Thanks for all replies, tips and warnings. Your input is more than valued, I’m just still at the decision stage if I want to start whistlemaking.
I have worked with wood and (very little) with metal before, but I did never turn wood or even come near a lathe before. I thought these things were very big, expensive and needed a room of their own… Maybe I should find someone who has one and can show me the basics. I wouldn’t even know how to attach the piece that I want to work on to the thing that turns it.
The best source for training and access to a lathe is your local high school(if you live in America). I have no clue about availability in other countries.
Bat your eyelashes, give the shop teacher a pretty smile and say “Excuse me sir, can you show me how to work this thingie?” I bet he would be happy to “give you the basics”(te he).
You can read-up on using a lathe at the library and there are many small quiet electric lathes that can sit on your kitchen table. These are “big enough” for making whistles and recorders in jointed sections. Here is one modified for use with a Dremel Rotary Tool
Yes, I made a mistake. The correct formula IS (L + W)/2. I’m sorry for this mishap. Please forgive me. I will “edit” the other post.
As for the 2nd question: Calculating conoidal taper is tricky(for a short post!) An optimum bore diameter for a key frequency is calculated and then an optimum bore for the next next highest octave.
These two bore diameters are “averaged” and applied to the 1/2 wavelength calculations for an “equivilent” narrow bore diameter in the key desired. This leaves some variation in conoidal shape up to the designer and each truncated conoidal bore “key” will have a slightly different angle.
The object is to compress the spacing between tonehole centers and match the “nodes” of the upper register to the lower, at the same time decrease the velocity of the aircolumn in the second register to nearly match that of the fundametal. In short, decrease the 2nd register’s “theoretical borelength” slightly and eliminate “flat pitch”.
This is the best explaination I can give without a string of complex mathematic equations. Empirical(trial and error)methods from “ball-park” measurements work well with this and careful measurements of Recorders will enlighten the seeker. I would give such measurements, but this would be copyrite infringment.
I’m more than happy to share what I know Jerry. I remember when I was a we whistlemakin’ lad! Oh the stories I could tell! If I had only survived, tsk tsk.
It took me many years to DIG the information out of evey library and contact, and if I can help another “enthusiast” it would do my heart good.
Please feel free to e-mail me Jerry (or anyone else for that matter) if you wish to share information on acoustics or whistle making.
Don’t have enough.