not have that problem.
Ok, let’s suppose you have a clarke or shaw type whistle and you can’t move the fipple block, and the gap is already bordering on too large. Any way to help the upper register? I’m considering a bit of silver or black model paint right on the blade edge. Or possibly a shim on the block to bring it out just a bit. The whistle was fantastic when I got it, but as the block picked up moisture, the high notes got harder to hit.
Ps. I love tweaking as much as biting my fingernails. In other words, I can’t stop, even when I go too far and my fingers bleed.
I’ve learned that what determines whether beveling the block on a plastic headed whistle works or ruins the whistle is where the soundblade is positioned in relation to the windway floor.
Sighting into the whistlehead through the beak, if there’s much daylight under the soundblade, you can’t bevel the block. Ideally, there should be only a sliver of daylight under the soundblade on Generation type whistleheads, but they don’t make many of them that way. (Apparently, they did make more of them that way before they changed the design in the early 1980’s.)
I bevel the block on every whistle I tweak, but it’s only possible because I laminate a thickness of plastic to the bottom of the soundblade and rework the ramp so the soundblade is repositioned relative to the windway floor.
Good thing you tell me!
Thanks for the “welcome home”.