Hi all, I’ve been lurking for a while now. I thought I’d pick some brains for some help. I’d like to replace the thread on the joints of my Seery with something thicker and a little more robust. I was wondering the best way to proceed. For instance, what is the best thread to use? how many layers of lapping? and the best way to secure the thread end when complete? Also are there any tricks for properly appying the thread so as to make the joint airtight and smooth.
Thanks all,
Corin
I’ll admit I don’t know what’s traditional for flute but what works on Highland Pipes probably isn’t too much different.
Using a thick, linen thread (hemp in piper lingo) you would want to wax it with black cobblers wax so that it’s nice and sticky. Using a couple half-hitches to secure it you begin to wind it around the tenon, keeping good tension as your wrap. You only want to wax the first layer and if the tenon is threaded don’t wind it into the threads, wind it across them diagonally. Wrapping the hemp into the threads can cause the hemp to turn on itself making it very difficult to pull the joints apart.
Wrap until the tenon fits snug enough to be very stable but not take a lot of strain to remove it. Use a couple more half-hitches to secure the hemp. It’s common practice to apply beeswax to keep moisture out. You’ll find the hemp expands and contracts and you’ll either remove or add hemp in order to keep the tenon fitting just right.
Looking forward to read other folks’ methods.
Cheer,
Aaron
I’ve been seeing a bit of use of synthetic (nylon, maybe?) thread, lately -usually red, for some reason. I imagine that applying beeswax or cork grease to the wrapped tenon would still be a good idea.
David Migoya recommended that I use artificial sinew on my antique Metzler flute. Its is available at most leather and some craft shops. Works great for me.
The best instructions I’ve seen on re-wrapping thread joints can be found here:
http://www.flutes.fsbusiness.co.uk/tenon.html
Polyester thread is good because it doesn’t absorb moisture. I sometimes use a bit of fine silk thread for the final-fit wrappings, the thread that you want to be able to add or take off as need be to fine-tune the fit.
You may not need to unwrap ALL the thread existing, take off the least amount possible. And then you can rebuild from there. If it’s a small amount to be added and I don’t have time, I’ll use waxed dental floss. if it’s a bit more to be added then I’ll pre-wax some thread (see below) and then add it on. The wax should keep the tail end of the thread matted down so it doesn’t move or unwind on you. You lap it until you get a snug (tenon/socket) fit. Just check the fit of the socket as you go. Especially for the last layers of lapping, I like a fine thread cause it seems to apply more evenly and I can sort of ‘fine tune’ the fit (along the idea that the thinner the thread the smoother the fit). Lastly, small segments of thread are added to one end or the other of the tenon to eliminate any wobbling and to get a snug fit of the socket over the tenon. The wax is the thing that keeps the thread in place and won’t allow it to unwind. I’ve only had to add or subtract small segments of thread and haven’t had the need to redo any tenons in a very long time (10+ years). Once it’s done it’ll last, except for some fine tuning every once in a while. I carry chapstick and dental floss in my flute case for emergencies.
Even when the thread is in place, I’ll spot check the tenon before playing and rub on some more wax if I feel it needs some. Just a quick dab of chapstick for goodluck - the tunes always sound better. 
Wax:
I picked up a o-ring from the hardware store, the thing that plumbers use to seat a tiolet and seal it to it’s pipe. I melted it so it became soft and store it in an old coffee can. I have a brick of hard bees wax and sometimes I mix the two for a really thick wax. The wax not only waterproofs but acts as a “filler” in and amongst the thread and provides for a really snug socket/tenon fit - no wobble. Hope this was helpful.
Hi all,
Thanks for the advice. I added some thread, and now the flute definitely sounds better and is easier to play. I’m sure there was a little air leakage.
Corin